Mechanical's and RBA's myth, where did it come from?

[the4thpower3]

Let go of the past.
Things naturally evolve.
We are always looking for something better.
I started with a crappy 510 based cigathingy - I went back to smoking.
Out came the 808d - tried those. Stayed for a while, but still not good enough.
Then came LR attys and LR cartos; dripping mmmm yum for 3 drags ; then 5v passthrus.
Need more watts for a more satisfying vape.
Stacking unregulated 7.4v demanded high restistance attys and cartos. Atomizing that juice
faster then ever. Most Angry Pirate tanks here we come.
Damn - so hard to find that sweet spot though. 5v regulated device running stacks with a 2ohm
Carto tank. Pretty good. But what do I do with all my high res attys and cartos?
Variable voltage. Great - Now I can use all the crap that I've bought
over the last few years of searching for that perfect vape on one device.
... But I can't walk around with this (other) huge thing in my pants.
Back to smaller safer mech mods - at 3.7volts - what?! Not enough watts
for my 2.0ohm cartos. Very low res cartos. Yes. 1.25ohm dual coil carto tank
(Still a pretty damn good vape at 3.7v). Not enough flavor - have you tried dripping?
Back to that again? Rebuildables - build your own and make clouds of flavorful
vapor. But I still have to drip. Bring forth the rebuildable tank says the lord - genenis.
Not skilled enough to rebuild? Too lazy? Not enough time? Not interested?
No worry, china makes it easy. Jus leplace head wit premake coir special one for you.
15 watt minimum vape. Mech 1.25 ohm or lower. VV - whatever - can it make it to 15 watts?
What do you need a kick for? Lower your resistance - huh? Build your own coil.
Low res carto tank, protank, evod, killer tank, ithaka and rdas.
I forget what we were talking about.

 

[sawlight]

I had a Lava Tube, and still have a Provari, which I use mind you! I'm not arguing the fact that VV/VW is better or not! But I don't get the mindset that all mech's are good for is sub ohm vaping with an RBA now that we have this new technology available.
As for the safety factor, with the batteries we have available now I don't think running a 1.5ohm carto is much of a threat!
For the run time concern, I don't get that at all, in all honesty you should get a longer run time on a mech than on a VV or VW device. Figure that the battery see's the same load, no matter how you do the math, and the electronics only have around a 85% effacy rating. Yes, you will see the voltage drop, as well as battery sag, I'll give you that one! But honestly telling me you get more run time out of a 650mah Ego vs. an 18650 in a mech? I think you need a better ohm meter!
2ohms, at 8 watts= 2amp draw at 4v.
1.5ohm on a mech= 2.46amps 3.7v (allowing for sag) at 9.1 watts.
So that .4 amps kills the battery that is 3 times the capacity in less than half the time?
Really, this isn't about VV vs. mechanical, both can work fine when used properly, but with this sub ohm craze going on now, it seems that's all people think they are good for! As I'm sure some are soon to blow up with the same craze going on! But I hate seeing mech's get kicked to the curb as useless unless you want to sub ohm vape, it's simply not true!

 

[Andy Thatcher]

Nearly there. Let's talk about these pesky amp thingies. Reason for mechs with rebuildables is simply should you draw high amps through the device there is nothing to go wrong. Lava tube, Vari etc will with error out or worse have wiring fail leaving you with a tube. Vari errors, Lava tube can die ZMax errors,MVP dies. Had all the above happen. That is why l use mechs.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 4

 

[nickrw99]

I'm just going to throw in the fact that after the startup cost of buying an RDA, the consumables (wick and kanthal) are way cheaper than the traditional consumables (cartos and attys). If RDAs were available when I first started vaping, I would have saved a ton of cash not having to buy 901 attys in bulk.

 

[Vapeaddikt]

quality RDA's just cost me less, don't break in my pocket and produce better results and I know its coiled to my liking and resistance. I paid more for throwaways than I could have saved to get a badass mod/RDA/RBA over the time I wasted w/ them.

I wish I got my first RDA sooner. Myth or not I base my life on results of actions I take and continue to adjust so long as its an improvement which this definitely was without allowing complacency/acceptance to set in on anything. There is ALWAYS room for improvement even if you can't see it initially. (just my personal experience)

 

[tearose50]

LOL IMHO you might save a bunch more to switch back and buy 901 attys in bulk now.

I know that's an argument for RBA's -- but how many have bought two set ups and then never try the latest cable, mesh, cotton, ribbon wire, gauge of wire, ceramic wick.........and the endless stream of new potential products for coils and wicks. And then that new clone is such a good deal.....and it has X Y and Z feature.

Is it really a fact --- or just potential?

I know I spent about as much on "stuff" as I did on my moderately priced RBAs. I'd rather have had a dozen HH357's....and I've never even owned one!

But, that's me. I'm glad there are all of you continuing on this adventure and the product development is continuing. Who knows, someday I might pull out those vintage RBA's and need someone to help me with them.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

I had a Lava Tube, and still have a Provari, which I use mind you! I'm not arguing the fact that VV/VW is better or not! But I don't get the mindset that all mech's are good for is sub ohm vaping with an RBA now that we have this new technology available.
As for the safety factor, with the batteries we have available now I don't think running a 1.5ohm carto is much of a threat!
For the run time concern, I don't get that at all, in all honesty you should get a longer run time on a mech than on a VV or VW device. Figure that the battery see's the same load, no matter how you do the math, and the electronics only have around a 85% effacy rating. Yes, you will see the voltage drop, as well as battery sag, I'll give you that one! But honestly telling me you get more run time out of a 650mah Ego vs. an 18650 in a mech? I think you need a better ohm meter!
2ohms, at 8 watts= 2amp draw at 4v.
1.5ohm on a mech= 2.46amps 3.7v (allowing for sag) at 9.1 watts.
So that .4 amps kills the battery that is 3 times the capacity in less than half the time?
Really, this isn't about VV vs. mechanical, both can work fine when used properly, but with this sub ohm craze going on now, it seems that's all people think they are good for! As I'm sure some are soon to blow up with the same craze going on! But I hate seeing mech's get kicked to the curb as useless unless you want to sub ohm vape, it's simply not true!

You're likely going to see longer battery life from a regulated device than you are a mech simply because unless you like terribly low watt vaping you're going to be swapping out batteries in a mech at a much higher voltage than you would in a regulated device.

There's no way I'm vaping an 18650 in a mech down past 3.6v but a provari would still be producing the same output as a fresh battery down to about 3.3v.

The reason people link mechs with sub ohm vaping is because unless you NEED to run a mech to bypass watt/amp limits of regulated devices, the consistency offered by a regulated vape is the more sensible option every time.

 

[UncleChimney]

I have had no luck with micros on my protanks, cant get them to stop spitting at me. will have to try it again when I have 28 and 30ga kanthal on hand

Yeah all I have is 28g and 32g, but I've never even thought of making a coil with the 32g for a mech. Just don't think it'd work out near as well, and I'm loving the 28g micro on all my BCCs.

 

[NicoHolic]

You're likely going to see longer battery life...

You're confusing battery charge life with battery life. A battery used in a mech, even at sub-ohm currents, is likely to last longer than one used in a regulated device. Because the mech user typically pulls the battery for charge earlier, it's being used for high current in the charge range where it's the strongest. As the battery gets weaker, the load put upon it is kinder, and the charge use actually decelerates with charge decrease. Depth of discharge is a significant factor in battery life.

Regulated mods do just the opposite. The cost of maintaining a level coil voltage in the face of declining battery voltage is increasing battery current. Use of battery charge accelerates as battery voltage falls. Regulated mods hide this from you, but at the lower battery voltages regulated mod users take "advantage" of, battery current with a super ohm coil on a regulated mod can be as much as that of a higher resistance sub-ohm coil on a fresh battery in a mech mod. The weaker a battery gets, the harder the regulated mod works it. Because of this, battery life is likely less, and the real world charge life isn't significantly longer.

 

[articus]

Most of us getting mechanical modes to run sub ohm's on them.
And making 0.6 for evod's .... kinda lame.
Thats why we using RBA's.
Still myth for you?

 

[_more_]

You're confusing battery charge life with battery life. A battery used in a mech, even at sub-ohm currents, is likely to last longer than one used in a regulated device. Because the mech user typically pulls the battery for charge earlier, it's being used for high current in the charge range where it's the strongest. As the battery gets weaker, the load put upon it is kinder, and the charge use actually decelerates with charge decrease. Depth of discharge is a significant factor in battery life.

Regulated mods do just the opposite. The cost of maintaining a level coil voltage in the face of declining battery voltage is increasing battery current. Use of battery charge accelerates as battery voltage falls. Regulated mods hide this from you, but at the lower battery voltages regulated mod users take "advantage" of, battery current with a super ohm coil on a regulated mod can be as much as that of a higher resistance sub-ohm coil on a fresh battery in a mech mod. The weaker a battery gets, the harder the regulated mod works it. Because of this, battery life is likely less, and the real world charge life isn't significantly longer.

This explanation makes the most sense to me.

 

[st0nedpenguin]

You're confusing battery charge life with battery life. A battery used in a mech, even at sub-ohm currents, is likely to last longer than one used in a regulated device. Because the mech user typically pulls the battery for charge earlier, it's being used for high current in the charge range where it's the strongest. As the battery gets weaker, the load put upon it is kinder, and the charge use actually decelerates with charge decrease. Depth of discharge is a significant factor in battery life.

Regulated mods do just the opposite. The cost of maintaining a level coil voltage in the face of declining battery voltage is increasing battery current. Use of battery charge accelerates as battery voltage falls. Regulated mods hide this from you, but at the lower battery voltages regulated mod users take "advantage" of, battery current with a super ohm coil on a regulated mod can be as much as that of a higher resistance sub-ohm coil on a fresh battery in a mech mod. The weaker a battery gets, the harder the regulated mod works it. Because of this, battery life is likely less, and the real world charge life isn't significantly longer.

I'd still get more battery life from the same battery in a provari as I do in a mech, I only manage a couple hours between battery swaps running a .5 dual as it is.

 

[NicoHolic]

I'd still get more battery life from the same battery in a provari...

...not gonna touch that one...

A 6 ml bottle lasts me as much as 16 hours, after which the 18650 is at 3.6-3.7 volts unloaded (good bottle/battery match). And that's whether I'm using a 0.5Ω or 0.8Ω micro coil because I subconsciously hit the lower resistance less often. This is with 24 mg nic, though. I hit either coil much more often with lower nic concentration.

 

[sawlight]

Most of us getting mechanical modes to run sub ohm's on them.
And making 0.6 for evod's .... kinda lame.
Thats why we using RBA's.
Still myth for you?

No! Many of you may be getting the for that purpose, but I still don't believe that is the majority of users/purchasers of them. Remember, sub ohm is a VERY new thing!
Do as you like, but I still stand by my point that they are usable for more than RBA's! I've been running a Cisco 1.5 ohm on my Legacy for two days with the same 18650, still works, still tastes great and still lots of vapor!
Yes, my Provari is better, you can't beat it's consistency, but I don't feel myself wanting/needing more.
That's my point, they can and do still work for more than sub ohm vaping and RBA's.

 

[gokusnimbus]

The reason people link mechs with sub ohm vaping is because unless you NEED to run a mech to bypass watt/amp limits of regulated devices, the consistency offered by a regulated vape is the more sensible option every time.

This.

To get the most out of your vape, rba/rda is the way to go bc you have full control. want sub-ohm? build it. want standard 2.0 ohms? build it. want something in the middle? build it. dual coils? quad coils? BUILD IT! nothing is as versatile as an rba/rda and thats what i love about it. everyone shares their builds and its pretty cool. same with mechs. can be taken apart and configured to different sizes. they absolutely go hand in hand. if you use a carto-tank thats great too. just another style of vaping to me.

in the end vaping is vaping however you do it.

 

[Ryedan]

When/where did the notion start that if you use a mechanical you have to use an RBA on it?

Can we PLEASE dispel this myth?

I don't remember ever hearing this on ECF or anywhere else. I certainly have never said this.

What I have heard and also said to people is that if you want to use mid and lower sub-ohm coils you have to use a mechanical mod with high drain batteries. I don't think anyone will argue with that.

I think there is a lot of 'why would you' thinking about using a mech with higher ohm coils (or devices) and I agree with that. I get the durability of mechanical mods, but I would still rather have the power consistency of a regulated power supply if I can plus the safety redundancy of a high drain battery in a protected mod. But that's my opinion and hey, whatever works for anyone else is the right thing for them.

 

[unloaded]

I think you worded it wrong.
Once you use a mech with a properly setup RBA, you have to use an RBA on it. There's no going back.

BTW- before I traded my Provari for mechs I used an RBA on it exclusively.

 

[Technonut]

I don't go below 1.0 ohm regardless.. I do know my ProVari runs a Hercules dual-coil @ 1.0 ohm very well.. I can go up to 3.8v with no worry of v-drop. I prefer this consistency, and the built-in safety features over my mechs.. The ProVari's boost circuit is 95% efficient, and the battery life with an 18650 is quite good.

 

[NicoHolic]

Most of the electronic nanny features on regulated mods are there to protect the electronics, not the user, with the exception of the short protection, which is covered by a fuse or hot spring on a mech. Because they drive the batteries so hard at so low of a charge voltage, regulated mods also need undercharge protection, which is the point the electronics say to each other, "Hey we better quit brutalizing the battery before we kill it." That's a situation a mech user is unlikely to even get near.

 

[WheredUfindThis]

I believe what they are saying is that to get the most out of your mech or something that you can't get from a vv mod, you need an RBA. This is in fact true as vv's can't fire SLR atties. Therefore mech mods are only better than your vv mod with an rba with a low ohm coil, this does not mean you need to do any of the above. Mech mods without an rba is a lot like buying an HDTV and watching everything in upscaled standard definition though.

I certainly agree with this. Of course you can use pre-made atomizers with a mech, but that defeats the purpose of performance. The only reason to use a mech vs VV device, RBAs aside, is the sheer beauty of some of these mechanicals. If you prefer to use standard resistance atomizers, why not benefit from the added performance of a VV device? Adjustable voltage, consistent power throughout the life of the battery, resistance and battery meters, and all the built in safety features. The only benefit to mechs, aside from their aesthetics and perhaps switch/locking features, is the ability to run far higher power through your low ohm setups. Of course you don't need to, and high power vaping isn't for everyone. If you just love the look of that certain mech mod and are satisfied with lower powered performance, then so be it. I love analogies, and the HDTV reference is spot-on. If you aren't going to step on the gas, don't buy a sports car. You will get more mileage from a Prius.