First time rebuilding?

[alexuhjane]

I don't want to hurt myself or vape pen so I fuigured I better just ask before I started wrapping wire around things
I'm planning on rebuilding the coil in a protank 2 mini.
What wire should I invest in for the coil?
Should I use cotton or silica wick? - I read that cotton balls work? Just pull a piece off and twist it?
Should I get an ohm meter? When I test my coil, what should the ohms be?
I have an ego-t 1300 battery, just in case that helps any.

I appreciate any advice you give! Thanks!

 

[RubyRoo]

First of all, get an Ohms reader. This will help you keep your builds safe. Also have a solid understanding of Ohm's Law. Now, this is how I rebuild my Protank heads:

5 wraps of 32 gauge kanthal on a 1/16th drill bit. This always gives me 1.7 Ohms. I don't squish mine into a micro coil because I find that I don't need to. Then I use a little organic cotton through the coil, enough so that as you pull it through, you should feel some resistance. Then I put a small flavor wick on top as this helps prevent flooding. Trim the wicks to the edge of the cup.

There are a ton of videos on Youtube about how to rebuild them using this method or similar ones. I like using cotton because I feel the flavor is better, and once the coil starts going bad, you can slide out the old cotton, and easily insert the new cotton. Bam, new head. Always prime your wicks with e-liquid and allow it to soak in for awhile. There is no grosser flavor in vaping than burnt cotton.

Also, many folks will suggest using a higher gauged wire, but I have found that this FRIES the rubber insulator inside the head. 32 gauge is much gentler on the insulator and extends it's life a little bit.

Hope this helps!

 

[bertfelin]

Speaking as a protank owner. all protanks has the design flaw which is the center pin air hole. as the age gos, the rubber thing at the bottom of the coil gets old and become harder, it can no longer holding the juice so it will flood the center pin of your MOD.

I would suggest you just go get a RDA instead. easy to coil easy to wick. taste, cloud production, all better than kanger.

I was using Silica wick but now i only use cotton. it's cheap, easy to made (less than a minute), it work best with micro coil, most importantly it's natural material so no need to worry about sucking silica into your lungs and i am sure you don't want that.

For Coil i use Kanthal A-1 30 guage. you can get 50ft under $10 via fleabay.

So if you are thinking of rebuilding a coil for Protank, you should move to real RBA/RDA's. I can't believe how many hours i wasted on building these protank's coil. If i went with RBA/RDA the first place.

 

[bertfelin]

 

[alexuhjane]

speaking as a protank owner. all protanks has the design flaw which is the center pin air hole. as the age gos, the rubber thing at the bottom of the coil gets old and become harder, it can no longer holding the juice so it will flood the center pin of your MOD.

I would suggest you just go get a RDA instead. easy to coil easy to wick. taste, cloud production, all better than kanger.

I was using Silica wick but now i only use cotton. it's cheap, easy to made (less than a minute), it work best with micro coil, most importantly it's natural material so no need to worry about sucking silica into your lungs and i am sure you don't want that.

for Coil i use Kanthal A-1 30 guage. you can get 50ft under $10 via fleabay.

Can you suggest a good RDA? I'm so afraid of picking something out and having it turn out to be dumpy. haha

 

[bertfelin]

Can you suggest a good RDA? I'm so afraid of picking something out and having it turn out to be dumpy. haha

I would say go with a iGo-W type of the RDA with a Hex screw for coil. something like this. you wrap your coil and insert both ends it into each hole from both post and screw it down.

 

[alexuhjane]

I would say go with a iGo-W type of the RDA with a Hex screw for coil. something like this. you wrap your coil and insert both ends it into each hole from both post and screw it down.

Is this just for dripping? I'd hate to be picky but I really like the idea of having a tank to hold my juice. I'll definitely look into it though

 

[bertfelin]

Is this just for dripping? I'd hate to be picky but I really like the idea of having a tank to hold my juice. I'll definitely look into it though

Yes it's Dripping. I have own a few tanks. what i can tell you is there's no tank without a single issue. The next tank to perfect, if you would insist going with a tank, i would suggest kayfun lite+

But just be aware of because these RBAs are more complex in design, more things you need to be keep you eye on when you do the rebuilding.

Once again, I still highly recommend RDAs to you to start with.

 

[alexuhjane]

Yes it's Dripping. I have own a few tanks. what i can tell you is there's no tank without a single issue. The next tank to perfect, if you would insist going with a tank, i would suggest kayfun lite+

But just be aware of because these RBAs are more complex in design, more things you need to be keep you eye on when you do the rebuilding.

Once again, I still highly recommend RDAs to you to start with.

I think I'll order an IGO-W and a protank. Best of both worlds! Then I can drip and rebuild, or have a tank for when I need it.
Thanks for the input.

 

[bertfelin]

I think I'll order an IGO-W and a protank. Best of both worlds! Then I can drip and rebuild, or have a tank for when I need it.
Thanks for the input.

if you have the money for a protank, spend a few more to get a kayfun lite+, you won't be regret.

protank's coil is such a pain in the ... to rebuilt, plus the flooding issue, that's why i gave it away to my fd

 

[alexuhjane]

if you have the money for a protank, spend a few more to get a kayfun lite+, you won't be regret.

protank's coil is such a pain in the ... to rebuilt, plus the flooding issue, that's why i gave it away to my fd

The protank I was looking at was only $20, the Kayfun was $100. I wish I had a huge budget but unfortunately, I don't. Gotta start saving up to get some good pieces!

 

[bertfelin]

The protank I was looking at was only $20, the Kayfun was $100. I wish I had a huge budget but unfortunately, I don't. Gotta start saving up to get some good pieces!

get a kayfun clone from fasttech, even the shipment takes 3 weeks to arrive but it cost only 30 bucks.

 

[RubyRoo]

Just have to .... in one more time. I own all three of the devices that have been mentioned in this thread already, the Protank Mini, the KFL+ and the Igo-W. I like all of them for different reasons and all are easily rebuildable. I first started rebuilding with my Protank heads and I really feel like if that's what you have for now, and you don't really want to dive in to the deep end quite yet, you have an easy platform to learn on. I suggest just trying out what you have now, and go from there. See if you like rebuilding first, then get into the nuances of building drippers and Kayfuns later. You don't need to spend a lot of money on a good vape, just some patience and some time. Again, if you stick to the build that I recommended in my earlier post, I think that you will be very happy, without complicating things too much, at least to start. Like I said, I cut my teeth with rebuilding on the Protanks and it's a great way to start.

 

[bender817]

I wouldn't recommend a KFL or Russian to anyone without a variable voltage/wattage mod, and I wouldn't recommend an RDA to anyone that doesn't have a mechanical mod and a high drain battery. alexuhjane, if you plan on sticking with your eGo for awhile just rebuild your protank coils with 32 gauge kanthal like RubyRoo said. That was good advice. If you are set on getting a RBA, get an Igo-L or something that you can build single coils in, and stick with 32 gauge wire because the eGo wont have a problem heating it up.

 

[rob33]

Is this just for dripping? I'd hate to be picky but I really like the idea of having a tank to hold my juice. I'll definitely look into it though

It really depends on what pvd you are using. If you have a ego setup you may be better off with the Protank for rebuilding. If you are searching for a lot better experience, a vv or vw setup with a rba or rda designed to be rebuilt may be in your future. I'll warn you, once you start dripping it's hard to give it up.