Mod got hot, is battery ok?

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Sep9000

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Dec 4, 2014
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I have a copper mechanical mod clone I used to use to build .2 dual coil RDA setups. I've been running an Aspire Atlantis on it for some time now and today I had an interesting experience. I hit the button, it wouldnt fire. This does happen from time to time as it seems like good contact isnt made. Usually the 2nd try gets the button to make good contact and everything works as it should.

Now the reason I'm mentioning the 0.2 dual coil RDA setup is because that setup draws a lot more current than the 0.5 ohm atlantis and I hadn't experienced some thing like this before..

Earlier today as I was vaping outside on my lunch break it wouldnt fire, and I was already using it without any problems so I thought it was a problem with the button making good contact. On the 2nd try the button suddenly got super hot. I'm still not sure ... happened. I quickly removed the top end and took the battery out, and it was very very warm. Though keep in mind the button was unholdable hot. As I was holding the battery in my hand it felt like it was slowly getting warmer but I have no idea if i was imagining this or not because I wasn't trying to figure out if the battery was going to vent and what to do with it. I left it outside on concrete away from people or anything that could burn just in case it decided to explode. 6 hours later when i returned the battery looks fine, no swelling and it reads 3.7volts.

Im unsure of what the hell happened earlier today. I'm thinking if it was the battery, it should have warmed up everything around it, but the mod body didn't really heat up, so it's probable that the finicky button is at cause. It probably didn't have a good contact in some place, where only a small surface area was making contact so it heated up. Because it seems like the button is what really heated up and it probably transferred some heat to the battery. I didnt have a laser themometer so I don't really know what the temp of each part was so I cant be definite, plus I was freaking out trying to handle the situation in a safe manner.

Anyways, do you guys think this battery is ok? Should I give it some light use and see if it heats up? I belive it's a sony vtc4. I know I didnt over load it, even though I was chain vaping today on my break.

I bought these batteries some time ago off amazon. I know there are sellers on there who sell fakes but I made sure the vendor I bought it from had all positive reviews with no fake comments. Is there a way to verify 100% that these batteries are legit? If not, .... it I might just buy new batteries from another reputable company. It doesn't necessarily have to be a sony, especially now that im not running 0.2ohm builds and that other companies are making good batteries.
 
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Sep9000

Full Member
Dec 4, 2014
28
5
Well, put in my 2nd battery and the same thing happened. So not only does the button get super hot, it burned me this time but the battery slowly warms up too even after it's out the mod suggesting to me the battery is getting a high load. Though it doesnt get too warm. I got out the multimeter, and yup... the thing is shorting out. I'm getting 0 ohms. Somethings up with the atlantis. Time to tear it apart and see whats broken. This is very surprising for me, I changed the coil and across the coil I'm getting the expected 0.5ohm while from the + battery terminal to the atlantis body I'm getting 0 ohms suggesting to me the + terminal of the atlantis is shorting out somehow. Atleast with an RDA you're building them once a week or two and you kind of go through the procedure of checking everything and nothing suddenly surprises you as long as you do your work correctly.
 
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RamShot Rowdy

Battery Police
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Nov 6, 2009
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Your first mistake was hitting the button a second time..if a mech mod doesn't fire on the first try, stop, pull the battery, break out the meter and see what's wrong.

I have no idea if your batteries are authentic, but a dead short will heat up any battery.

I'm not a battery expert, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. My only advice is, if it doesn't fire, see what's wrong and proceed with caution.
 

Sep9000

Full Member
Dec 4, 2014
28
5
Your first mistake was hitting the button a second time..if a mech mod doesn't fire on the first try, stop, pull the battery, break out the meter and see what's wrong.

I have no idea if your batteries are authentic, but a dead short will heat up any battery.

I'm not a battery expert, so I'll let someone else chime in on that. My only advice is, if it doesn't fire, see what's wrong and proceed with caution.

I totally get the precaution here but honestly the button catches on the side all the time and doesnt go in all the way making any contact and I think it's silly to be carrying a multimeter because the design of the button is slighly bad. Eitherway, I will probably pick up a boxmod soon. Seems a lot more convinient and enjoyable than mechanical mods.
 

Rickajho

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Apr 23, 2011
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Boston MA
I totally get the precaution here but honestly the button catches on the side all the time and doesnt go in all the way making any contact and I think it's silly to be carrying a multimeter because the design of the button is slighly bad. Eitherway, I will probably pick up a boxmod soon. Seems a lot more convinient and enjoyable than mechanical mods.

If you have a mechanical that's dead shorting and you think it's "silly" to have a meter - it's time to stop using a mechanical.

Batteries do not like being cooked - it damages the internal structure and the chemistry. The only way to tell how much damage was done is to measure the voltage of the batteries right after the incident - and you do that with a meter. If the short was bad enough that it dumped the voltage down to 1.5 volts or less in a matter of seconds then ditch the batteries.
 

Ryedan

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Mar 31, 2012
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Well, put in my 2nd battery and the same thing happened. So not only does the button get super hot, it burned me this time but the battery slowly warms up too even after it's out the mod suggesting to me the battery is getting a high load. Though it doesnt get too warm. I got out the multimeter, and yup... the thing is shorting out. I'm getting 0 ohms. Somethings up with the atlantis. Time to tear it apart and see whats broken. This is very surprising for me, I changed the coil and across the coil I'm getting the expected 0.5ohm while from the + battery terminal to the atlantis body I'm getting 0 ohms suggesting to me the + terminal of the atlantis is shorting out somehow. Atleast with an RDA you're building them once a week or two and you kind of go through the procedure of checking everything and nothing suddenly surprises you as long as you do your work correctly.

Good to see you figured it out :thumb:. This kind of thing is the down side of vaping mech mods. That's all I've been vaping for the last couple of years and I agree with the others who said if there is a problem, stop and fix it right away. I've had switches get intermittent and I did that before things got worse or it had a chance to hide another problem from me.

Most of the time good Li-ion batteries prevent flames or explosions when they vent, but every once in a while one does explode. I buy batts from known good suppliers so I know at least that my battery is not a counterfeit. IMO that's really important in a regulated mod too. The only mod I ever had auto-fire was regulated, go figure. And regulation is not going to stop a bad battery from venting in that scenario.

The other thing is to have a good charger and keep an eye on it. I check battery voltage off the charger every once in a while and I'm always there when they are charging in the house. I'll also quickly lay a hand on the batts in the charger every time I pass them to make sure they're not getting hot. Even good chargers can go bad. Works for me ;)

My list of known good battery suppliers:

Illumination Supply
RTD Vapor
Lighthound
Orbtronic
Battery Junction
 
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