How I managed a very short stiff throw in my Nemesis with 2mm ss magnets.

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TDC123

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The subject of the 2mm ss magnets that can be purchased from a vendor on ebay for about 5 bucks shipped has came up in a few threads lately. After reading about all the thin magnets breaking and the issues with the spring I ordered these when I ordered my first hcigar clone. The magnets are super tough. I can't imagine breaking one but they take up so much room in the switch that you have to leave the pin backed out a few turns for them to fire. That gets annoying. As the srews back out, and they will back out, the device starts leaning hard and the throw is quite long. It becomes a sloppy switch and can bind from time to time when you fire it. A slightly longer firing pin would have solved that but none were to be readily found, at least by me anyway. The fat daddy pin upgrade will not help the situation with these thick magnets at all.

So I took a tour of all the local harware stores to find a suitable screw. That turned out to be difficult and it became cleanr I was going to have to do some southern engineering to get this working. I purchased a 3/8" inch long number 10 solid brass screw with 32 count threads and appropriate washers. Without the washers the head of the screw would pass through the brass portion of the switch. Make sure your washers are small enough to fit inside the plastic housing on the switch as well.

This is working on all my Nemesis clones but mine are all hcigar clones. YMMV.

These are the magnets.

2mmmagnets.jpg

Here is what you need. That's 600 grit sandpaper. It's what I had so it's what I used. I cheated and ground the screw heads most of the way down with a bench grinder. Brass is so soft though it wouldn't be hard to do with the file.

itemsnneded.jpg

Once you have it pretty close with the file you will find it easier the get the firing pin smooth and even on top if you mount it in the switch base for finish sanding on the sand paper.

sandingpringpininbase.jpg

We also want to smooth out the unerside of the screw head. We just want to hit it enough to remove and burrs or edges. We want as much contact as we can get from all metal surfaces.

sandingundersideofpin.jpg

We also want to smooth upe both sides of the washer. Here's an after and then the before.

brasswashersbeforeandaftersanding.jpg
 
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TDC123

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Here's a rough before and after of the firing pin. I worked on mine a bit more the get the surface of the screw that mates with the negative pole on the battery smoother and flatter. You don't want high spots if you can help it.

sideviewbrassfiringpenbeforeandafter.jpg
brasspinbeforeandaftersanding.jpg

Here the switch is resting.

switchcloseupresting.jpg

Here it is firing.

switchcloseupfiring.jpg

Again with the switch resting.

switchrestingunattached.jpg
 

TDC123

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And again here it is when firing.

switchfingunattached.jpg

Here are my two Nemesis, one with a full Kayfun clone and one with a Fogger. Both are completely full and there isn't near enough weight on the device to make it fire. Now I have a very short and stiff throw with zero binding. The nemesis easily stands without wobbling. The locking ring only needs a quick sping to engage or disengage.

sidebysidenemesis.jpg

I now finally have the switch I've wanted from the beginning. Maybe this will someone else to do the same.

TC
 

asdaq

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Nicely done and good find on the screw size. I know it is what you had handy but I would polish it up more with successive grades of sandpaper as the smoother the surface the easier it is to clean the contacts later. If you can see scratches, then the corrosion has a place to get a foothold. A nice mirror finish can be had with 2000 grit.

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