I have a trick for this as this occasionally happens to me: take 2 regular wide rubber bands, wrap one around the atomizer and the other around the top cap of your mod. I have large hands, so I completely wrap the rubber bands to the end, so there is a disk of rubber that I can grab on to. The rubber bands have great traction to both the metal and to human hands, so much torque can be generated without scratching your gear. This basically works like the round sheets of rubber used to help open stubborn jars. The juice control on my Kayfun 4 sometimes getting stuck open/closed and this trick has prevented it from becoming an expensive paperweight.
I don't have a Lemo, but I know the body is mostly glass and I'm not sure how much metal there is on the base to wrap a rubber band. This will work on glass but, of course, caution must be used to not shatter it.
I find plain rubber bands work the best. I had high hopes for vape bands as they are the perfect size, but they probably contain silicone and provide no traction.
Also, you should be able to find scratch free pliers online; I believe someone in the Kayfun 4 thread was using them to get their juice control unstuck. Unfortunately, that thread is monstrous and it was December or January when this was posted, so it will be quite difficult to find.
Edit: Here you go: Tamiya Model Craft Tools Non Scratch Pliers 74061. These are for removing the flywheel on model nitro engines without scratching them and should work perfectly for removing stuck threads on our gear. I didn't provide a link because out of respect for Dave, but these are easy to find online.
Good luck!
Another edit: With my ELAs, I find if I have the hybrid center post really snug to the atomizer's positive post, I must loosen said hybrid post BEFORE removing the atomizer. I believe the hybrid center post can put pressure on the treads and make them mate extremely tightly and causing a ton of friction between them, so this pressure must be relieved before unthreading the atomizer.
Hope this helps.