DARWIN!! From EVOLVAPOR.COM – My Overview and First Impressions – Newest PRE-Production Prototype

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Katdarling

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I think it feels equal to, if not better than most tube mods in my opinion. And you can set it flat on a table and it won't roll off or scratch the side of the mod! It is beauty in the eye of the beholder I guess, but it has grown on me.

Personally, (duh, who else's opinion might this be) I would not care if it looked like a chicken's *)#$(%&. I am SO glad I made this decision (with the help of some wonderful people on here, and you know who you are).
 

Para

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For Darwinians who like a bottle tank mod and want to leave it attached AND turn off the Darwin, here's what works. Both the XL and regular allow the swing arm to move enough. I used a spray hand sanitizer bottle and a longer extension.

darwinbottle3.jpg



darwinbottle2.jpg


darwinbottle1.jpg
 
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Creniker

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So I am looking at getting a Darwin in a couple weeks and I have a couple questions.I only started vaping about 20 days ago, and I understand the difference between volts and watts, but what is ohms, and how does it affect my vape. Secondly I was wondering if I used a 501 to a 801 adapter with this still be worth the $230.00? I really do like it but is it going to change my whole vaping experience?
 

BigBopper

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So I am looking at getting a Darwin in a couple weeks and I have a couple questions.I only started vaping about 20 days ago, and I understand the difference between volts and watts, but what is ohms, and how does it affect my vape.
Ohms are how they measure resistance. The lower the ohms, the less resistance, and the warmer/hotter the vape. Low Resistant (LR) attys will simulate high voltage vaping on a standard voltage device. On the Darwin, I believe the consensus is to use standard resistant atties/cartos, which measure at 2.5-3.5 ohms.

Secondly I was wondering if I used a 501 to a 801 adapter with this still be worth the $230.00?
Definitely!

I really do like it but is it going to change my whole vaping experience?
Absolutely!

Al
 

NCVapingLady

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Ohms are how they measure resistance. The lower the ohms, the less resistance, and the warmer/hotter the vape. Low Resistant (LR) attys will simulate high voltage vaping on a standard voltage device. On the Darwin, I believe the consensus is to use standard resistant atties/cartos, which measure at 2.5-3.5 ohms.


Definitely!


Absolutely!

Al

+1
I use my 510-801 adapter and my 2.5ohm and 3.5ohm 801 atties and I'm in vaping heaven! I have tried my LR 801 atties on my Darwin, but find that even at the lowest wattage setting, it's not as satisfying (but not bad!).
 

cuseguy

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So I am looking at getting a Darwin in a couple weeks and I have a couple questions.I only started vaping about 20 days ago, and I understand the difference between volts and watts, but what is ohms, and how does it affect my vape. Secondly I was wondering if I used a 501 to a 801 adapter with this still be worth the $230.00? I really do like it but is it going to change my whole vaping experience?

Yes, no doubt it will change your vaping experience profoundly.I assume you mean 801 LR attys? I personally like 801's in all shapes and forms on the Darwin, so I would grab a 801 adapter no matter what, for the few bucks they cost.


Sent from my iPhone 4 using Tapatalk
 
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Creniker

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I use a Kr808-1 with cartamizers right now. So I want to get it to use with my cartamizers. I really like the idea of it keeping the watts stable, and the battery life is a huge plus. I just bought a Go-Go for $60.00 and that was an ok price, I just want to literally think to myself "this is the best vape in the world" every time I take a hit for $229.00 yah know?
 

Para

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I just want to literally think to myself "this is the best vape in the world" every time I take a hit for $229.00 yah know?

...which is exactly what I think every time I press the button. It *IS* the best vape in the world and whatever is in 2nd place is far behind. Nothing else does what a Darwin does.
 

Krisb

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Basically put, not having to constantly switch out and charge batteries and having a consistent vape from full to dead battery... makes this mid unique. No other mod offers both of these conveniences. Worth $230? Yes, considering most good mods are up there in price and no other mod offers this level of consistency.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 

HippyJeepChick

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Great review! Got my Darwin a few weeks ago and loving it! The two things I love about it are that I don't have to change out the batteries; I get about 20hours of vaping on it and charge the device overnight. Second thing is the easy variable voltage; no little screw driver to put in a tiny hole to change the voltage. I get the full flavors of every juice I have now and am loving it!
 

cuseguy

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You should come on over to the other Darwin thread... for, well, the Darwin addicts.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk

Oh no!, are we addicts?
Addict(a-dikt
prime.gif
): To occupy (oneself) with or involve (oneself) in something habitually or compulsively.
ibreve.gif


Yep...ok...uh...guess I can't argue with that.
 

Katdarling

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Cool. Sounds good. I was pretty sold on it in the first place, but I probably will get it :)

Do let us know. I'm sure you'll be MORE than happy you did. If you think about that "this is the best vape in the world every time I take a hit for $229.00" I would be surprised. I think you will think all of that, without the 229 at the end. JMO, unhumble as it may be.
 

NebulaBrot

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Well gang, I have had the Darwin in use for about 4 months now and decided it is time to update this thread. After trying everything in my collection on Darwin, I decided to play with some numbers just to see what might happen. The results are interesting.

All other devices that have “variable voltage” features seem to offer substantially fewer Heat Output levels (WATTS levels) when compared to Darwin. In actuality, I think the term “Variable Power” is a more accurate description for Darwin. Read on to see why this is true.

If we look over the evolution of ecig devices, device designs advance into the different voltage options (e.g. 3.7/6V, 5V regulated, unregulated and all the other Variable Volt devices), the goal of changing voltages has always been to change the intensity of the vapor. Using different atomizer ohms levels with different voltages results in different vapor intensities, heat, throat hit, and flavor production. However, these different combinations (and the vapor variations) result in (and from) various WATTS levels. Basically, as many vapors know, WATTS (heat output) is what changes the liquid/juices into vapor.

So, if the goal is to be able to control WATTS (which Darwin does), I decided to compare the various WATTS levels on Darwin to all other Variable Volt devices. As I see it, this comparison applies to ALL other variable volt devices and ALL other battery combinations: Infinity, Buzz, ProVari, VV Saber, VV Ali’i and every other variable volt device (including Eclipse – based on prototype details revealed at Philly vapefest – I guess those could be subject to change in final) and all other regulated and unregulated devices as well.

Having had, in my own collection (over time), many of these devices – I feel confident saying that incremental voltage settings are very difficult to refine to more than .1 volts increments. And, all of these devices require a variety of button presses or screw drivers and meters, etc to refine the settings. Granted, many say “just adjust volts to taste”, which is certainly a valid response. But even if they use a meter (built in or external) to get accurate settings, adjustments more refined than .1 volts changes are near impossible to accomplish. Darwin adjusts in .1 WATTS settings at just a turn of the wheel.

Lets look at some settings levels comparing Variable Voltage devices to “Variable Power” (Variable WATTS) in Darwin. Before we begin, it seems worthwhile to mention that these differences seem to increase as we climb the voltage scales. This means we see less difference in the low end (3.7 volts) and the differences get increasingly dramatic as we go up in volts.

So, lets see what the numbers tell us and for the sake of this comparison, I’ll leave out the Amps factor and assume that the batteries in any/all other devices will be capable of producing the amps necessary to drive all of these combinations. Not all batteries CAN do this but we will assume batts that can for the sake of this comparison. So, giving all other battery combinations the benefit of the doubt (because Darwin Batts certainly have the Amps) we can use the generic equation of Volts squared and then divide by ohms tells us the WATTS. Or: VxV/R=Watts (for those who may not know - “R” means ohms):

At 4.5 volts using a 2.5 ohms atty:
4.5V x 4.5V/2.5ohms = 8.1 WATTS
Now, lets “Variable Volt” change to 4.6 volts (a .1 volt increase)
4.6x4.6/2.5=8.46 WATTS

Because Darwin adjustment is in WATTS, Darwin offers several WATTS (heat output) settings in between the jump that all Variable Volt devices offer. In this case, changing the volts by only .1 volt (from 4.5 to 4.6) produces a jump in WATTS from 8.1 to 8.4 while Darwin offers 4 different settings (8.1, 8.2, 8.3 and 8.4) in that exact same range. This means with Darwin we can FINE TUNE the WATTS/Heat Output with more levels of adjustment.

Let’s look up the scale a bit:
5 volts using a 3 ohms atty or carto:
5V x 5V/3 ohms = 8.3 WATTS now up the volts by .1 volts
5.1x5.1/3=8.67 WATTS
5.2x5.2/3=9.01 WATTS

So, while all other Variable Voltage devices offer 3 settings: 5 volts, 5.1, 5.2 – using the same atty or carto Darwin offers 8 settings: 8.3 WATTS, 8.4, 8.5, 8.6, 8.7, 8.8, 8.9 and 9.0. Again, VV offers 3 settings in this range while Darwin offers 8 settings in the exact same range.

If we look at the same 5 Volts using a standard 2.5 ohms 510 atty:
5V x 5V/2.5 ohms = 10 WATTS
5.1x5.1/2.5=10.4 WATTS
5.2x5.2/2.5=10.8 WATTS
So, with this atty, once again, Varaible Voltage offers 3 settings and Darwin offers 9 different settings.

Lets do one more:

5.7 volts using 3.5 ohms:
5.7x5.7/3.5=9.2 WATTS
5.8x5.8/3.5=9.6 WATTS
5.9x5.9/3.5=9.9 WATTS
6.0x6.0/3.5=10.2 WATTS

So, as we climb the HV scale, we see the differences get even greater. In this range of .4 volts, Variable Volts devices offer 4 settings (5.7 volts, 5.8 volts, 5.9 volts and 6.0 volts ). Darwin offers 10 different settings levels compared to Variable voltage devices offering 4 settings levels.

To wrap this up, the intent of different volts options – whether that be in the form of battery options, regulators or any form of Variable Volt potentiometer (digital or otherwise) – has always been the goal to achieve more options in the vape experience. Ultimately, we are ALL vaping WATTS and so it seems reasonable that “Variable Power” (Variable WATTS settings) are really what all other devices are TRYING to accomplish by all the different “volts” options offered by different batteries and variable voltage devices. Clearly, Darwin offers way more WATTS settings because Darwin has "Variable Power". This means way more levels to experiment with and FINE TUNE our vaping experiences.

Some may say they cannot tell the differences in these ranges. But, simple facts are facts. Regardless of the atty, carto or tanks used, Darwin offers many more settings levels to refine and explore with different juices and produces more options. And, as many of us already know, Darwin does this all (regardless of whatever atty or carto we use) with a simply turn of the wheel. All of the information is clearly and plainly shown on the display at all times.

I found this interesting and thought some of you might as well. I have now had the Darwin in use for almost 4 months and I have to say it just performs/vapes better, more consistently and with more range than any other device I have ever vaped.

Happy :vapor:
 
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