VaporShark rDNA 40 Question for New Guy!

[Hayezb]

Hello!

Fairly new to the more advanced vaping. I started with an MVP and over the past couple months have been using my smok Fury mech mod and loving it so far, but want to try something new! I've been looking at the VaporShark rDNA 40 and was planning on picking one up locally this week. I've been building coils for my Kayfun and Orchid without a problem, but want to try dripping on a VaporShark!

My two main questions are:

1.) Do you have to use nickel wire or is this just when you are in the temperature adjustment mode?

2.) What is an ideal ohm level to drip on this VaporShark and what are your preferred settings?

Thanks!

 

[nyiddle]

Hello!

Fairly new to the more advanced vaping. I started with an MVP and over the past couple months have been using my Smok Fury mech mod and loving it so far, but want to try something new! I've been looking at the VaporShark rDNA 40 and was planning on picking one up locally this week. I've been building coils for my Kayfun and Orchid without a problem, but want to try dripping on a VaporShark!

My two main questions are:

1.) Do you have to use nickel wire or is this just when you are in the temperature adjustment mode?

2.) What is an ideal ohm level to drip on this VaporShark and what are your preferred settings?

Thanks!

1) You need to use nickel wire in order to gain access to the temperature limitation settings. Without nickel wire, there's no way for the DNA40 to read the temperature of your coils. The functionality w/ Kanthal is identical, only you don't get the temp control.

2) Well... Ideal ohm level kind of comes down to personal preference in most cases. A major issue people have been experiencing with this nickel wire is that it's non-resistant wire, compared to Kanthal, which is resistance wire. Or rather, to confuse you more, there is no such thing as "non-resistant" wire, all wire has resistance, but the difference in resistance per foot between Kanthal and Ni200 is INSANE. Kanthal is about 8.4 ohms per foot, while Ni200 is about .6 ohms per foot.

So this means that naturally, your Ni200 coils will be DRASTICALLY lower ohms than your Kanthal coils, and there's not much you can really do about it, it's just the nature of the wire. This is why most Ni200 builds (even at something like 14-wraps) still come out to ~.18 ohms. The positive thing about this and the DNA40 though, is that you have 40 watts at your disposal, and it's adjustable. Firing a .18 ohm coil on an unregulated mech mod would be problematic for a few reasons (even ignoring the whole "going over your amp limit" thing), the primary reason being that 4.2v to a .18 ohm coil is nearly 100 watts (which, for me, is just way too hot). Being able to adjust the wattage/voltage means that you can dial-in an appropriate-temperature vape, despite the low resistance coil.

I haven't used a DNA40 myself, but I've done a fair bit of research on them/Ni200. From what I've read, the DNA40 currently has some rather serious flaws. Evolv keeps dumping out these large batches of boards with issues in them. I'd wait at least a month or two (maybe get in on the post-christmas sales) before investing in one, for the sole reason of giving them more time to work out the kinks.

Hope that helps. Welcome to ECF.

 

[Woofer]

Vaporshark rDNA 40 + Magma RDA = heavenly vape for me!

Coil is 28 guage nickel, 9 wraps, spaced coil 3mm ID wicked with rayon (cellucotton brand) about 0.17 ohms, I run between 16 to 20 watts depending on my mood and juice. Exact ohms are not that critical with the DNA 40 just stay in the recommended range and you'll be fine, watts and temperature limiting define the vape.
The DNA 40 is happy if your Ni coil is 0.10 or more ohms. Dual coils in Ni, I dunno...

The magma is rock solid on the DNA 40, not all toppers are. The DNA needs a stable connection to work in TP mode.
I've had no problems with the board, bought one on pre-release Oct 14 and another yesterday.
Hope this helps and remember YMMV

 

[Hayezb]

Thanks for the replies!

I'm going to order some nickel wire, doing my builds on kanthal right now.

I absolutely love my Orchid for daily use and have it running at .51 ohms right now and it's hitting like a champ! I've finally mastered my wicking so I can run max VG with no dry hits at all. Bigger clouds and better taste then my mech for sure.

I went out and bought a Nimbus clone for cheap just to start practicing my drip builds. Wow. Far and away the most vapor I've been able to produce. I'm still tweaking some things but I'm running it on .5-.6 ohms ( the reading varies on my VS for some reason after hits ) but the flavor and clouds are unreal! It's not as practical as my Orchid, but when I'm at work it's my go-to.

As long as I stay above .15 ohms with Kanthal I'm good, right?

Still have a lot to learn but this has turned into a hobby for me and I love it. Not to mention it got me away from cigs...

 

[Hayezb]

Vaporshark rDNA 40 + Magma RDA = heavenly vape for me!

Coil is 28 guage nickel, 9 wraps, spaced coil 3mm ID wicked with rayon (cellucotton brand) about 0.17 ohms, I run between 16 to 20 watts depending on my mood and juice. Exact ohms are not that critical with the DNA 40 just stay in the recommended range and you'll be fine, watts and temperature limiting define the vape.
The DNA 40 is happy if your Ni coil is 0.10 or more ohms. Dual coils in Ni, I dunno...

The magma is rock solid on the DNA 40, not all toppers are. The DNA needs a stable connection to work in TP mode.
I've had no problems with the board, bought one on pre-release Oct 14 and another yesterday.
Hope this helps and remember YMMV

Is there a huge difference in authentic vs clones with RDAs? I always prefer to get the authentic product, but if I can get a clone for $25-$30 and it hit the same I may as well save the money.

 

[Lova]

Is there a huge difference in authentic vs clones with RDAs? I always prefer to get the authentic product, but if I can get a clone for $25-$30 and it hit the same I may as well save the money.

You could get one RDA from Youde,which produces the Igo series, really good rda's for their price range + they're authentic.

Or if you like cloud chasing +a looser draw, either Doge RDA which is $29.90 from vapordna or the mutation X which is about $35

 

[mstephens0500]

Does anyone know where I can get a Vapor Flask DNA 40 right now? The places I've checked are all out of stock.

 

[dems86]

I have a VaporShark rDNA 40 and finally got around to ordering some nickel wire two days ago. I'm hoping it gets here by Friday so I can spend some time getting used to building with it, as I heard it is quite a bit softer than Kanthal, and at 28ga even more so than the 24ga/26ga I usually build with. I am seriously dying to finally give the temperature control a go though, anticipation is overwhelming haha.

 

[Hayezb]

Does anyone know where I can get a Vapor Flask DNA 40 right now? The places I've checked are all out of stock.

Drive up to Mountain Oak in Tennessee

 

[nyiddle]

As long as I stay above .15 ohms with Kanthal I'm good, right?

Assuming a 20A battery, you're looking at .22 ohms being the lowest you'll safely wanna go. Below that and you're demanding more amps than your battery is rated to supply, which might not result in a catastrophic failure, but why take the risk?

Is there a huge difference in authentic vs clones with RDAs? I always prefer to get the authentic product, but if I can get a clone for $25-$30 and it hit the same I may as well save the money.

I think the difference with RDA's is the same as with any clone vs. authentic. Definitely a matter of the manufacturer.

The Doge (authentic) is only about 30 bucks, mutation X too. Also, the Infinite Tobh clones are really good quality, and <20$ in some places.