Rewiring The Bolt

[yuttynutt]

First I would like to thank Nomoreash for explaining to me how to do this so all credit goes to Nomoreash.


I had read alot about how the bolt had razor thin wiring and could probably not handle 6v vaping, so I really wanyted to change the wires. I am not the most mechanically inclined person so I really wanted to find someone to do it for me. I ran across a classified where Nomoreash was selling their kicked Bolt and quickly pm'ed asking how to do it the response was quick and very detailed again thank you Nomoreash. Now on to the tutorial: Remember this is just educational if you try this it is at your own risk. Side note: The Bolt only uses 2 wires one from the 510 connector-horn switch and one from horn switch-battery connector apparently the body of The Bolt is the ground.

First you will need some things: A smok Bolt, A horn switch, A 510 sealed connector(optional), 20-24AWG wire (I used 22), hot glue, solder and soldering iron.

So the first thing I did was pull out the plastic bottom with the battery connector.


When I did this the wire broke away from the connection see how thin it is.

Next I gutted it and since I was going to replace everything I wasn't worried about hurting any of the connections so I scraped everything out pretty aggressively with a pocket knife, I also forgot to take an after stripped out pic sorry.

Now if you are going to leave the connector you will want to push the center pin out to solder your new wire to it(also do this if you are planning to use a new connector). If you are going to change the connector all I can say is good luck, the original is a pain to get out most of my time was spent on this. I didn't want to drill it out so I stuck the largest screwdriver I had into the underside of the connector and hammered it out(easier said than done).

Next solder your new wire to the center pin.

 

[yuttynutt]

Next solder your second wire to the battery connector.

After that push your pin with the wire back into your connector and run the wire through the switch hole do the same with the battery connector then attach the wires to your switch.

At this point you can now test and make sure it works
Now if all works it's time to hot glue it all together.

And this is the finished product with two extender rings for an 18650 and The Kick

 

[camprman]

Excellent tutorial! For some reason the link for the horn switch doesn't work. What's the part number as I want to find the same switch.

Thanks!

 

[yuttynutt]

I am really trying to find it again it was nice a switch with two posts to screw the wire to instead of solder

 

[yuttynutt]

Here it is hope this link works if not the part number is:EG4728-ND

 

[jtlewis]

was about to replace my bolts button.But looking at the button you used its listed at a 2amp rating. Is this holding up for you? And am i missing something shouldnt of at least be 3amp rated?

 

[Rader2146]

That button is in every Silver Bullet ever made. They're holding up pretty well.

 

[jtlewis]

I see. Thank you for response and i'm kinda new at the whole mod fixing and electrical stuff but that still this is confusing as i would assume if your using a duel coil or LR atty or cart you would be over limiting this switch? Guess what im asking is why does it work lol

 

[Rader2146]

Switch ratings are there to help increase the lifespan of the switch. The rating might deter someone from using it in a situation that would drastically reduce the lifespan. Rate the switch at a low amperage and they can usually give it a lifespan of several hundred-thousand cycles. Where if you use it above the rating, it will still work but maybe only for a couple thousand, or even a couple hundred cycles. In the manufacturing world, "mean time between failure" holds a lot of weight. So they rate the products to maximize the mean time between failure.

Some have made mods with .05A tactile switches to carry >2A. They work, but only for a while.

With that switch in the SB, many have run it at 6v and LR Dual Coils, and many more are running LR and Dual Coils at 3.7v. It is rare to hear about a switch failure in the SB. For our uses, it has stood the test of time better than its manufacturer's rating.

Hope that answers the question.

 

[Nomoreash]

I see. Thank you for response and i'm kinda new at the whole mod fixing and electrical stuff but that still this is confusing as i would assume if your using a duel coil or LR atty or cart you would be over limiting this switch? Guess what im asking is why does it work lol

It'll handle dual or anything else we throw at it just fine. The data sheet specifies the 2 amp rating is at 48 volts. We're not operating anywhere near 48 volts, 6 maybe 7v would be our max. As someone specified above, that's the same rated switch used in the SB, it's proven and solid.

 

[yuttynutt]

I see. Thank you for response and i'm kinda new at the whole mod fixing and electrical stuff but that still this is confusing as i would assume if your using a duel coil or LR atty or cart you would be over limiting this switch? Guess what im asking is why does it work lol

The switch is holding up fine I use 2.0 ohm single coil cartos @ 5v and have used 3.0 ohm @ 6v and all is well, I'm waiting to get a kick. So far everything I've put this through it is holding up very well.

 

[kalifornia]

Im waiting for my bolt to arrive, I've heard/read that the pin and the white plastic disk can rotate while installing and removing the battery thereby twisting the wires until they break. Is there something I can do to eliminate that from happening when I recieve my bolt? In other words is it the spinning of the center pin or the white disk or both that would need to be addressed and how would be a good way to address that issue? thanks

 

[yuttynutt]

I haven't had this issue since rewiring it but the connection did spin before I changed it. I use the extender ring and this seems to press the white plastic disk into it's place.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[micksf]

I'm wondering if anyone had any advice regarding using the horn switch that Madvapes sells? I'll get the switch you mention but don't want to open another account with another vendor if I don't have to.

Horn Style Switch, Black

 

[Rader2146]

That is the same switch that came with my bolt. Seems Smoketech used 2 different switches; Clicky and Squishy, for lack of better adjectives. My Bolt is clicky. I have bought 5 of the MV horn switches and all are the same switch that is in my bolt. I really like the switches and I think it's real hard to beat $0.89 for them. I can't speak to longevity other than saying I haven't had one fail.

 

[yuttynutt]

I'm wondering if anyone had any advice regarding using the horn switch that Madvapes sells? I'll get the switch you mention but don't want to open another account with another vendor if I don't have to.

Horn Style Switch, Black

I haven't tried the one from madvapes I chose this one for ease of installation but I have yet to get anything bad or defective from madvapes.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2

 

[Salt&PePPer]

Not all Bolts are Created Equal. Depends on who is knocking it off. And some actually have Plastic Buttons now, but I don't know the switch ratings.

 

[Nomoreash]

I'm wondering if anyone had any advice regarding using the horn switch that Madvapes sells? I'll get the switch you mention but don't want to open another account with another vendor if I don't have to.

Horn Style Switch, Black

I've used those quite bit, they are good switches, basically the same that comes on the Bolt originally and popular on basic box mods, hard to beat for the price.

I've found they don't take heat as well as some so remember that when soldering and be as quick as possible, I've ruined a few that way. Other than that, nice switch if you want to stay under a buck.