Maxi Roughstack v2 switch issues and post mortem- LONG

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oldsoldier

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Before I begin I'd like to make clear that I am posting this as a satisfied madvapes customer, not as an ECF moderator. This post mortem is intended to help any other Roughstack users that might be having switch issues as well as feedback to hoogie. With that in mind I ask that folks don't turn this thread into anything other than it's intent.

Background:
As you may have seen in some other threads here there is an issue where under high voltage vaping the spring in the switch can get hot, melting the plastic straw used to isolate the positive feed from the ground. when this happens the spring may touch against the inside wall of the battery adapter creating a short.

If this happens you can return your Roughstack to service by carefully removing the switch,cleaning the spring and reassembling the Roughstack. I know this because I have done it three times :)

Incident leading to postmortem:
Today I changed batteries and went to take a vape. Rather than getting a nice blast of vapor I got black smoke from the switch.

Postmortem results :
As an experienced helicopter crewchief and general mechanic of all things that fly fast make a lot of noise and make things go boom, I realized that letting the magic smoke escape is a bad thing! So i disassmebled the Roughtack and removed the switch.

Upon further inspection i noted that the plastic straw isolator had burned through and detached itself from the battery adapter, neatly fusing into a crinkly green doughnut of plastic. Inspection of the inner Isolator for the battery adapter center pin showed evidence of scorching, this is likely where the black smoke came from.

Inspection of the switch assembly showed melted plastic fused to the spring which in itself was not unexpected.

Repair attempt:
Noting that the isolator appears to be a length of plastic drinking straw I found a straw of proper diameter and trimmed it to properly fit the inside the battery adapter with the intent to put a small bead of hot glue to ensure it stays in place.

I then inspected and tested the switch to verify it was still working. (It was) Further inspection of the switch showed that the spring would likely touch the plastic straw and melt it again because there was a noticeable "list" to one side.

I gently attempted to straighten the spring and of course it snapped in two places. Inspection of the spring pieces and my experience lead me to believe that this breakage was induced by tempering of the spring form the times it got too hot and melted the plastic. Of course without spending money to have the spring rockwell tested it is just an educated guess.

Analysis of possible solutions for end users:
For those people that wish to "fix" this problem if it occurs on their Roughstack I would recommend that you preform these steps before you mamange to burn an isolator or harden the spring to the point of becoming brittle:

1. Make sure the spring is straight and not too long. If the spring is crooked and long, compressing the spring when you install the switch will push it into the isolator.
2. Carefully reduce the diameter of the spring at the contact end by about 33%. This will reduce the possibility of that end contacting the isolator.

Closing:
I'll probably post again with results after I repair the switch assembly and finish "rebuilding" my Roughstack. If this fails I'll probably order a replacement switch. (or maybe I will just because I like my Roughstack and having a spare switch is not a bad idea).

I have no doubt from my past dealings with MadVapes that hoogie would "make it right" if I were to simply put in a support ticket, but the truth of the matter is that I can probably fix it if I am careful. The only thing wrong with the switch is the spring and the only thing wrong with the "upper" is a missing piece of drinking straw and a slightly scorched pin isolator.
 

grm

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Hoog I had a switch that was acting up on me,(not firing sometimes)I filled out a ticket and you guys replaced my switch for me.Thanks!So I got the replacement installed,worked great for a day,until I threw 6 volts at it,then poof the spring melted and broke,the blue isolater came out and melted,and there was a noticable burn on the board where the spring used to be soldered to.i filled out another ticket,yesterday,tried to install my older misfiring one in it so I could use it,with the straw as the isolator,and its working but seems weaker.Its weird now when I put a volt meter on the 510 connnector im getting like .40 volts when the battery is reading 3.98 volts.Before this all happened the volts would read the same as the battery from this connection.weird huh? Did it burn the 510 connector out too?Am i doing more damage by using it like this?
 

Smogless

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I just posted a solution for the straw in another post but i feel here would be better to share:

I dunno if anyone has posted this but i found a good replacement for the straw and wanted to share. I found that you can use the "condom sleeve" of a cartomizer. The thin one is better I think.
1. Cut it to the length of the straw.
2. then cut it vertically so it unrolls into a long piece.
3. Roll it into a cylinder, test fit into connecter and adjust and cut a lil till it fits nicely while allowing the spring to go in easily.
Once u get it into a long piece like a strip of tape it will all make perfect sense if my explaination is not too clear.
I Hope that helps someone.
 

oldsoldier

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by reducing the end do you mean cutting some off the spring off? or making the diameter on the end smaller? how did you go about doing this? how bout a pic?

I would reduce the length of the spring by a couple coils and tighten the wrap on the last turn of the wire making the spring diameter smaller at the nd. I would post pics but my spring broke* when i tried straightening it.

*well shattered might be a better description.
 

oldsoldier

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I just posted a solution for the straw in another post but i feel here would be better to share:

I dunno if anyone has posted this but i found a good replacement for the straw and wanted to share. I found that you can use the "condom sleeve" of a cartomizer. The thin one is better I think.
1. Cut it to the length of the straw.
2. then cut it vertically so it unrolls into a long piece.
3. Roll it into a cylinder, test fit into connecter and adjust and cut a lil till it fits nicely while allowing the spring to go in easily.
Once u get it into a long piece like a strip of tape it will all make perfect sense if my explaination is not too clear.
I Hope that helps someone.

Sounds like a very good idea. I'll take a look at it when i break out my soldering oiron and replace the spring on my switch
 

arkador

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by reducing the end do you mean cutting some off the spring off? or making the diameter on the end smaller? how did you go about doing this? how bout a pic?

I made the last ring a smaller diameter. I just pinched it slightly, turned it and repeated.

Sent from my Nexus S 4G using Tapatalk
 

oldsoldier

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Update: replaced the spring following my recommendations of shortening/ straightening and making the last coil tighter (smaller)1 and of course the Roughstack works. This is my recommendation for folks that want to use the Roughstack as is with an easily replaceable switch.

I will probably void the warranty of my Roughstack switch and replace the spring with a short piece of wire2,because I think the spring will probably overheat again considering how hard I "heat em up" with long drags at 6.4 and 7.4 volts.

------------------------
1 I think it was arkador that originally came up with the idea of making the last coil smaller.
2 The spring is almost like an atty if you think about it. A decent sized piece of wire should prevent any further issues, especially at 6V + . If you should decide to go this route don't gut a USB cable and use the wire- you'll likely burn it up as well.
 

emus

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awesome info oldsoldier, thanks for posting it..

I know a wire will fix it but then it's not really a user replacable switch anymore.. Excellent info for us to use to improve :)

hoog

That's the route I took.
Too bad everyone doesn't have a soldering iron.
 

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meatsneakers

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My Roughstack was giving me a pretty large voltage drop (down to ~2.9v @ 1.5ohms) for a few days. It turns out the spring was very slightly touching the ground on the connector. I went the same route - wire right to the atty connector and it vapes better than new.

While I had it dismantled, I seperated the switch (it's just a press fit, a bit of wiggling in a vise with get the top and bottom apart), and saw a ton of oxidation on the contacts, a few specs of rust and gummy juice. I cleaned it out, filed the contacts til they were shiny and loaded the switch with some di-electric grease. It improved the feel of the switch and it makes contact every time now. I also added a MV fast change LED while I was in there :)
 

emus

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My Roughstack was giving me a pretty large voltage drop (down to ~2.9v @ 1.5ohms) for a few days. It turns out the spring was very slightly touching the ground on the connector. I went the same route - wire right to the atty connector and it vapes better than new.

While I had it dismantled, I seperated the switch (it's just a press fit, a bit of wiggling in a vise with get the top and bottom apart), and saw a ton of oxidation on the contacts, a few specs of rust and gummy juice. I cleaned it out, filed the contacts til they were shiny and loaded the switch with some di-electric grease. It improved the feel of the switch and it makes contact every time now. I also added a MV fast change LED while I was in there :)

Sounds good.

So the switch isn't sealed?

I think the replacement switch costs $6.49?

C&K Components 3A Black Pushbutton switch

My RS is still working perfect since I replaced spring w/ wire; probably wouldn't hurt to order a spare switch just in case..
 

emus

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Its sealed but just by compression, so working it back and forth will separate the two halves. I also have an extra switch on hand but aside from a plastic melting short, these can be cleaned up and re-sealed to perform like new.

How did juice enter your switch?
From top or wicked in through body wall.
 

oldsoldier

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We are actually working on a new design for the spring and cap that will stop all of these issues.

great news. Even with its minor design quirks (easily remedied by a "handy" person) I still think the RoughStack is a good rugged device for folks that want to try 6V. It doesn't hurt that you can pound nails with it and run it over with the truck and it will still vape :)
 
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