Is 3.7v better then 3.7 volts

[Nomoreash]

That was my initial impression as well. However, a battery's ability to source current is often measured using a C-rating that is based off of the mAh. Many batteries have a 1C rating and would then be able to produce 1A of current (with a 1000 mAh battery). A larger mAh battery with the same C-rating will be able to produce more current (2000 mAh at 1C is 2A). So, if the C-rating is constant between two batteries, the larger mAh battery will be able to deliver more power. I'm a bit new at this so maybe I'm getting it wrong, but that is my understanding of the subject.

That's true for the most part. If no one fidged on the mAh rating, I was initially talking about the ops question to voltage. Take AW vs the Fires in the same size. The Fires will usually be STAMPED with a higher mAh rating. The flashlight forums have done lots of test on these and it's pretty much came to the conclusion across the board AW is rated truer and will preform just as good or better in amp load test. Then we have IMR vs Li-Ion, at the same size the IMR will usually have a lower mAh capacity but a higher c rating.

 

[RIMP]

Now, as to WHY? I've often wondered about the motivation to PWM the eGo batteries. Regulating the voltage curve, or extending the battery life?

To regulate the voltage curve, they'd have to monitor the voltage output and adjust the PWM. OTOH, if they just use a fixed-timing pulse to maximize battery life while heating the atty..... it would still have a curve to it, just shifted lower. Anyone ever monitor what the circuit does over time?

P.S. Mods have other advantages. Like swappable $5.00 batteries. Change em out when the battery goes bad. Have a stack of spares and an external charger. No "downtime" for charging. Not quite what the OP was asking, but still battery related. So even if RIVA voltage = mod voltage, there are other factors.

I agree with you attypops I use mods at home and the Riva's when out and about. Good sub and weigh much less and attract fewer stares I just recommend them for a better "hit" if someone's not ready for a mod.
RIMP

 

[alongo]

What is a good true 3.7 mod and does anyone make 4.2vo
mod???

 

[Nomoreash]

What is a good true 3.7 mod and does anyone make 4.2vo
mod???

A 3.7 mod is unregulated so it would be dependent on the battery. You might get close to 4.2 right off the charger. There are tons of 3.7 mods out. A great bang for the buck is the Roughstack or Maxi Roughstack.

There are no 4.2 regulated mods, 5.0 is the only regulated fixed voltage I'm aware of. You can get 4.2 regulated with a variable volt mod as well as the ability to adjust it to any volt you want to within it's range. that's what I'd ultimately recommened and there are some great choices out from the less expensive plastic box mods to the Provari, Darwin and wood mods with a feeding system.

 

[wrigleyvillain]

What is a good true 3.7 mod and does anyone make 4.2vo
mod???

That's like asking what's a good ice cream but here is a pretty good one, especially with it's present sale price. Just picked one up plus 2 batteries and a charger from dealextreme in China for $13. If you have good soldering skills Mad Vapes has cheaper ones you assemble yourself.

 

[CraigHB]

I wanted to comment on someting said, but dont' feel like quoting, so excuse me for that.

There's a good reason some of these mass production devices are regulated. There is a definite advantage even though you're vaping with less power, which means less throat hit and vapor production. The big advantage is consistency. One thing I've found sort of annoying when using an unregulated mod is the way performance falls off as the battery discharges. A regulated device solves that problem. Taking it up a notch, a VV device solves the problem as well, but without sacrificing any performance. The down side of a VV device is the expense.

So, the eGo (and other devices like it), give you that advantage of a consistent vape with an inexpensive device. To get your performance out these devices, you need to go lower in resistance. Though, lower resistance does work the device harder. That results in shorter longevity. The electronics may fail at some point and the battery wears out faster because you have to charge more frequently. However, these types of battery units are fairly inexpensive so it's nothing to get too hung up on.

 

[JD1]

It seems much better to regulate at 3.2 V or so, as eGo apparently does. THEN, use a slightly lower resistance atomizer to make up for the voltage difference so the power (watts) comes out the same. Then you get a consistent vape over the battery charge life (8 hours or so.) without the 25% wattage drop as the battery voltage drops. This is what I want.

I think you nailed it, but another thing that comes into play here is when your favorite atty or carto doesn't quite match the battery you are using. Oddly enough, high voltage paired with high ohms often does taste different than low voltage/low ohm altho the wattage is close. But by and large I think you're right, and it's mostly finding your 'sweet spot' wattage and finding the equipment to deliver it at a price you can live with.

 

[EtherMagic]

The only 2 mass produced Ecigs I read about that put out 3.7 or over and stay there, are the Echo and Riva. From everthing I read (from those who own it), the Echo is the most consistant with staying over 3.7 (which is why I order 4 of em! Hoping the arrive today ).



Good luck

 

[Gestalt]

The only 2 mass produced Ecigs I read about that put out 3.7 or over and stay there, are the Echo and Riva. From everthing I read (from those who own it), the Echo is the most consistant with staying over 3.7 (which is why I order 4 of em! Hoping the arrive today ).



Good luck

I've been reading about the volt. It seems to stay at 3.7. I'm not sure how the E-power does over its charge, but it is another possible option.