What am I doing wrong?

[mustangii]

I have been building coils for my Kraken clone, but can't seem to get it right. If I'm using my TMAX I can build a coil out of 32 gauge wire and get great vapor and flavor. But on a mechanical mod I can't seem to build a coil with anything smaller than 20 gauge that will last over 2 hits. I am using 500 mesh.
edm

 

[mrdeltoid]

I'm not sure i get what you're saying. Are you experiencing dry hits?

 

[Bad Ninja]

If you are getting hot spots and shorts, build and install the coil first then install the wick.
Roll hollow straws, and torch them before installing.

 

[mustangii]

with 26 or 28 gauge the coils pop and burn out. I gave up and am using 3mm ekowool, with 26 gauge wire, works like a charm now.
edm

 

[TheOnyxEgg]

You're saying that your coil pops on a mech when using 26 or 28 awg with a mesh wick?

Only time I've ever done that, there has been a short between the coil->mesh->atty causing the resistance to be way lower than intended. This is why carefully pulsing out all of the shorts on a mech is important.

I'm use 28awg on mesh with a mech almost exclusively and that's the only time I've had a coil pop.

 

[WattWick]

If your coil pops, you may want to check the tension just where the coil jumps to the center post. Too tight - you get a hotspot that can't be sorted and is likely to pop your coil if you try to.

 

[MsLoud]

I know I'm not an expert at gennys but dayum...I bought a AGA-t4 cause I loved the look on my Celtic P3 but for the life of me I can not get rid of the hot leg coming off the center post. I have re-coiled 2 time to make sure if wasn't my coil. Wicked up perfectly with 400 mesh...I fold a tiny fold at both ends after torching then free hand roll..never have an issue with wicking of the mesh but coils pisss me off! I have tried 28g and 30g - hate 30g BTW - 4/5 wrap.

Any insight or are AGAs as bad as I have heard...

 

[WattWick]

Haven't tried the T4. I think it's the difficulties of the T2 people refer to when they badmouth the Aga. At least I am.

You could try cheating by pulling the wick towards the center post. Not really cheating if the gap is significant...

Or you could... how to explain this...

Try wrapping the topmost coil halfway around the wick to give it a curve - undo the half-wrap - then fasten it to the center post. That way - once you fasten it, it will go from the middle of the wick to the center post instead of off the side of the wick. Not sure if I would understand that if it was me reading it...

Or you may just have a hotspot forming (after you fill the tank) where the wire leaves the coil.

These are just general ideas as I haven't tried the T4 myself. Hope someone comes along to get you sorted.

 

[MsLoud]

Exactly..where the wire leaves the coil! Hrm, well I just don't understand. When I pulse it on my mech, the coil is fine...I place the coil then slide my mesh through - that's when the hot leg starts. How I have always done my coils. Maybe I'll try wrapping the coil around the mesh first. Sigh, I don't have as good luck with that method

 

[maxd]

try lower numbered mesh, like higher number -> worst liquid supply

picture might help to help more

 

[TheOnyxEgg]

When you say you pulse it on a mech and everything is fine, is this before or after you've inserted the mesh wick?

It really sounds to me like you're getting a short between the coil->mesh->deck. Like I mentioned earlier, the only time I've ever had a coil pop in any of my gennies it's been due to a short of some sort. I typically use 28 or 30 gauge wire with coils that are ~1ohm on mechs and rarely run in to issues with popping a coil.

If you're getting a hot leg between the wick and the positive post, it has nothing to do with wicking so changing the mesh type likely won't help fix the problem. FWIW, I've always used 400 or 500 mesh and have rarely had issues with it not supplying liquid fast enough.

 

[Dieseler]

Ditto to what the above poster said .
You are getting a short .