[HELP] Atty isn't getting full power on Seven-30

[NickWhit1992]

So out of nowhere the other night, my Seven-30 seems to have lost a lot of power. The screen says it's putting out 30 watts, but there's no way my coils are getting that much power. I had a 0.6 ohm build that was putting out tons of nice warm vapor on my Helios, put it down for a while, picked it up again and it put out less vapor than a gas station ecig. Switched over to my Fogger, which usually burns the vapor at 30w, and it did the same thing. So I stripped my Helios, built a 1.5, and tried it on my Seven-30 at "30 watts" with a fresh battery, then on my iTaste VV v3 at 11 watts. It heats up quicker and glows a lot brighter on the iTaste. What's going on here? Is my Seven-30 done for, or is this possibly something I can remedy?

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I'm sure your judgement is dead on, but do you have a way of testing voltage on and off load? Like with an inline meter or multimeter? It may give you some insight. I don't have a Seven-30 I'm sure others will be here soon.

EDIT: I'm wondering if anything changes at a meter as you adjust from 30 watts down

 

[NickWhit1992]

I'm not sure how to test it with the multimeter from my tool chest, because it won't fire without a coil on it.

 

[NickWhit1992]

And I assume by inline, you mean something with a 510 connection installed between the mod and the atty, right?

 

[MrPlink]

And I assume by inline, you mean something with a 510 connection installed between the mod and the atty, right?

That be dem

 

[NickWhit1992]

That be dem

Well shoot. I don't have one of those lying around. Guess I'm probably outta luck for a while, since that's likely the first place to start in diagnosing my problem. I'll definitely be adding one to my vape kit after this though. Oh well, I get paid in a few hours anyway, and one of the SX350 mods on EBay recently caught my eye. Maybe this is my sign that it's time to upgrade.

 

[GeorgeWachsmuth]

Did you try adjusting the 510 screw pin on the Seven 30?

 

[NickWhit1992]

Something I've just noticed, is that the resistance reading changes every time I hit the fire button, but that's not happening on my iTaste.

 

[AnsonJames]

What kind of battery are you using?
I've also seen bad chips that only output a certain voltage/wattage - you need to meter it or get one of those tank volt meters.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

If your take the cap off of your helios for example

Take your multimeter pins and place one against the positive, and one against the negative. You'll want your multimeter set to voltage. Mine allows for choice of resolution: 20, 200, etc. Pick 200 or equivalent if you have it. With the probes against the positive and negative posts hit the fire button.

Yes this requires three hands in a sense, and you have to be careful! You can create a short. If you have some around to help that's the safest bet. Or have any alligator clips?

 

[NickWhit1992]

What kind of battery are you using?
I've also seen bad chips that only output a certain voltage/wattage - you need to meter it or get one of those tank volt meters.

I'm using an MNKE IMR 26650 on it.

If your take the cap off of your helios for example

Take your multimeter pins and place one against the positive, and one against the negative. You'll want your multimeter set to voltage. Mine allows for choice of resolution: 20, 200, etc. Pick 200 or equivalent if you have it. With the probes against the positive and negative posts hit the fire button.

Yes this requires three hands in a sense, and you have to be careful! You can create a short. If you have some around to help that's the safest bet. Or have any alligator clips?

The chip won't fire unless it detects a resistance of at least 0.5. Could I maybe twist a positive coil leg around the positive multimeter lead, and stick the negative multimeter lead to the positive post to create a complete circuit?

 

[NickWhit1992]

Did you try adjusting the 510 screw pin on the Seven 30?

Yeah, doesn't help. Still acts wonky.

 

[Cyrus Vap]

I'm using an MNKE IMR 26650 on it.

The chip won't fire unless it detects a resistance of at least 0.5. Could I maybe twist a positive coil leg around the positive multimeter lead, and stick the negative multimeter lead to the positive post to create a complete circuit?

I meant the positive and negative of your ready to go atty, sorry I wasn't clear! Just pop the cap off and apply leads to pos and negative post (either negative post works if there are two on a dual coil set up)

 

[NickWhit1992]

I meant the positive and negative of your ready to go atty, sorry I wasn't clear! Just pop the cap off and apply leads to pos and negative post (either negative post works if there are two on a dual coil set up)

Lol I feel pretty dumb right now. I should have realized that. If it can run through multiple coils, obviously it'll go through the multimeter with a coil on there. That was a brain fart on my part. Thanks for clarifying, I dunno how long it would have taken me to realize that on my own.

Sent from my HTC One

 

[NickWhit1992]

Also, I'm pretty sure a dude in another thread gave me the cause of my problem. There's a small spring in the early model 510 connectors, pretty sure mine is shot. Now I have to figure out how to open the damn thing.

Sent from my HTC One

 

[NickWhit1992]

Alright, thanks to 35OZMO, I got it disassembled. No spring, turns out a chip on the board is partially fried. After further investigation once I reassembled it, I've discovered that I have highest power when I set it to 7.4w. My multimeter reads it as 3.73-3.75v with a 1.6 ohm coil, but at every other level I tried it at reads 3.12v, including at 30w. My iTaste reads it as 1.5 ohms, and at 11w gets 3.53-3.55v. I'll try it again later with a subohm coil and see what happens there.



Sent from my HTC One