Dead rabbit v3 Safe for Hybrids right

[The60WattGUY]

Sorry for posting again guys..
I got my first mech in the mail today
So im about it set it up ...i
wanna use my dead rabbit v3 cause its same company and color as my trishul v2 so i think itll be sexy,
did some research all revieuwers say its hybrid safe but to me the pin doesnt protude that far????
they are all created equal right?
the reason i say doesnt protude far is because my tengu rda has way taller pin...
because i guess since its safe i should be ok still?
ill see if i can take a picture of it so ill edit my post if i do

just wanna be safe

Edit: i took pictures of it see the difference? They both say are hybrid safe are they really?
I hope the gold one dead rabbit v3 is because its not adjustable but hellvape and revieuwers do say its safe but its short so not a defect right?

 

[ShowMeTwice]

@The60WattGUY the 510 pin on your Dead Rabbit is FINE to use with a hybrid mech mod.

How do I know?

Firstly, I vape on hybrid and non-hybrid mechs daily.

Secondly, I have years of experience with many mech mods.

Here are a few of my rba's that I use on hybrids with no problems whatsoever. Note the 510 pins on each and how far they protrude from the 510 assembly. As you can see, each 510 pin protrudes differently.

Left to right: FLVR RDA, Venom R RDA, Dvarw RTA, Creek RDA and an Apex RDA.

Already named the first three... the last is a Venna RDA.

As you can plainly see the Atmizoo Creek RDA 510 pin is the shortest (~0.7mm). The Vicious Ant 510 is the longest and its pin is just over 1mm.

All of those RBA's work great on my hybrid mechs. In fact the Atmizoo Creek RDA (shortest 510 pin) was designed to work on their hybrid Lab mech mod. No one has ever reported an issue with the Atmizoo Creek on a hybrid mech mod!!!

The Dvarw FL's were redesigned to be more hybrid mech safe by using a PEEK insulator where the 510 pin screws into the base.

I do not know anything about the Dead Rabbit and can only go on your photo. Having said that, I would not hesitate using it on any of my hybrid mech mods. Also, I see what looks like a PEEK insulator that the DR 510 pin screws into. That is an excellent design feature!!!

The key thing with knowing if an RBA is safe to use with a hybrid mech mod is - - - does the 510 pin protrude. If it does then you are good to go. If the 510 pin is level with or recessed into the 510 assembly then - - - NEVER, EVER - - - use it on a hybrid mech!!! Simple.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

And please do some more research on mech mods before you jump in! And make sure that you get advice from people very knowledgeable about them!

Totally agree Mate!!! 100%

@The60WattGUY the first questions you should ask anyone who is offering mech mod advice are...

"Are you a daily mech user?" and "What is your actual mech experience?"

If they are not a mech user - - - you can safely ignore most of their advice. Other than the most BASIC "known and accepted knowledge" they've found on the internet.

There are quite a few very experienced mech users on ECF. Sadly I haven't seen many of them posting in the last year (or more).

 

[ShowMeTwice]

but dont batteries always get warm in mechs how do I know if its normal warm vs abnormal dangerous warm?

A battery will get warm to potentially hot if you are chain vaping.

With normal vaping my mechs do not get hot. With chain vaping my mechs have not gotten hot.
I've yet to experience a mech mod feeling too warm or hot.

If you notice your mech getting hot (abnormal) then you are driving your mech too hard. Likely from too low of a build in your RBA. Or it is an older battery nearing its end-of-life.

The solutions: Use a higher build in your RBA. Use known good batteries in your mech mods.

I rarely build lower than 0.4Ω on a mech mod. Never do I go below 0.3Ω.
IMO, there is NO NEED to build lower on a mech. Respectfully, some do build very low and have zero issues. However the majority of those people are VERY EXPERIENCED mech users.

As a brand new mech user I would NEVER start out building lower than 0.5Ω. As experience is gained then build lower (if desired).

Do not get hung up on the actual temperature of your battery. No mech mod can tell you the actual temp of your battery under use. Furthermore no vaper that I know of has actual lab gear to measure the temp of a battery. So take that 20°C nonsense with a complete and total "grain of salt". Also, I would not be concerned with 30°-40°C either.

As long as you are NOT exceeding Mooch's recommended temperatures on your batteries you are fine and within range. Mooch IS widely known as the battery expert within the vaping industry.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

@The60WattGUY

Mech use and safety comes down to - - - the person using the mech. Your "awareness" needs to be 100% there!!!

There are no safety features on a mech mod (as found on regulated mods).

Regular maintenance of your mech mod is not an option - - - it IS a REQUIREMENT.

I clean my mech mods before I use them, always. This means cleaning every part of a mech (including all threads). Any dirt will degrade the quality of the vape.

Always - - - ALWAYS - - - make 100% certain your batteries are good and safe. If there are any nicks or tears in a battery wrap - - - DO NOT USE IT - - - replace the battery wrap.

Always make 100% certain the 510 threading on your RBA is clean (it's part of the circuit).

Always build and test your RBA on a regulated mod. Vape the RBA on the regulated mod for a few minutes or so to make certain it is working properly.

As you gain experience with a mech mod you will know when your battery IS NOT delivering the wattage you expect. Over time you will notice less than what you expect of a hit (less vapor). That's when it's time to change your battery.

As a new mech mod user I would recommend changing your battery sooner than you might think. Why? Strictly for safety reasons. When you pop the battery in your charger it will show you what the current voltage is (depending on the charger).

I can tell when a battery is nearing it's low by the quality of vape. When I pull a battery and pop it on a charger they usually read ~3.6V. I never push a battery in a mech mod to low V's.

In my opinion, with a good clean mech mod, an RBA with a known good build and known good batteries mech mods are very safe to use. I've never had any problems or issues with using mechs.

 

[ShowMeTwice]

That king mech is one sexy mech

Thanks!!! I've had it for a long time. Still use it regularly.

I have many mech mods. Tubes and squonkers. But I also enjoy vaping on my regulated mods. At any given time I have 7-10 setups in rotation.

If you like your hybrid mech, and if you don't mind my suggesting one???, try to find a dotMod Petri Lite 24mm hybrid mech. 24mm because you prefer larger RDA's. I have a couple of the 22mm Petri Lite's. They hit nice and hard. Very well built. Not weighty. Very nice fire button. Well designed.

I was able to find mine on-sale. I don't know, perhaps if you look around the EU you might be able to find some and maybe on-sale.

My purple Petri.

And my rose colored Petri.

dotMod makes excellent quality mods and RBA's. I also own a couple of their mech squonkers.

 

[Daniel Forsyth]

Sorry for posting again guys..
I got my first mech in the mail today
So im about it set it up ...i
wanna use my dead rabbit v3 cause its same company and color as my trishul v2 so i think itll be sexy,
did some research all revieuwers say its hybrid safe but to me the pin doesnt protude that far????
they are all created equal right?
the reason i say doesnt protude far is because my tengu rda has way taller pin...
because i guess since its safe i should be ok still?
ill see if i can take a picture of it so ill edit my post if i do

just wanna be safe

Edit: i took pictures of it see the difference? They both say are hybrid safe are they really?
I hope the gold one dead rabbit v3 is because its not adjustable but hellvape and revieuwers do say its safe but its short so not a defect right?

The 510 needs to stick out about 2mm to be able to make contact with the mod. Measure the pin and if it doesn't stick out enough definitely don't use it.
And please do some more research on mech mods before you jump in! And make sure that you get advice from people very knowledgeable about them!

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Yeah i learned alot here about mechs already and ohms law and battery safety/hygene i will also always build on my regulated mods first and use it there for a bit to make sure of no shorts then use it on a mech,

That's excellent!!! Well done.

i got a build going in the rabbit its .22ohms its under your recommandation of .3 lol should i rebuild it or use it?

That's lower than what I would like to see a new mech user building. However, if you are confident in your build then it will work as expected on your mech. Give it a go!!!

I forgot to mention the hybrid im using is a 21700battery 35amps molicel p28a and samsung 40T the newer batch,mooch said the newer 40T is also 35amp CDR on this i should be ok with that build its not pulling near the amount of amps it can handle but do you still recommand to build higher?

Those are all good batteries. I have and use those as well as some others.

A fresh battery at 4.1V will draw 18.64A and deliver 76.41W. The battery will drop down to ~3.8V fairly quickly and draw 17.17A and deliver 65.64W.

As you get down to 3.6V you will be drawing 16.36A and be vaping at 58.91W. If you are very used to vaping 65W - 75W on a regulated mod you will (should) notice the difference when your battery starts getting around 3.6V (58W). When you begin to notice less than what you are used to is when you should swap batteries. For you, that might be when a battery reaches 3.7V (or ???).

 

[ShowMeTwice]

Anyway since i got 2 mechs now a third coming my way (my brother has an old vanilla mech for me) just needs cleaning its betined so now i need a kickass RDA haha any recommandations?

Very cool your brother is giving you a mech!!!

I prefer single coil RDA's. The single coil RDA's I mentioned earlier likely would not do well at 60-70 watts.

If you enjoy your Dead Rabbit then buy another one!!!

I only have 3 RDA and theyre not exactly top end its just Dead Rabbit V3, Geekvape Tengu,and Oumier Wasp VLS all 3 are hyrbid safe i checked but want another ofc cuz vape gear never ends lol
Was looking at armegeddon rda 25mm or recurve v2 or drop rda,maybe purge rda too not sure yet theirs a ton of options i was also mentioned a tauren rda which is in stock here too

I have an Armageddon 25mm RDA. It's excellent!!! Many folks love their Purge RDA's. I don't have any hands-on knowledge with the others you mentioned.

Edit: that vanilla mod my bro has for me apperently has noo vent holes lol and was a cheapy that even safe?
Appears to not be hyrbid but thats fine

If it makes you feel safer having vent holes then do some research, before drilling, then drill some vent holes.

I have a very old non-hybrid Surefire knurled brass King mech. It has one vent hole in the underside of the fire button (the battery contact side of the button). I would never drill any holes in it because then it's not 100% stock (resale value).

I don't polish the outside of my King as I prefer a more "used brass" look on it. However the inside of the tube, threads, button and contacts I keep very shiny and clean.

Also have an authentic SMPL hybrid, it has 6 vent holes in the fire button. I just cleaned and polished it with Brasso.

 

[Mordacai]

From what I've been able to trawl from the net is that if the 510 pin/screw sticks out it should be okay, as theoretically it shouldn't cause a dead short.

But hopefully more can add to this @The60WattGUY and either confirm or deny it, as the last thing I want to do is give you BS information.

 

[The60WattGUY]

@Mordacai yea but some are shorter then other but i guess if the all say supported then it must be safe?
I seen plenty of pictures online too with this combo trishul v2+dead rabbit v3
Anyway gonna set it up now i guess haha ill fire it away from my face lol test fire

 

[The60WattGUY]

@ShowMeTwice thank you now i feel safe heh i didnt kno there was such a difference in pin length thanks for letting me know

 

[The60WattGUY]

@ShowMeTwice Yeah i learned alot here about mechs already and ohms law and battery safety/hygene i will also always build on my regulated mods first and use it there for a bit to make sure of no shorts then use it on a mech, i got a build going in the rabbit its .22ohms its under your recommandation of .3 lol should i rebuild it or use it?
I forgot to mention the hybrid im using is a 21700battery 35amps molicel p28a and samsung 40T the newer batch,mooch said the newer 40T is also 35amp CDR on this i should be ok with that build its not pulling near the amount of amps it can handle but do you still recommand to build higher?

 

[The60WattGUY]

@ShowMeTwice Ya i usually vape between 60-100 on regulated most of time its 60-70w so that should be a good build for me to then,they are dual fused claptons tho hopefully they arnt to big of a mass but ill try them and see anyway,
My batteries are in perfect shape not even a scratch on it on the contacts and wrap the hybrid i use also has a plastic tube that helps for shorts too right?
Man im loving mechs to bad they arnt as popular hopefully theyll come back one day but as of now they my fav devices, lets say a part breaks of my mech or i need new magnets i can just go to metal shop and ask to make me new part? Its that simple with mechs?
They should last till i die then..
All tho my mod is brass and copper i need to find some kind of metal polish will any metal polish be fine to clean it?
Heard ketchup works too and vinegar but id rather use proper stuff
I can see you guys are mech lovers too?
We are a rare breed now haha

 

[The60WattGUY]

I got a ohm calculator i will always use for a new build i know you technically never get 4.2v out of a mech but ill calculate like that anyway for safety
And i will stay below max CDR that way it should never vent

 

[The60WattGUY]

@ShowMeTwice Anyway since i got 2 mechs now a third coming my way (my brother has an old vanilla mech for me) just needs cleaning its betined so now i need a kickass RDA haha any recommandations?
I only have 3 RDA and theyre not exactly top end its just Dead Rabbit V3, Geekvape Tengu,and Oumier Wasp VLS all 3 are hyrbid safe i checked but want another ofc cuz vape gear never ends lol
Was looking at armegeddon rda 25mm or recurve v2 or drop rda,maybe purge rda too not sure yet theirs a ton of options i was also mentioned a tauren rda which is in stock here too

Edit: that vanilla mod my bro has for me apperently has noo vent holes lol and was a cheapy that even safe?
Appears to not be hyrbid but thats fine

 

[Territoo]

Edit: that vanilla mod my bro has for me apperently has noo vent holes lol and was a cheapy that even safe?
Appears to not be hyrbid but thats fine

You can always take it to a mach8ne shop and have holes drilled in it, at both top and bottom of the battery case. I've heard of people adding holes at the top when the mod comes only with bottom vent holes. That way there is a vent close to either pole of your battery,

 

[The60WattGUY]

@Territoo good idea its an old cheapy so i dont feel bad drilling holes into it if it was brand new i wouldnt lol

 

[The60WattGUY]

Mech mods need to make a come back! Ive noticed with newer mech mods they usually come with plastic tubes and such to reduce risks thats great so they do care

 

[englishmick]

Couple of things to watch with 510's. Be sure the center pin sticks out, and it isn't spring loaded. A spring loaded pin could push in and give you a nice short. Also adjustable pins aren't a good idea on mechs IMO. When you screw the 510 into the mod the adjustable pin can catch on the contact and screw itself down into the neg ring if it's a little loose. That's happened to me with regulated mods.

I got some old mechs for the apocalypse. Never use them below 1.0 ohms though. I use them with KFL's where the pin is level with the neg ring. I stripped a couple of the tanks down and filed off 1/16" from the bottom of the neg ring so the pin sticks out.