RDA First RDA & Mech mod otw! Freakshow + 4Nine clone

[Bjorhyn]

Ok so I just got my 4nine clone in the mail and I need to post this here to make sure I'm not crazy. Is this thing really this small?? Is this full 18650 mode??
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Also, I screwed my subtank mini into the hybrid top cap and this is what it looks like. It appears that the 510 pin of the subtank mini does not protrude far enough past the threads to avoid a short. Am I right in assuming this?

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Haha, yea. That's one of the advantages of hybrids. The end up looking much more compact than standard top mods.

I would guess that looks a little too short, if you view it from the side does it protrude past the cap rim? I can't tell from those pictures

 

[jj6404]

Haha, yea. That's one of the advantages of hybrids. The end up looking much more compact than standard top mods.

I would guess that looks a little too short, if you view it from the side does it protrude past the cap rim? I can't tell from those pictures

By cap rim, do you mean the most protruding edge of the mom's hybrid cap?
And by it do you mean the subtank 510 pin?

I still can't believe how small this thing is. When I first opened it I thought they didn't ship all the pieces.

 

[Bjorhyn]

By cap rim, do you mean the most protruding edge of the mom's hybrid cap?
And by it do you mean the subtank 510 pin?

I still can't believe how small this thing is. When I first opened it I thought they didn't ship all the pieces.

Yes to both. My fault, I should have clarified.

Bahaha, I know the feeling.
The SMPL is very similar, and surprised me with how tiny it was compared to most of my mechs.

 

[readeuler]

Just make sure that the positive pin (looks like brass in the pics) extends beyond the threading of the atomizer; a good millimeter at least is ideal (on my SMPL, my stillare works and its pin extends by about the width of 28ga wire, which is about 0.321 mm and it's kinda making me uncomfortable now that I realize it...)

Also, since it's kind of a stock tank: if you press on the positive brass pin, can it be squished in at all? If so, do NOT use it on the 4nine. Stock tanks sometimes have insulators keeping the pin protruding; apply to much pressure (possible by hitting the fire button) and you're looking at a short circuit because the positive pin can sink too close to the threads.

 

[jj6404]

Yes to both. My fault, I should have clarified.

Bahaha, I know the feeling.
The SMPL is very similar, and surprised me with how tiny it was compared to most of my mechs.

Yes? No? It's so close I can't even tell. Is that bad?

 

[readeuler]

Yes? No? It's so close I can't even tell. Is that bad?

I googled "subtank hybrid mech" and returned this. I didn't watch the video, or read the thread, but it seems pretty relevant here.

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...ger_subtank_mini_shorting_out_on_hybrids_fix/

I'll go into detail, if you know this, ignore

With a hybrid, aka "batt to atty" mech, the battery is pushed up so the positive top of the battery comes directly into contact with atomizer pin (brass in your pic); in a working circuit, they're both positively charged.

The current does it's thing at the coil, and flows into the base of the atty, then down the threads, into the body of the mech returning to the switch and bottom of the battery; these areas should be exclusively negatively charged.

The thing about these hybrids is that if the positive pin on the atty doesn't extend far enough past the negative threads on the atty, the battery could touch both. That's a hard short, causing a LOT of current to flow; certainly exceeding the CDR of the battery.

So that's why you've got to be careful. Read that reddit thread to see what people are saying, one person claimed it did indeed cause a short with their mod (though they didn't say if it was a hybrid and I don't know off hand).

Watch the video to see if you can rig something up to get that pin protrudin' good, it's probably worth the trouble.

 

[jj6404]

I googled "subtank hybrid mech" and returned this. I didn't watch the video, or read the thread, but it seems pretty relevant here.

http://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_...ger_subtank_mini_shorting_out_on_hybrids_fix/

I'll go into detail, if you know this, ignore

With a hybrid, aka "batt to atty" mech, the battery is pushed up so the positive top of the battery comes directly into contact with atomizer pin (brass in your pic); in a working circuit, they're both positively charged.

The current does it's thing at the coil, and flows into the base of the atty, then down the threads, into the body of the mech returning to the switch and bottom of the battery; these areas should be exclusively negatively charged.

The thing about these hybrids is that if the positive pin on the atty doesn't extend far enough past the negative threads on the atty, the battery could touch both. That's a hard short, causing a LOT of current to flow; certainly exceeding the CDR of the battery.

So that's why you've got to be careful. Read that reddit thread to see what people are saying, one person claimed it did indeed cause a short with their mod (though they didn't say if it was a hybrid and I don't know off hand).

Watch the video to see if you can rig something up to get that pin protrudin' good, it's probably worth the trouble.

Hmm.. I'm not sure if it is worth it. Do you think that filling the thread down might cause some problems down the road with other mods? Idk. I'm a newbie but I can't believe that modifying something that is working just fine as it's designed to won't have some sort of repercussions.

Maybe I'll just wait. I don't have my batteries yet anyway. And I do have both a Paragon and freakshow atty on the way lol. The subtank mini does look so sleek when screwed onto this 4nine though :/...

 

[readeuler]

Ah, filing down threads? Yeah, seems a bit excessive. Like I said, I didn't watch the video (I assumed they just popped an extra insulator in or something), sorry

I would indeed just wait for the freak show. But I'm biased against tanks, RDAs are all I use

No worries, you're asking good questions and being appropriately cautious IMO, so more power to you.

 

[jj6404]

Good point.



Thanks. Yeah, one of my concerns was leaking into those air holes.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to insert a picture here posting from my iPhone but I got my freakshow in today and did a quick nasty dual coil build (26 gauge kanthal 8 wraps around 3mm screwdriver) that read 0.7 ohms on my iStick 30W.

Anyway I'm sure I f'ed up because when I pulsed them, one of the coils was heating up about 2 seconds faster than the other. Either way they both take a good 4 seconds to heat up at 22 watts. Any guesses to where I went wrong?

 

[jj6404]

Well, obviously you want the coils directly over the airflow holes on the deck, but it also helps, IMO, to keep the cotton touching the barrel and going around the circumference of the deck. The cotton is in the juice well, but then after I put the barrel back on, I also pushed it up a little bit on the outer edge of the deck to keep liquid from getting into the air holes.

This is my current build, using 24 gauge wire. I drip it through the top cap, so my drops land near the open center area there before soaking into the wicks

I took this picture a few weeks ago while in the middle of vaping it, after someone else on the forums asked me a question. I can get some better pics next time I am using that RDA.

I'm having trouble figuring out how to insert a picture here posting from my iPhone but I got my freakshow in today and did a quick nasty dual coil build (26 gauge kanthal 8 wraps around 3mm screwdriver) that read 0.7 ohms on my iStick 30W.

Anyway I'm sure I f'ed up because when I pulsed them, one of the coils was heating up about 2 seconds faster than the other. Either way they both take a good 4 seconds to heat up at 22 watts. Any guesses to where I went wrong?