I bought an l-rider corolla 2.0 and its highly frustrating that its producing absolutely no vapor or barley any on most of my tanks. I've used a kanger pro tank 1&2, 3 different vivi novas, 2 dct cartos, a agr carto, a agat2 and a phoenix dripping atty clone all range in resistance from 1.4-2.5. The batteries have been both protected and non freshly charged flat top and post top 18650's. All the batteries and tanks rip on my segelie zmax ran at 3.0-3.8 volts and 7.5-9.0 watts. The only one that kind of works is the aga t2 but still no justice on the mech compared to the zmax. There's not very much to this device, so what's the deal? Any of you vets got an idea. T.I.A.
brand new mech giving off little to no vapor. what is going on? helpppppp!!!!!
- Thread starter rubblebucket
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Not a vet but I think you need to lower your resistance to produce more vapor.
I keep mine at 0.5-0.7. But I'll let a vet clarify this for you!
I keep mine at 0.5-0.7. But I'll let a vet clarify this for you!
Mechanical mods, since they run off whatever voltage the battery is putting out, doesn't produce a lot of vapor on standard+ resistance stuff. I pretty much only use my mech for low res/ sub ohms. Hope this helped.
Cheers!
Cheers!
I'm having a similar problem with my Nimbus RDA on my Electric Angel mod. I'm running a dual coil, 30g kanthal, 3/4 wrap on an 18650 battery both with and without a Kick. Vapor production is lackluster. Not sure if I need to bore out the air holes or not. Help us rebuildable gurus.
Edit: The Nimbus is at around 1.2 ohms if I'm using my multimeter right.
Edit: The Nimbus is at around 1.2 ohms if I'm using my multimeter right.
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With a mechanical mod you get the watts the resistance of your coil draws combined with the voltage of the battery. So, with a fairly fresh charge the battery puts out say 4 volts and a 1.5 ohm coil will draw 2.67 amps which equals 10.67 watts. Reduce the voltage and that goes down. Increase the ohms and that goes down.
The L-Rider Corolla also has a airflow adjustment at the top. I don't have one, so I have no experience with this, but I would imagine this can mess up the vape if it's not adjusted right. Best of luck with it!
I watched a review on the one I bought and the two British dudes were using clearos on the one in the review. Im 99.9% sure they weren't at sub ohms. So im baffled. I've field stripped this thing almost down to nothing. Rhe only place I haven't gone was the spring/botton mechanism. Someone suggested the problem may be in there. But im hoping its something simple I'm over looking.
With my mech mod if I don't use the kick it vapes like anyother non-variable voltage device. With the kick it works like a VW device. I got mine as a backup unit. If all else failed, including my kick, it should keep working (no electronics), as long as I have a good fully charged battery. Good luck
Using a mech with cartos is like using an ego. For clouds with a rebuildable dripper...use 28 g wire with 3mm silica folded twice (3 strands). You will need to bore out your holes to achieve what you imagined you would.
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Btw im wrapping my coils to .08ohms with panasonic cgr18650ch. Goodluck n hope this helps
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Sounds like you're having a voltage drop somewhere in the mech. Can you test your voltage coming out of the mech? A fully charged battery at about 3.7 volts should work great for ohms in the 1.8 to 2.0 range, giving you 6.8 to 7.6 watts, which is the sweet spot for many juices. A Digital multimeter will help you determine how much voltage is coming off your mech, because something is not right on the mech from what you describe, particularly if those same toppers work ok on your other batteries. I guess either a voltage drop or an air flow issue. Good luck.
Watch the review - looks like it should work okay with basic lr setups.
Check your air flow setting and clean ALL contact points.
Check your air flow setting and clean ALL contact points.
Thanks for all the replies. So a carto and a mech arent really compatible? I should be able to figure this out soon. My buddy is bringing a multi meter from a buffalo b&m and I have a rebuildable dripping atty and a few other toys coming from fast tech soon. I'll test the mod on the multi meter and the rda also with the Panasonic 3400mah batteries. If I still have trouble I'll be reposting on here. I guess its back to my faithful zmax for now.
gadiwhat said:
Rubbish. There's plenty of people using cartomizers and cartotanks with mechanical mods.
For a mech I use RDA's or rebuildable dripper's or a RBA/genesis style at home sometimes.
Get some 28 gauge Kanthal (100' on ebay for 5 bucks), a IGO-L (10-15bucks), some silica wick (1 dollar/foot or less), and a cheap butane lighter torch.
Doing a single coil 3/4 wrap will get you between .9-1.1 ohms and doing a dual coil wrap will get you in the .5 ohm range.
Once you get in that range vapor production so long as you dont flood your dripper will never be an issue unless you get a dead battery, short in the coil, or bad coil.
Some people use kangers with mechs but only after they have rebuilt the wick themselves with heavier gauge kanthal to lower the ohm's.
So yes you can use Carto's with mechs but the get optimal performance most are rebuilding them or getting a rebuildable one which they can use lower resistance Kanthal in.
Get some 28 gauge Kanthal (100' on ebay for 5 bucks), a IGO-L (10-15bucks), some silica wick (1 dollar/foot or less), and a cheap butane lighter torch.
Doing a single coil 3/4 wrap will get you between .9-1.1 ohms and doing a dual coil wrap will get you in the .5 ohm range.
Once you get in that range vapor production so long as you dont flood your dripper will never be an issue unless you get a dead battery, short in the coil, or bad coil.
Some people use kangers with mechs but only after they have rebuilt the wick themselves with heavier gauge kanthal to lower the ohm's.
So yes you can use Carto's with mechs but the get optimal performance most are rebuilding them or getting a rebuildable one which they can use lower resistance Kanthal in.
I think you meant 0.8 ohms
Yeah .8 ohms. Sorry haha
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