Need help setting up my IGO-L with ekowool and kanthal ribbon wire

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xHaZe

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I just ordered my first rba the IGO-L along with 2mm ekowool for wicking and some kanthal A-1 ribbon wire .5mm x .1mm. My goal is to wrap a coil approximately in the 1.5 - 2.0 ohm range. I searched the threads thoroughly before posting but could not find an answer for this specific setup with the equipment I currently have so I was hoping you guys could guide me here on how to achieve this. For starters, I plan on doubling up the ekowool wick by folding it over. Basically, I need to know what lengths to cut both the wick and wire and how many wraps around the wick should I make my coil for it to be 1.5 - 2.0 ohm? I have been vaping for quite a while but am a total newbie in the rba department. Thanks in advance.
 

minimalsaint

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For starters, get yourself a multimeter and learn how to use it. There is no true "wrap xx times for xx ohms" answer. It can vary depending on how tight the coil is, how the coil wraps are spaced, and the length of the legs from coil to + / - posts. The short answer is that you will have to experiment a couple of times and test as you go. IMHO it is always better to wrap too many times so if your coil meters out at too high of a resistance level, you can always disconnect one leg and carefully take one wrap off, connect and test again.
With RBAs it is also a good idea to test your coils regularly (I test every other day) to be sure your resistance is staying the same and no shorts have occurred. Ribbon wire is a tricky beast because I have found that it doesn't take much pressure for it to slip out from under the terminal screws on the IGO posts. Loose wires can drastically change the resistance or even cause a short if you aren't careful.
What sort of device will you be using it on?
 

xHaZe

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Thanks for the advice I will definitely take that into consideration. I have been doing so much research on the subject and processing so much info in such a short time I feel my head is gonna explode LOL. The devices I will be using are a chrome lavatube from Volcano (older model), a Volcano Inferno and am ordering a Smoktech ZMAX mini. I do not have a meter but if I'm not mistaken, my lavatube has a feature to check atomizer resistance. So I should be good to go with that right?
 

minimalsaint

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Yes, I believe that will do- can't be 100% sure as I have never owned a fancy regulated mod- only mechs- but from what I have read, you should be good to go!
Another suggestion for the IGO- try to get the coil as close to the outside lip as possible without touching the cap once it's on. Airflow is key to vapor production with RBAs and the closer your coil is to the hole, the better your results will be. Keep in mind that longer legs on the coil will add resistance, so you will use fewer wraps on the coil itself.
As for the length of ekowool for your wick- you won't need much. Maybe 2 inches. Having a lot of wick stuffed around the deck definitely soaks up more liquid, but doesn't necessarily help with wicking. Keeping the coil loose (but still in contact) on the wick will also help wicking by not "choking" the flow of liquid to the coil area.
Don't get discouraged and have fun experimenting. There is definitely a learning curve with rebuilding but the satisfaction you get from a good build will put a smile on your face for sure!
 

Jerry J

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Yes, I believe that will do- can't be 100% sure as I have never owned a fancy regulated mod- only mechs- but from what I have read, you should be good to go!
Another suggestion for the IGO- try to get the coil as close to the outside lip as possible without touching the cap once it's on. Airflow is key to vapor production with RBAs and the closer your coil is to the hole, the better your results will be. Keep in mind that longer legs on the coil will add resistance, so you will use fewer wraps on the coil itself.
As for the length of ekowool for your wick- you won't need much. Maybe 2 inches. Having a lot of wick stuffed around the deck definitely soaks up more liquid, but doesn't necessarily help with wicking. Keeping the coil loose (but still in contact) on the wick will also help wicking by not "choking" the flow of liquid to the coil area.
Don't get discouraged and have fun experimenting. There is definitely a learning curve with rebuilding but the satisfaction you get from a good build will put a smile on your face for sure!

Man, I learned a lot of great info in this reply. Thank you!!!
 

xHaZe

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So I just wanted to give you guys an update. I have received my IGO-L, managed to wrap a beautiful coil (beginner's luck I guess) that clocked in at 2.0 ohms. I was in vaping heaven for all of two hours before making the biggest noob mistake one could make which was pulling the top cap (which was sealed real tight) off while screwed into the device causing the threads to strip. Now it won't screw in. Idk if the threads are stripped on the atty or the device but I just can't seem to keep it on for the life of me :( Been about a week since I used it and I swear for those few hours it was the best vape I ever had and I'm missing it!
 

SilverZero

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So I just wanted to give you guys an update. I have received my IGO-L, managed to wrap a beautiful coil (beginner's luck I guess) that clocked in at 2.0 ohms. I was in vaping heaven for all of two hours before making the biggest noob mistake one could make which was pulling the top cap (which was sealed real tight) off while screwed into the device causing the threads to strip. Now it won't screw in. Idk if the threads are stripped on the atty or the device but I just can't seem to keep it on for the life of me :( Been about a week since I used it and I swear for those few hours it was the best vape I ever had and I'm missing it!

Sorry to hear about your problem. I was worried about that happening to me; removing the cap from my IGO-L was a ....h. I ended up removing the bottom o-ring and now I can take the cap off and put it back on with zero issues.

Do you have another atty with a 510 connection that you can test on the same mod? That might help you narrow down whether it's the threads on the IGO-L or your mod that are stripped.
 

xHaZe

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I tried screwing in another atty and it fits fine, then I thought maybe I stripped the threads on the IGO but it fits onto another one of my deviced. A tiny little battery unfit for RBAs. Is there anything I could wrap around the threads to make them fit a bit more snug? Like thin wire? Without getting electrocuted lol.
 
Ok I'd like to ask for some help on this same topic.

I'm using ribbon and wire. On The Russian and my wire keeps cutting into the ribbon! Everything says wrap it tight and close.. I even heated the ribbon before wrapping it!

If you mean that you're trying to wrap the flat ribbon and the regular kanthal wire together into one big wire, then you should twist it up. That's called a "Tiger coil". Just started using it, SUPER bad .... Leo Shin on youtube invented it, and RIP trippers has a good video on how to build one as well.
 
I tried screwing in another atty and it fits fine, then I thought maybe I stripped the threads on the IGO but it fits onto another one of my deviced. A tiny little battery unfit for RBAs. Is there anything I could wrap around the threads to make them fit a bit more snug? Like thin wire? Without getting electrocuted lol.

Putting wire down there is a bad idea hahaha. You could however get a 510-510 connection that you just force down into your connection and now you've got new threads on top :D 4 bucks that'll save your device.
510 to [510] Adapter/Extender
 
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