FREE switch for flashlight MODS

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Rocketman

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May 3, 2009
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Flashlights mods typically use the ....-Switch as a master click on/click off switch or replace it with a nice $2 or $3 switch. Then another $1 to $2 momentary switch is mounted up front. An LED is usually installed to tell the user he forgot and left the power on or voltage is too low to produce any vapor (duh).

I have been using the click on/click off .... switch that is already in the cheap flashlights as a Free momentary vape switch. Having only one switch isn't 'that' unsafe IMO because it takes about a pound of force to actuate, and you can't 'forget' and leave it on. The little momentary switches (with the pretty red buttons) only take about 3 to 4 ounces to actuate.

Another 'Safety' advantage, again IMO, is the Free ....-Switch will 'Blowout' the back of the flashlight pretty darn easily. Vent holes can also be added. If the front of the flashlight is strongly constructed, then battery failure won't blow an atty down your throat.

Starting from the upper left of the attached photo you see two side contacts that have been bent upwards right about through the holes.
Below that the two 'ballpointpen' plastic pieces. I cut the side 'nubs' off the smaller piece to eliminate the ballpointpen 'click'.
To the right, the switch cover 'side blocks' have been trimmed at an angle toward the cushion/travel limit made from a 808D-1 cap. This helps to form the side contacts and prevent overtravel of the center button. The pen parts have also been drilled to accept the thumbtack on the right sideof the photo and is a 'comfort button' if installed correctly. A little epoxy holds the thumbtack. The switch spring has been cut to about 6 to 7 coils and stretched a little. The second photo shows the assembled (need to straighten it up before the glue sets) with a couple of small vent holes drilled in the switch holder. As you can see, even though the whole assembly is taken out of the flashlight toward the front, the switch actually moves out in a rearward direction.

I have used this switch mod for almost a year on several flashlights and am very satisfied.

Rocket
 
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Rocketman

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May 3, 2009
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SouthEastern Louisiana
I take the battery carrier out of the flashlight.
Then place it nose down on a wooden board.
Then place a socket that will fit through the hole and 3 inch extension over the switch,
and tap with a hammer or push on the extension with you hand.
Don't push directly on the back or you will be pushing on the button and damage it.
The switch WILL come out of the screw on back and fall into the flashlight body.
A boxcutter blade cut now be used to pry the switch out of the plastic holder, and also to disassemble the switch. Be careful.
If you think it would help I could get up off my lazy .... and go take a photo.

Rocket
 

Rocketman

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May 3, 2009
2,649
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SouthEastern Louisiana
Yes, I put a socket and push from the rubber side. If you push flat against the switch it will cut a whole in the rubber piece.
The 4 holes are added vents I put in. This hopefully will allow any pressure to push the switch out the back.

The button? The red thingy? is a cheap thumbtack. I drill a little hole in the plastic "ballpointpen"parts and glue the thumbtack (cut the sharp pointy point down in length).
 

Rocketman

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ECF Veteran
May 3, 2009
2,649
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SouthEastern Louisiana
Thanks,
I'll wrap this up by saying that a single momentary switch on a 3.7 volt big battery mod can still be relatively safe if it is well thought out.
The switch end needs to be the weak link. Vent and blow out.
Actuation force needs to be much more than the weight of the MOD, but not uncomfortably hard. These typically finish at about a pound of force.
The switch needs to have a current rating at least ?, I have no idea what the current rating of this switch is operated this way. I have shorted out a mod like this (accidental) and fried the negative contact spring, but switch was fine. And like I said earlier, I made the first two in April of last year and both of those still work.

Rocket
 
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