Need help troubleshooing RTA/Mod issue

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Smokey the Unbearable

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May 21, 2016
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Here's the back story, copypasta from my intro thread
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Fast forward to today. Her (my daughter's) first 18650 mod finally gave up the ghost. She was too sick to go to the vapor shop with me, so I went alone. I was trying very hard to not get interested in vaping as more tech toys to play with, so I had done zero shopping (I'm a serious feature shopper). I walked in and unwittingly let the counter drone use me to clear some older inventory. I walked out with a VaporShark rDNA 40 W TC mod and an Aspire Cleito(sp?) tank.

Two weeks later it died. So I made them send it back for a warranty repair, but so my daughter wouldn't be without (and insist on analogs) I let the counter drone push an X Cube Mini on us at a "discount".

When the VaporShark came back repaired I put a used tank on it that that was given to me by a friend. Well 3 days later the VS went belly up again. I went back to the store, pretty mad, but the receipt says "No returns" So I made them send it in again and they sold me a Kanger Kbox Mini, and and Top Tank Mini because we figured out that the tank was bad (but not that the tank was destroying the mods). It was a tough call because sometimes the tank would work, and sometimes not.

Well, being the total noob I am, I try to put the used tank on my new Kanger. It worked for about 3 days, and I really preferred the puffs I was getting from it over the Toptank Mini.

However, when the Kbox went belly up I finally got it through my head that the used tank (an eGo ONE Mega, but I'm not maligning Joyetech or any of the other manufacturers listed) was burning out my mods.

So the end result is that I have 2 mods out for repair, one Kanger Toptank Mini, and a Griffin 25mm with top airflow cap that was priced much too nicely (just under $30, including shipping) to pass up in the mail.
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So, that brings us to today. I'm tired of waiting on my mods to come back so I ask my daughter if I can borrow her X Cube Mini for a few and vape some of the butter rum that's in my Toptank Mini. She's fine with that, so I remove her tank and gently screw mine on. When I hit the fire button I get "Check Atomizer", which is the exact error message I got on the Vapor Shark, the message the store guy got on his mod (intermittently) and the same I got on the Kbox. I unscrewed my Toptank Mini from that X Cube Mini and and gave her mod back to her.

My first question is can the tank/atty damage a mod as described above?

Could a mod damaged in such a fashion then destroy a new tank?

I'm at my wit's end here. I'm enjoying vaping (when I actually get to do it, I'm 0% nicotine) but if every mod I touch is going to self destruct there's not much point in it for me.

More background on me;

I've been building my own PCs for the past 25+ years, and prior to that I worked in the electronics industry for over a decade. I'm no stranger to handling delicate electronics, so I'm 90% certain I'm not over tightening the 510 connector, but at this point I'm second guessing everything.
 

sawlight

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OK, I recall your first post on this problem, the Vapor sharks seem to have a problem with not liking juice in them, seems a common thread with them. So if any of your tanks leaked at all, that would be the issue with them.
The Toptank I don't know, I have a Dripbox and it's been pretty happy with me so far.
Something to keep in mind, these things are uber sensitive in the 510 connection. If you have old juice, corrosion etc., on any part of it, the tank or mod, it's going to be unhappy! We regularly have to take a Q-tip with alcohol and clean the inside on the mod and wipe the atties with a paper towel soaked in alcohol to clean them good.
I'm not saying this is your problem, but it's a good place to start, just the slightest amount of gunk and it's not happy!
 

Smokey the Unbearable

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May 21, 2016
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Thanks @sawlight!

I'm a fiend for keeping the threads clean on the 510 connection. I have alcohol wipes I use to wipe down the deck every time the tank comes off if there's leakage. There hasn't been any leakage with my Toptank Mini, but my daughter's Cleto leaks all the time and I know she never cleans the 510 connector. Yet her mod is the only with with zero issues.

And when I say "zero issues" I mean she's vaping with her Cleto tank just fine.
 
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Two_Bears

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Before you crack them open, turn them off, then take a small screwdriver, or pin, etc, and GENTLY try to pry the center pin up a little, sometimes they just get stuck down, one atty sticks out more than another and has been on too long, etc. It's an old school trick, but sometimes helps.
Be extremely careful fiddling with the 510.

The X6 the 510 is not spring loaded so if the the 510 PIN is longer than another Atty itbwill push the 510 down and not make contact with the other attys.
 

gofishtx

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Like Sawlight said, gently lifting the 510 connection will solve most of the issues of an atomizer short message. If it's not the 510 connection on the device and if all of your connections are clean then next you need to check your coil. Try changing it out. There have been cases where a whole box of coils was bad, if this is the case, try ordering new coils from a different source or if you have an rba section try making your own. Good Luck
 

Smokey the Unbearable

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Got my Griffin 25 in the mail today. Did not know it doesn't come with a coil. Took it and my Toptank Mini to the local vape shop. Asked them to put the Kanger on a 521 Ohm tester. They had one, and they did. The base of the Kanger Toptank is shorted.

I guess the base of the eGo being shorted some how blew out the current regulation (is there any?) on my two mods. And then the Kbox blew out the base (build deck?) on the Toptank.

So the Toptank will go in the mail back to Kanger, and the eGo went into the trash.

And I have to get a 521 Ohm tester, probably a Coil Master 521 Tab.
 
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sawlight

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Depending on how it went out, it may have been the issue, in theory, THEORIES are like............, the mods should have protected themselves, but........... If it went slowly, the mod may not have seen it, I can't really explain it right in written word, it'd be easier to show you. But as it went the regulation thought "okay, were still good" and it may have just worn the board out going from bad to good all the time?
I'm glad you found the issue though, sorry it took so long to sort out.
 

Smokey the Unbearable

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What does the inside of the base of the build deck look like? Are there any components in there, or just metal and insulators?

What I'm expecting is a screw to adjust the depth of the 510 positive pin, and something to separate the positive from the negative. The negative will be the chassis, so to speak, and the positive will connect to the positive pole that connects to the atty itself.
 

sawlight

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What does the inside of the base of the build deck look like? Are there any components in there, or just metal and insulators?

What I'm expecting is a screw to adjust the depth of the 510 positive pin, and something to separate the positive from the negative. The negative will be the chassis, so to speak, and the positive will connect to the positive pole that connects to the atty itself.
That's a hard question to answer, mainly it's metal and insulators, very few of the cheap atties allow you to adjust the 510 pin. Most likely what's happened is the insulation just slowly went bad until it became a direct short. Google the make of your atty then look at the images page and see if that will help answer your question better than I can.
 
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