ive been using my eBaron dripper atomizer on my 3 yr old grand for months now with no problem. i bought a new reo grand LP and when i screw down the atty down my new reo shorts out and spring collapses. i had couple of spare springs and after i installed the second spring then pressed the fire button it shorted out again, collapsing the spring once again. now after the 3rd battery spring i reinstalled the atty and stopped turning after the lightest resistance and hit the fire button and seems to work just fine. but now theres a 2mm gap at between atty and 510 connector. it puzzles me cause on my original grand i screw atty all the way down and everything works great, with no gap at all. any ideas? thanks.
need help with reo grand lp
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Unfortunately I don't have answers but I am glad you had back-up springs on hand! Good Luck with finding a solution!
Looks like you will need a 2mm o-ring or a shallower atty. any leakage issues? I assume you have modified the ebarron to bottom feed?
you may not be able to tighten it to flush, just use a thicker o ring
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the reo grand LP is brand new, i recieved it yesterday. the ebaron dripper was the the atty i ever installed in it and shorted instantly. when i install the atty and stop turning when i feel the slightest resistance it works fine but it leaves me with a huge gap and most likely going to leak.
yeah just seen that and edited my post, at first I thought you meant the 3 year old one
You need a 10mm x 1mm or 1.5mm o-ring to sandwich between the atty base and the top of the device (around the 510). They can be found on the Reos site or Home Depot. The Home Depot will be sae not metric but should be in the area of 3/8"x1/16
Could you post a pic of the 510 connection on the e-baron dripper.
New 510 connectors on the REOs tend to work themselves a little lower over time with attys going on and off.
Still to get one to short it normally takes some serious cranking .... or the atty has a wonky pos pin.
I imagine the 3y old one has compressed down as far as it will go ...... but the new connector will take some time.
When I get a new one I go easy on it and notice each time I take an atty off and on it will turn just a little farther.
New 510 connectors on the REOs tend to work themselves a little lower over time with attys going on and off.
Still to get one to short it normally takes some serious cranking .... or the atty has a wonky pos pin.
I imagine the 3y old one has compressed down as far as it will go ...... but the new connector will take some time.
When I get a new one I go easy on it and notice each time I take an atty off and on it will turn just a little farther.
I agree with Tim and Rob, I googled the eBaron a bit and from what I can see it has one of those long(ish) early ERA type 510's...it tends to stand proud on a lot of mods and leave a gap so I doubt it's the Grand causing the issue...it was built with the provari in mind which does have one of the most forgiving 510's
one other issue...as I watched Pbusardo mangle another build (
) I saw how you press that ceramic cup down onto the center pin (which is probably threaded not pressed)...you may have forced the whole center pin/insulator out after doing that a few times...try taking apart your build, remove the ceramic then put it back together again (no ceramic), stand it on a piece of wood (510 connector down) and tap the top with another piece of wood (don't beat it, lol) and see if the center pin/insulator gets driven in and sits more flush with the outer threaded edge.
Tip: if what you've done shorts and collapses the spring, meter it out and find the problem , don't just put another spring in and do it again?, and again??? Robs springs do a pretty good job but that's a lot of stress on the other components...just saying
one other issue...as I watched Pbusardo mangle another build (
) I saw how you press that ceramic cup down onto the center pin (which is probably threaded not pressed)...you may have forced the whole center pin/insulator out after doing that a few times...try taking apart your build, remove the ceramic then put it back together again (no ceramic), stand it on a piece of wood (510 connector down) and tap the top with another piece of wood (don't beat it, lol) and see if the center pin/insulator gets driven in and sits more flush with the outer threaded edge.Tip: if what you've done shorts and collapses the spring, meter it out and find the problem , don't just put another spring in and do it again?, and again??? Robs springs do a pretty good job but that's a lot of stress on the other components...just saying
I agree with Tim and Rob, I googled the eBaron a bit and from what I can see it has one of those long(ish) early ERA type 510's...it tends to stand proud on a lot of mods and leave a gap so I doubt it's the Grand causing the issue...it was built with the provari in mind which does have one of the most forgiving 510's
one other issue...as I watched Pbusardo mangle another build (
Tip: if what you've done shorts and collapses the spring, meter it out and find the problem , don't just put another spring in and do it again?, and again??? Robs springs do a pretty good job but that's a lot of stress on the other components...just saying
the eBaron Pro dripper is meant for the provari, im using the spiral dripper which is a great atty. ive been using it with my 3yr old grand fine with no leaks no shorts. center pin on atty is fine, proper amount of reveal.
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