My birthday is in August. If Evolv releases a juice feeder model by then, I know what to tell my wife to get me for a present. 
I really hate dripping and fooling with cartridges.
I really hate dripping and fooling with cartridges.
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Well, got up this morn and the LED was on again (arm down) which in itself, doesn't bother me so much as i have most of 2 years to go.
My birthday is in August. If Evolv releases a juice feeder model by then, I know what to tell my wife to get me for a present.
I really hate dripping and fooling with cartridges.
Someone dropped hints about a possible juice feeder in development in another thread. Been hearing some scuttlebutt about possible details, but I'll believe it when I see it. A good juicer is harder than it looks, and I've tried my share of them. I've seen so many near misses on feeder designs that I'm normally a little skeptical about them. We'll see if Evolv will hit two home runs in a row.
Quick note....the snow from the blizzard half melted, and another is on the way in a couple of days. Sorry for the paucity of comments on this thread, but I'm jumping through my 
trying to play two weeks worth of catch up within a couple of days.
I'm not wholly in love with the EM HV810 atty. Doesn't hold as much juice as I thought it would, and it's kind of hit or miss on feeding juice to the heating element. There's been a few times where there was juice in the atty, but I was getting a dry vape. Eh. May come back to it again, or try an Ikenvape UHV 801 I've got lying around. May have the opportunity to do so if I get snowed in the house for a couple of days this week.
In the meanwhile, I'm using an unaltered 2ohm Cisco 510 atty. Not bad at all, and the intact wick and bridge holds onto more juice better than the altered one.
I've also got some mid range 510 clearomizers in, but me, it looks like the biggest PITA out there. No instructions, not very intuitive, and I can't seem to fill mine up so far. It's a tiny little mod on top of that; definitely not for the bifocal wearing set.
Back to the grind, I'll try to keep checking in as time and energy allows. Thanks.
trying to play two weeks worth of catch up within a couple of days.I'm not wholly in love with the EM HV810 atty. Doesn't hold as much juice as I thought it would, and it's kind of hit or miss on feeding juice to the heating element. There's been a few times where there was juice in the atty, but I was getting a dry vape. Eh. May come back to it again, or try an Ikenvape UHV 801 I've got lying around. May have the opportunity to do so if I get snowed in the house for a couple of days this week.
In the meanwhile, I'm using an unaltered 2ohm Cisco 510 atty. Not bad at all, and the intact wick and bridge holds onto more juice better than the altered one.
I've also got some mid range 510 clearomizers in, but
me, it looks like the biggest PITA out there. No instructions, not very intuitive, and I can't seem to fill mine up so far. It's a tiny little mod on top of that; definitely not for the bifocal wearing set. Back to the grind, I'll try to keep checking in as time and energy allows. Thanks.
Reddirtland got it's second blizzard in a week. Roughly 8" of snow on the ground, so everything is almost shut down completely. Hunkered down inside of the house, adequately provisioned, for at least a day or two. The gals and the dogs are sleeping in, so I have that rarest of adult luxuries...time to myself.
While I was (quietly!) going through my box of vaping supplies, I came across a few sheets of blue foam from my cartridge modification phase. And it occurred to me that a strip of the blue foam properly cut would fit in the 801 atty reasonably well. An ECF search for 'blue foam on 801 atty' came up with an interesting thread from roughly a year ago. That thread gives pretty through details on how to cut and position the foam.
Bottom line is that when properly cut without bunching it up too tightly, the blue foam will hold and wick a fair amount of juice without flooding or cutting off airflow if the tip of the foam is nestled up just right against the wick. Started off with 15 drops of juice, and topping off with 5 drops when the vape starts tasting a little dry.
It's not exactly a perfect solution...my strip does cut down on the airflow just a bit, and it still needs to be topped off. Too much juice will cause seepage between the 801 and adapter. But it does seem to provide a nice balance for sustained vaping between straight dripping and using a juicing mod like the AFS or Map tank. May not be everyone's cup of tea, but worth trying up if you've got the time and supplies on hand. Especially if you're snowed in.
Think I'll try this out for the rest of the day, and report back later.
While I was (quietly!) going through my box of vaping supplies, I came across a few sheets of blue foam from my cartridge modification phase. And it occurred to me that a strip of the blue foam properly cut would fit in the 801 atty reasonably well. An ECF search for 'blue foam on 801 atty' came up with an interesting thread from roughly a year ago. That thread gives pretty through details on how to cut and position the foam.
Bottom line is that when properly cut without bunching it up too tightly, the blue foam will hold and wick a fair amount of juice without flooding or cutting off airflow if the tip of the foam is nestled up just right against the wick. Started off with 15 drops of juice, and topping off with 5 drops when the vape starts tasting a little dry.
It's not exactly a perfect solution...my strip does cut down on the airflow just a bit, and it still needs to be topped off. Too much juice will cause seepage between the 801 and adapter. But it does seem to provide a nice balance for sustained vaping between straight dripping and using a juicing mod like the AFS or Map tank. May not be everyone's cup of tea, but worth trying up if you've got the time and supplies on hand. Especially if you're snowed in.
Think I'll try this out for the rest of the day, and report back later.
Looking at purchase and have a few questions:
1. Does the Darwin come with a written warrantee?
2. Does the Darwin have a manual?
3. Does the Darwin maintain the "sweet spot" once you set it?
4. What is the actual battery life (between charges) that you are getting?
5. Does the documentation that comes with it address battery replacement cost?
6. Does the automatic cut-off function activate often?
7. How much does the unit weigh?
8. On a scale of 1 to 10, how would you rate this PV against all other PV's you have used?
9. Is there any negative comments you have about the Darwin?
Thanks to all who choose to reply....
Answers to your questions, Sir....
1. Does the Darwin come with a written warrantee?
A.: The maker Evolv LLC and distributor, Nhaler have both stated in writing on ECF and their respective websites that it has a two year warranty on the unit, and one year on the battery.
2. Does the Darwin have a manual?
A.: A manual on the Darwin is available, and I've seen it. IMHO, it's unnecessary. The Darwin is pretty simple to use.
3. Does the Darwin maintain the "sweet spot" once you set it?
A.: Yes, it sticks on the same wattage level until you move the thumbwheel.
4. What is the actual battery life (between charges) that you are getting?
A.: Truthfully, that's like asking how long a pack of cigarettes will last me; it depends on how much I smoke! With a full charge, it will easily last me for a full day of chain vaping. Though I think LR attys tend to drain it a bit faster. The mini USB port at the bottom also provides a way to use the Darwin as a passthrough when I'm using it for an extended period near a wall plug or computer. It's NOT a magical, wonderful, forever lasting power source which is invisibly replenished by pixies when you're not looking. But it has lasted longer between recharges than any other batty combination in any other mod that I've ever tried. And if you're doing HV vaping using stacked batteries, there is truly no comparison at all, period.
5. Does the documentation that comes with it address battery replacement cost?
A.: The maker and distributor have stated on ECF and their websites about battery replacement costs; I believe it is $25 if it happens outside of the one year warranty period. Keep in mind I got one of the first units, so my written documentation was pretty nil.
6. Does the automatic cut-off function activate often?
A.: I presume you mean when the battery is to be cut off. It has happened to me twice after long days of heavy vaping using LR attys. It shows the dead battery icon, which goes away back to the battery depletion icon once it starts charging.
7. How much does the unit weigh?
A.: Good question. I'll try to remember to weigh it when I get home tonight. It is no heaver than most mods I've tried, like the ggts or metal reos. The shape and size do make it very easy to hold and use. It's not nearly as big or heavy as it looks in its photos.
8. On a scale of 1 to 10, how would you rate this PV against all other PV's you have used?
A.: Conservatively, I'd say at least a 9. Outstanding design, features and construction. And if I were not a LV 3rd gen (self juicing mod) fanatic, I'd probably have to say a 10. If you are a dripper or diehard HV vaper, it is a must have mod.
9. Is there any negative comments you have about the Darwin?
A.: Other than the fact that it's NOT a juicer, not really. When using a 510 atty, the inlet holes sit exposed above the connection to the darwin. If you over juice, the excess will come out the inlet holes rather than clog the atty up. A drip cup could possibly be a nice add on to the darwin, provided it didn't interfere with using adapters or using the mod in general.
1. Does the Darwin come with a written warrantee?
A.: The maker Evolv LLC and distributor, Nhaler have both stated in writing on ECF and their respective websites that it has a two year warranty on the unit, and one year on the battery.
2. Does the Darwin have a manual?
A.: A manual on the Darwin is available, and I've seen it. IMHO, it's unnecessary. The Darwin is pretty simple to use.
3. Does the Darwin maintain the "sweet spot" once you set it?
A.: Yes, it sticks on the same wattage level until you move the thumbwheel.
4. What is the actual battery life (between charges) that you are getting?
A.: Truthfully, that's like asking how long a pack of cigarettes will last me; it depends on how much I smoke! With a full charge, it will easily last me for a full day of chain vaping. Though I think LR attys tend to drain it a bit faster. The mini USB port at the bottom also provides a way to use the Darwin as a passthrough when I'm using it for an extended period near a wall plug or computer. It's NOT a magical, wonderful, forever lasting power source which is invisibly replenished by pixies when you're not looking. But it has lasted longer between recharges than any other batty combination in any other mod that I've ever tried. And if you're doing HV vaping using stacked batteries, there is truly no comparison at all, period.
5. Does the documentation that comes with it address battery replacement cost?
A.: The maker and distributor have stated on ECF and their websites about battery replacement costs; I believe it is $25 if it happens outside of the one year warranty period. Keep in mind I got one of the first units, so my written documentation was pretty nil.
6. Does the automatic cut-off function activate often?
A.: I presume you mean when the battery is to be cut off. It has happened to me twice after long days of heavy vaping using LR attys. It shows the dead battery icon, which goes away back to the battery depletion icon once it starts charging.
7. How much does the unit weigh?
A.: Good question. I'll try to remember to weigh it when I get home tonight. It is no heaver than most mods I've tried, like the ggts or metal reos. The shape and size do make it very easy to hold and use. It's not nearly as big or heavy as it looks in its photos.
8. On a scale of 1 to 10, how would you rate this PV against all other PV's you have used?
A.: Conservatively, I'd say at least a 9. Outstanding design, features and construction. And if I were not a LV 3rd gen (self juicing mod) fanatic, I'd probably have to say a 10. If you are a dripper or diehard HV vaper, it is a must have mod.
9. Is there any negative comments you have about the Darwin?
A.: Other than the fact that it's NOT a juicer, not really. When using a 510 atty, the inlet holes sit exposed above the connection to the darwin. If you over juice, the excess will come out the inlet holes rather than clog the atty up. A drip cup could possibly be a nice add on to the darwin, provided it didn't interfere with using adapters or using the mod in general.
Thanks for your thoughts on the Darwin....it appears to be a quality, evolutionary, and well built device from all the forum discussions that I have seen. I guess the only thing that sticks in my mind is the lack of documentation and a detailed list of the features of the unit. To me, it is probably what I will choose (between the Provari and Darwin), but I like the way Provari provides detailed information about their product. Hopefully Darwin will update their Web site with more info..
Thanks again for your reply.....will monitor discussions on the Darwin for a little longer before jumping off and spending a few bucks on one...
Thanks again for your reply.....will monitor discussions on the Darwin for a little longer before jumping off and spending a few bucks on one...
Found the instructions pdf for the Darwin. PM me with your email address and I'll send it to you.
Come to think of it, I DO have a request for improvement for the Darwin. I think the charger for it should be a usb to mini usb cable that can plug into a wall outlet or car charger plug. This would greatly enhance the charging and passthrough possibilities of this mod. Or at least sell such a combo or provide a link for it.
And I'm still puffing away on by blue foamed EM HV 801 atty. Not a perfect setup, but it reduces the times I have to drip while diminishing any chances of a leak or flooding the atty. Decent taste and TH, I prefer to use analog flavors on the setup.
And I'll find some time this weekend to mess with the 510 clearomizers. I'm figuring the way to go would be to fill four or five at once in the morning and carry them around with me for the rest of the day.
Been reading on Drew's thread the good results experienced from BE112 attys. That's another setup to try sometime down the road. And possibly the MAP tank mod. The only thing that's kept me from draining the ol' bank account even further is my satisfaction with my current setup. But in a lot of ways, the Darwin is almost like a junior chemistry set for a nerdy fourth grader....I keep wanting to tinker and experiment with new setups.
One very notable thing to mention is that I have NOT killed a single atty yet with this mod. Impressive.
Time for me to go off and do the stuff that allows me to pay bills and buy toys. Good morning, y'all!
And I'm still puffing away on by blue foamed EM HV 801 atty. Not a perfect setup, but it reduces the times I have to drip while diminishing any chances of a leak or flooding the atty. Decent taste and TH, I prefer to use analog flavors on the setup.
And I'll find some time this weekend to mess with the 510 clearomizers. I'm figuring the way to go would be to fill four or five at once in the morning and carry them around with me for the rest of the day.
Been reading on Drew's thread the good results experienced from BE112 attys. That's another setup to try sometime down the road. And possibly the MAP tank mod. The only thing that's kept me from draining the ol' bank account even further is my satisfaction with my current setup. But in a lot of ways, the Darwin is almost like a junior chemistry set for a nerdy fourth grader....I keep wanting to tinker and experiment with new setups.
One very notable thing to mention is that I have NOT killed a single atty yet with this mod. Impressive.
Time for me to go off and do the stuff that allows me to pay bills and buy toys. Good morning, y'all!
Hi Clyde,
In my post, I wrote that you already CAN do this. The Darwin has the charger circuit built in to the device. The charge cable is just to bring the power to Darwin. You CAN use USB to mini USB and you can use a car cig-lighter adapter. However, I am not sure which cig-lighter adapter output level you will need. The one I already had just happens to be 5V 2A output so I know mine is strong enough. Some have 1A or 500 mAh outputs and I do not know if those have enough to charge Darwin. Perhaps Drew knows.
Also worth mentioning again (for anyone else), Darwin's charge circuit is "smart" charge in that it turns the charge off when the batt is fully charged. So you can plug it in and forget it. I use Darwin all day and plug it in when I go to bed. Haven't killed a batt yet.
obviously the Darwin has a usb port... the only way to charge it.
I don''t know if using my computer usb hub is better or worse than using the wall charge cable tht comes with it...?
I use the computer hub 9 out of 10 times as it is more convenient and it seems to charge it up fine... not sure if this is optimal or if it makes any difference.
I use the cable that came with my usb eGo batt....
I don''t know if using my computer usb hub is better or worse than using the wall charge cable tht comes with it...?
I use the computer hub 9 out of 10 times as it is more convenient and it seems to charge it up fine... not sure if this is optimal or if it makes any difference.
I use the cable that came with my usb eGo batt....
the AC adapter that comes with the Darwin has an 800mA or .8Amp output. A USB A male to USB mini B cable is going to power it to about 500mA from the USB port of a computer, or whatever the output is of the USB/AC adapter, USB hub, or other power source you've got it connected to. so the supplied AC adapter is slightly faster than just using a standard USB port, but a 1A or 1.5A wall USB/AC adapter would also be suitable and faster still. i don't know if it would be any better though, as a lot of lipo users on the RCR forums like to charge their batteries at under 1C, if not using a constant voltage/constant current (CCCV) charger, believing they'll get a more complete charge that way. generally you don't want to exceed a 1C charge rating (their capacity in mAh), or 1 X 1800mah, so 1800mA or 1.8A charging output in the case of the Darwin, unless specified differently by the manufacturer.
Seriously, I'm thinking the smart mod might be able to handle charging current from a variety of sources. If the included charger was a usb to mini usb cord and came with a wall socket to usb plug, and or a car cigarette adpater to usb plug, it would make a handy little add on to the Darwin and emphasize the usefulness of the pass-through element of the mod.
I'm just posing a question, (sometimes admittedly formed as a statement) and letting the truly talented take over from there.
I'm just posing a question, (sometimes admittedly formed as a statement) and letting the truly talented take over from there.
Had my first experience with clearomizers. How do I put this.....
Oh yeah, these stupid , and the sadistic who made them! I have never been so frustrated with a mod. Tiny litle mods with small, hard to see and handle pieces, complicated filling procedure and inadequate instructions. Printed on the back of a business card, in literally microfiche. I can think that they only function they serve is as a torture device for the middle aged. If you're over 40 and are thinking about trying these, my advice is to keep on walking.
I'm almost fantasizing about returning them to the manufacturer...after I fill them with anthrax.
My friend Sterno was able to fill a couple of XL's someone had given to him....using a Reo Grand, he slowly fed them from the bottom. Took about fifteen minutes per carto.
And the ones I had tried had a very muted taste. The best way I could describe the experience was buying your favorite soft drink at a restaurant, and taking a drink after you let the ice melt. As it stands now, I'm wondering why anyone goes through the trouble of filling them for such a small payoff.
The only reason why I don't outright chunk them in the trash is the possibility I can use them in the map tank mod...assuming I ever get the opportunity and desire to buy it to coincide.
Think I'll try a LR carto (old school) one again so I don't swear off carto forever.
Oh yeah,
these stupid , and the sadistic who made them! I have never been so frustrated with a mod. Tiny litle mods with small, hard to see and handle pieces, complicated filling procedure and inadequate instructions. Printed on the back of a business card, in literally microfiche. I can think that they only function they serve is as a torture device for the middle aged. If you're over 40 and are thinking about trying these, my advice is to keep on walking.I'm almost fantasizing about returning them to the manufacturer...after I fill them with anthrax.
My friend Sterno was able to fill a couple of XL's someone had given to him....using a Reo Grand, he slowly fed them from the bottom. Took about fifteen minutes per carto.
And the ones I had tried had a very muted taste. The best way I could describe the experience was buying your favorite soft drink at a restaurant, and taking a drink after you let the ice melt. As it stands now, I'm wondering why anyone goes through the trouble of filling them for such a small payoff.
The only reason why I don't outright chunk them in the trash is the possibility I can use them in the map tank mod...assuming I ever get the opportunity and desire to buy it to coincide.
Think I'll try a LR carto (old school) one again so I don't swear off carto forever.
Clyde,
I too recently tried the clearomizers (3.0-3.2 ohms). What I did was to remove the mouth piece (and threw it away), remove the next gasket and threw that away. Then, carefully (avoiding the coil) remove the piece with the needle holes (for filling) and SAVED that one. Now the top is open enough for easy filling from any dripper or needle bottle right down the sides. To prevent leakage, I replaced the last piece (with needle holes) being careful to fully seat it completely down over the ceramic coil holder. Next is a matter of preference. You can fit a 510 drip tip but I would not drip into these (not without the second piece I threw away - it has a sort of funneling indent to funnel the juice directly onto the coil). But a 510 drip-tip does fit as a nicer mouthpiece. I did something different. I found the coil so close to my mouth to make the vapor too warm for my liking. I am used to 801s which allow the vapor to expand more and cool just a bit. So, I tool the little rubbery mouthpiece and cut it at the narrow (closer to the base rather than mouth-tip). I inverted it into the top of the carto and shoved an 801 black plastic whistle-tip over the exposed end (that would otherwise be inside the top of the carto). while this is not "perfectly stable", it IS stable enough for use. This additional space provides enough room for the vapor to expand a little and makes the vapor more pleasant (again - to my personal liking).
While I am not a fan (overall - but I haven't yet given them enough of a chance as I have only filled one one time and they may get better with break-in) - many are. There are a bunch of youtube videos of various ways to slightly modify them. The ones I have are R2 so I have not yet tried the newer R4s and there is now an R5 (but that may or may not yet be avail in the clear version).
As long as you have them, might as well play. I did find that if it was not wicking well (perhaps midway thru juice fill), a quick tip over to let juice directly hit the coil...
I too recently tried the clearomizers (3.0-3.2 ohms). What I did was to remove the mouth piece (and threw it away), remove the next gasket and threw that away. Then, carefully (avoiding the coil) remove the piece with the needle holes (for filling) and SAVED that one. Now the top is open enough for easy filling from any dripper or needle bottle right down the sides. To prevent leakage, I replaced the last piece (with needle holes) being careful to fully seat it completely down over the ceramic coil holder. Next is a matter of preference. You can fit a 510 drip tip but I would not drip into these (not without the second piece I threw away - it has a sort of funneling indent to funnel the juice directly onto the coil). But a 510 drip-tip does fit as a nicer mouthpiece. I did something different. I found the coil so close to my mouth to make the vapor too warm for my liking. I am used to 801s which allow the vapor to expand more and cool just a bit. So, I tool the little rubbery mouthpiece and cut it at the narrow (closer to the base rather than mouth-tip). I inverted it into the top of the carto and shoved an 801 black plastic whistle-tip over the exposed end (that would otherwise be inside the top of the carto). while this is not "perfectly stable", it IS stable enough for use. This additional space provides enough room for the vapor to expand a little and makes the vapor more pleasant (again - to my personal liking).
While I am not a fan (overall - but I haven't yet given them enough of a chance as I have only filled one one time and they may get better with break-in) - many are. There are a bunch of youtube videos of various ways to slightly modify them. The ones I have are R2 so I have not yet tried the newer R4s and there is now an R5 (but that may or may not yet be avail in the clear version).
As long as you have them, might as well play. I did find that if it was not wicking well (perhaps midway thru juice fill), a quick tip over to let juice directly hit the coil...
Had my first experience with clearomizers. How do I put this.....
Oh yeah,
I've never bothered with clearomizers, thanks to the feedback offered here at ECF. Yes, it was all over the board from "Wondermous!" to [see above].
Inconsistent reviews are a good indicator of inconsistent quality.
Anyway, can I use the above quote as my forum signature?
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