Rattle inside my new provari when I touch the button? Concerned

[MemphisRib]

If I gently push on the button without engaging it fully, and with my pinky on the extended cap (mod, cap, and 2x18650 bought directly from provape) I can feel that pushing on the button is displacing the guts enough to push the battery within the tube, and it "taps" or "rattles" against the end cap and tube. Rattle-ey jiggly bits inside would be ignorable on a $40 battery, but solid build is exactly the reason I thought I could part with several times that for a provari. And I am not disappointed as long as I could confirm that this is just a fluke build issue, and it could be swapped out for a normal unit without the oops.

Anyone else have rattle-ey bits in their provari?

 

[Beaver]

The following video talks about this issue from the 9 minute mark and on...

Long Term Provari Review - YouTube

 

[MemphisRib]

Thanks for that. Made clear what is going on. I'll reach out to those fine folks at provape and get things set right.

 

[Str8V8ping]

I can tell you right now from experience with opening up the provari that the video above is a little off. THe chip does NOT move inside the Provari tube at ALL.It fits in the track and is glued in place.Its a awesome design for shock resistantance. The little black box he refers to is NOT a resistor its a Inductor and it comes nowhere near the body of the tube and wouldnt make contact in any way.Provape also doesnt make their own inductors,its a standard smd electronics componant.They cant make bigger solder points. Inductors been around a long time and all have the same smd solder points. Also the positive post is soldered on both sides. That may be a really old video because there is two blue wires going to the top cap in the ones iv taken apart.I know there was some without wires but its not like that now at least. Im guessing he broke the glue connections off by trying to fit that bigger ultrafire battery without a spacer since its much longer then a IMR .Hes wrong about the IMR battery also. The AW IMR will give a better vape since it has a higher C rating which is needed for a boost device .The ultrafires may say 3000mah but are way overated actually. 2-3 days of batt life is highly exaggerated. All in all that video is very inaccurate to the way they are now.Theres no way in the top cap would ever come off like he showed without banging it out with a hammer. Its a strong press fit and theres nothing you could do to get the top cap off without actually banging it off from the inside with a hammer.

If the glue on your board comes loose you will see the display slid up and off center to the window and the button will get stuck since its all one piece.That would be a easy way to tell if thats the issue.

 

[Riverboat]

If I gently push on the button without engaging it fully, and with my pinky on the extended cap (mod, cap, and 2x18650 bought directly from provape) I can feel that pushing on the button is displacing the guts enough to push the battery within the tube, and it "taps" or "rattles" against the end cap and tube. Rattle-ey jiggly bits inside would be ignorable on a $40 battery, but solid build is exactly the reason I thought I could part with several times that for a provari. And I am not disappointed as long as I could confirm that this is just a fluke build issue, and it could be swapped out for a normal unit without the oops.

Anyone else have rattle-ey bits in their provari?

Something wrong there, mines solid when pushed...
Have you dropped it? My Provari has never seen the ground yet.. Now my Provape1 that has been dropped numerous times has that same problem, when the button is pushed is causes it to rattle like something is moving inside... Contact Provape...

 

[MemphisRib]

I contacted Provape, and they had me send it back and they sent one in return. Not sure if it is the same one (repair) or a new one, but they did resolve it. They told me it is an adhesive that can come loose, and if it does, it rattles.

But they took care of me when I emailed them.

It has bumped around a bit, but no hearty blows. But the biggest difference between a lava tube ($45) and a povari ($170) is supposed to be build quality. It's durability and status as a "multi-year" device instead of one that easily breaks/dies (6 month device)... this is worth some cash. But it does need to have that durability!

 

[crispysaturn]

I found the same issue with my black mini i bought on launch day - emailed provape and just waiting on a reply... works fine, just moves around inside when i push the button...worried that something worse will happen

 

[DaveP]

I think that any drop is likely to break the glue that binds the circuit board into the slots. Mine has the same click noise and the board moves back and forth when I press the switch. I've misplaced my eGo charger since I haven't used it in almost a year. I'm probably going to have to send mine in for repair, too. Like I told my wife ... if I don't find the eGo charger in a few days, I'm going to have to buy something to keep me from going back to cigarettes while the Provari is in the shop! No way I'm going for 2 to 3 weeks without a vape ... I might be a smoker again and that isn't going to happen!

I think maybe they put a drop or two of sealant in the channel when they inserted the board. Looks like a little more sealant would be better than the current amount. Lots of clickity switches being reported.

That said, the Provari is absolutely the the best vape I've experienced in 2 1/2 years of vaping. I'm sold no matter what. If I have to have it fixed, I'll just be counting the days until it comes back. It's still working like a champ. Hearing the board click back and forth when I press the fire button still tells me I need to send it in, though. Might as well have it at 100%.

 

[spoon]

I have the same issue, but I think it may be heat or something causing it. I've never dropped it, it has been knocked over on my desk though.

I got mine in November, sent it in in December, now it January and its doing it again(still?). The problem seems to pop up after using it a bit, solids for a couple of pulls then the battery and board move and bump the side of the tube.

Not really sure what to do, sending it again and it not fixing it will be beyond annoying. 2 year warranty only to have it spend most of it in the shop?(at this rate anyway.)

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

 

[kiba]

I have taken one that belonged to a freind of mine apart in order to line up the top cap for his zap, and I have to say the top cap does not come off very easily lol, also I have owned 4 minis, currently own 3 and never had the rattle. These devices are built tough and my gf and I definitely put them to the test, never had any issues w/ mine *knock on wood*

 

[It Must Feed]

I have taken one that belonged to a freind of mine apart in order to line up the top cap for his zap, and I have to say the top cap does not come off very easily lol, also I have owned 4 minis, currently own 3 and never had the rattle. These devices are built tough and my gf and I definitely put them to the test, never had any issues w/ mine *knock on wood*

Same here. I've banged my around quite a bit and have had no issues. From my experience, this thing is built like a tank.

 

[Ben C.]

If I gently push on the button without engaging it fully, and with my pinky on the extended cap (mod, cap, and 2x18650 bought directly from provape) I can feel that pushing on the button is displacing the guts enough to push the battery within the tube, and it "taps" or "rattles" against the end cap and tube. Rattle-ey jiggly bits inside would be ignorable on a $40 battery, but solid build is exactly the reason I thought I could part with several times that for a provari. And I am not disappointed as long as I could confirm that this is just a fluke build issue, and it could be swapped out for a normal unit without the oops.

Anyone else have rattle-ey bits in their provari?

Thank goodness for this thread; I don't feel so alone!
I just got my new Mini straight from Provape - arrived yesterday. I have it configured with the extension cap and loaded with the supplied AW IMR 18490. Good lord, this thing is wonderful and so much smaller than pics depict.

That said, I have the exact same experience - if I push on the button lightly, or wiggle the button laterally, I can feel the battery 'thunk' around in the tube. I thought it was the board, but when I opened it up and looked, it doesn't look like the board is moving at all. It's definitely the battery 'thunk'-ing around when I use the button. This is especially noticeable with every 1st puff, or when navigating the menu system.

Additionally, the button is a bit rattle-y, but from what I've seen they designed it that way so it doesn't get stuck as it has in prior models. But for the $200+ I laid out, I was expecting something a bit more solid overall.

So... should I send it in? Or is this somewhat normal?

 

[Riverboat]

Thank goodness for this thread; I don't feel so alone!
I just got my new Mini straight from Provape - arrived yesterday. I have it configured with the extension cap and loaded with the supplied AW IMR 18490. Good lord, this thing is wonderful and so much smaller than pics depict.

That said, I have the exact same experience - if I push on the button lightly, or wiggle the button laterally, I can feel the battery 'thunk' around in the tube. I thought it was the board, but when I opened it up and looked, it doesn't look like the board is moving at all. It's definitely the battery 'thunk'-ing around when I use the button. This is especially noticeable with every 1st puff, or when navigating the menu system.

Additionally, the button is a bit rattle-y, but from what I've seen they designed it that way so it doesn't get stuck as it has in prior models. But for the $200+ I laid out, I was expecting something a bit more solid overall.

So... should I send it in? Or is this somewhat normal?

I have owned 2 Provape1's and 3 Provaris... When you push your button there should br NO 'thunk'-ing around ... It should feel 100% solid... Contact Provape.....

 

[Ben C.]

Thanks Riverboat - will do!

That said... I've only used it since 5PM yesterday and I already know I'm going to miss it as I will have to go back to the eGos when I send the Mini back for repair

 

[Riverboat]

Thanks Riverboat - will do!

That said... I've only used it since 5PM yesterday and I already know I'm going to miss it as I will have to go back to the eGos when I send the Mini back for repair

Provape is fast with turn around, you wont have to wait long...

 

[mtran]

For people who stumble upon this thread in the future. I believe the problem to be too much pressure on the battery. In other threads I've heard mention that slightly loosening the cap helps but they also say to stretch the spring...??

Today my mini of about 7 months developed the problem, I had read about it before and the slight loosening did help (1/16 to 1/8 turn) I did not stretch the spring because that made no sense to me. I then realized what happened, I was polishing my battery cap and I stuck a rolled up piece of paper in the vent hole to prevent polishing compound entering the vent. When I screwed the cap back on I forgot about the plug and it being a little too long was putting extra pressure on the battery. Pulled the plug out viola problem solved.

It's an electronic device, I don't know exactly but I think it's safe to assume you only need enough spring pressure to complete a circuit. Anymore than that seems unnecessary. Like a car battery you only tighten the connections on the terminals enough to ensure a good connection, too tight is actually not wanted. Take your two fingers one on each hand and touch them tip to tip, the more pressure you put the more violent the movement will be where your fingers touch. I think that's what happening between battery and circuit board when there's too much pressure. The extra pressure makes it pivot more violently causing the feeling of something rattling or moving around inside.

Hope this helps someone!