Best Budget RDA & Mech Mod?

[Aidan Vapes]

Im looking at buying my first ever mech mod and im just wondering what will be the best mech mod and RDA on a budget?

Im going to be buying a CLONE mech mod as I cant justify spending £100-200 on a tube.. but ive watched reviews and such and the clones seem just as good?

As for RDA's i have two at the minute but ive heared for a mech mod your RDA needs a big protruding 510? I've currently got a Twisted Messes Clone and an authentic mad hatter, are these okay for use on a mech mod?

I also know about the required battery safety and such when using a mech mod.

I have been looking on fast tech and they have loads of mech mod clones for around £20 but im not sure if thees are any good although most of then have 5* reviews?

Thanks

 

[aceman3330]

I just bought an authentic Wismec Skyladon. Haven't got time for it yet. But my friend who went with me and also bought one said he loves it. It's got magnetic firing switch at the bottom, that's a plus. And you can transform it into a hybrid mod with the included adapter top. How cool is that.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Chips177]

The protruding 510 pin is primarily for hybrid tops. I would personally stick to single coil to keep the amps down until you get the hang of it.

My favorite setup to this day is still a brass knurled King V2 clone with a Stumpy RDA clone running a single coil.

Best $25 I've ever spent.

 

[Bad Ninja]

Im looking at buying my first ever mech mod and im just wondering what will be the best mech mod and RDA on a budget?

Im going to be buying a CLONE mech mod as I cant justify spending £100-200 on a tube.. but ive watched reviews and such and the clones seem just as good?

As for RDA's i have two at the minute but ive heared for a mech mod your RDA needs a big protruding 510? I've currently got a Twisted Messes Clone and an authentic mad hatter, are these okay for use on a mech mod?

I also know about the required battery safety and such when using a mech mod.

I have been looking on fast tech and they have loads of mech mod clones for around £20 but im not sure if thees are any good although most of then have 5* Reviews?

Thanks

Please don't take this the wrong way.

Stop what you are doing and do more research before buying a mechanical.

You said you understand battery safety but you aren't sure why some mods need a protruding positive pin.

With most mods this isn't an issue, but with some, it's a requirement or you will have a bad day.

You need to understand why this is an issue to vape safely.

Stop getting your information from YouTube.
Ask here and we can help you vape safely.

 

[Aidan Vapes]

Please don't take this the wrong way.

Stop what you are doing and do more research before buying a mechanical.

You said you understand battery safety but you aren't sure why some mods need a protruding positive pin.

With most mods this isn't an issue, but with some, it's a requirement or you will have a bad day.

You need to understand why this is an issue to vape safely.

Stop getting your information from YouTube.
Ask here and we can help you vape safely.

I meant I have the two RDA's mentioned above which DO have a protruding 510 but I was just asking by how much they actually need to be sticking out both my twisted messes and mad hatter have a protruding 510.

As for "getting my information from youtube" I feel youtube is the best place to watch a product review from various companies/people.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I meant I have the two RDA's mentioned above which DO have a protruding 510 but I was just asking by how much they actually need to be sticking out both my twisted messes and mad hatter have a protruding 510.

As for "getting my information from youtube" I feel youtube is the best place to watch a product review from various companies/people.

The problem with that is you have no clue as to whether or not the information is correct.
There are no standards on YouTube.
Anyone can post an incorrect video.

You are in the right place now, so ask any questions you like and we will try to answer as honestly and correctly as possible.
We are here to help.
YouTube videos are there to get clicks.

 

[suprtrkr]

It's hard to beat a Nemesis clone. And a Neme has a 510 center pin, so picking a topper is not all that important regarding the pin. You only have to worry about that with a "faux hybrid" tip, one with no center pin. Here's some photos of the difference. Center pin cap on the left, "faux hybrid" on the right.

 

[Baditude]

The protruding 510 pin is primarily for hybrid tops. I would personally stick to single coil to keep the amps down until you get the hang of it.

Lets get the terminology correct here:

Hybrid mods have the atomizer built into the mod; there is no 510 pin. You can't fit a commercial juice attachment onto this mod, it comes with its own custom atomizer built into the mod.

"Hybrid-look", "faux hybrid", or "direct battery" mods have no 510 center pin, like the above SMPL mech. They require a juice attachment whose 510 connector has an extended center pin (see pic below) to make contact with the battery. Attempting to put an ordinary juice attachment with a regular 510 connector can cause a hard short resulting in a venting battery. For advanced mech users.

Extended center pin in the 510 connector.

Some mechs allow you to choose between two tops: a normal 510 connector top or a faux hybrid top, like suprtrkr showed above.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup

Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod

I personally recommend a Silver Bullet mechanical. Made in Ohio. Aircraft aluminum grade metal. Durable yet lightweight. Smooth threading. Recessed side fire button prevents accidental firing in a pocket or purse. Battery venting via the fire button. Hot spring. Kick extension tube available to use a Kick and 18650 battery. One of the safest mech mods on the market. $85.

AltSmoke Silver Bullet

 

[Hans Wermhat]

The 2 best RDA's I own are the Tobeco Velocity clone (about $12 - $15) and the Infinite CLT2+ (authentic is about $20 - $25). Both have a deep juice well and tons of airflow. The Velocity has the "unique" build deck that everyone and their mother is copying these days. It's definitely easier to build on.
As for a mech, you really have to be careful with them. You MUST have good batteries (Sony VTC4's are all I use in a mech). You really should avoid the faux hybrid style (this is when the protruding + pin becomes an issue). Other than that, mechs are about style and looks. Magnetic switches are a plus, and a good manufacturer is a must. Don't buy a cheapo off ebay. Tobeco, Infinite, and HCigar all make some good clone mechs. Pick the one that looks good to you and do some research on it and read the reviews for the specific mod you want to buy. I'd suggest looking at the Nemesis, Stingray, and Origen.

 

[Bad Ninja]

The 2 best RDA's I own are the Tobeco Velocity clone (about $12 - $15) and the Infinite CLT2+ (authentic is about $20 - $25). Both have a deep juice well and tons of airflow. The Velocity has the "unique" build deck that everyone and their mother is copying these days. It's definitely easier to build on.
As for a mech, you really have to be careful with them. You MUST have good batteries (Sony VTC4's are all I use in a mech). You really should avoid the faux hybrid style (this is when the protruding + pin becomes an issue). Other than that, mechs are about style and looks. Magnetic switches are a plus, and a good manufacturer is a must. Don't buy a cheapo off ebay. Tobeco, Infinite, and HCigar all make some good clone mechs. Pick the one that looks good to you and do some research on it and read the reviews for the specific mod you want to buy. I'd suggest looking at the Nemesis, Stingray, and Origen.

Do not buy the Origen mod.

That's the worst switch I've ever used.
It's a nightmare and never stays set.
I wouldn't wish that mod on my worst enemy.
Nemesis is a good mod to start out with.

 

[HighPlainsPuffer]

On mechanicals too, there are a host of options that you can get depending on the model. For instance, a locking bottom ring is really nice to allow you to set your mod down. I love the stingray x mechanical, but there is no locking ring so I'm real careful about setting it down. The nemesis is a great mod, and has a locking ring. I also like the King mod, it's very solid and also has a locking ring. I also like my heimdall and emma mods too, those are my two favorites at the moment. Something like a fuhattan is great too, but no locking ring and the floating 510 pin that likes to fall out can be a drag.

When building rda's for tubes, you're going to need to be cognizant of your batteries' limitations. You could get a dual battery mod (parallel) for greater safety.

As to the rda's themselves, I really like my velocity clone.

 

[Aidan Vapes]

Okay so after reading all of this there is alot of information to take in and such like and im not going to sit here and pretend I know everything about mech mods.

So ill ask simply

a) Can I get a Good Reliable ( Clone or Authentic) Mech mod for £30-50? If so which ones would you recommend?

b) Best battery for a mech mod? I currently use Sony VTC 4's in my VV/VW devices

Thanks all for the help!

Kinda feel like I should just stick to VV/VW but really want to give mech mods a try but all this info is making me nervous

 

[Baditude]

b) Best battery for a mech mod? I currently use Sony VTC 4's in my VV/VW devices

The answer depends upon how low in resistance (ohm) your coils will be. The lower the ohm, the more amps (CDR or continuous discharge rate) you need. Most all IMR or INR batteries on the market today will put out 20 amps CDR, which is good for builds down to 0.3 ohm. If you think you'll build lower than 0.3 ohm, you'll want a 30 amp battery. (These recommendations do not figure in for a wide margin of safety.)

* Coil amp draw from Ohm's Law calculations for Mechanical Mods:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Sony VTC4 2100 mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30A CDR.

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR (green wrap if you can, blue wrap is just fine)
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 Amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5 2600mAh 30Amp CDR (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR

Battery Basics for Mods
18650 Battery Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Cell to Vape With

 

[Aidan Vapes]

The answer depends upon how low in resistance (ohm) your coils will be. The lower the ohm, the more amps (CDR or continuous discharge rate) you need. Most all IMR or INR batteries on the market today will put out 20 amps CDR, which is good for builds down to 0.3 ohm. If you think you'll build lower than 0.3 ohm, you'll want a 30 amp battery. (These recommendations do not figure in a margin of safety.)

* Coil amp draw from Ohm's Law calculations for Mechanical Mods:
1.0 ohm = 4.2 amp draw
0.9 ohm = 4.6 amp draw
0.8 ohm = 5.2 amp draw
0.7 ohms = 6 amp draw
0.6 ohms = 7 amp draw
0.5 ohms = 8.4 amp draw
0.4 ohms = 10.5 amp draw
0.3 ohms = 14.0 amp draw
0.2 ohms = 21.0 amp draw
0.1 ohms = 42.0 amp draw
0.0 ohms = dead short = battery goes into thermal runaway

Sony VTC4 2100 mah 30 amp CDR
LG18650HB6 1500mah 30A CDR.

LG 18650HG2 3000mah 20Amp CDR
Samsung 18650-25R, 2500 mah 20 amp CDR (green wrap if you can, blue wrap is just fine)
LG 18650HE2 2500 mah 20 Amp CDR
Sony 18650VTC5 2600mAh 30Amp CDR (* tested as only a 20 amp CDR)
AW 18650 3000 mah 20 amp CDR

Battery Basics for Mods
18650 Battery Safety Grades -- Picking a Safe Cell to Vape With

Sorry probably should of mentioned the ohms i vape at, I never go lower than 0.30 ohms on an RDA and no higher than 0.70 Ohms

 

[Hans Wermhat]

The VTC4's you have will work great. If they are old (like more than 6 months old) I would get new ones. If they are part of a married pair in a 2 battery mod, once you pull one out and use it in a mech, the pair is no longer married, so don't put them back in a 2 battery mod.

Copper Nemesis Mod (Logo-Free)
Here's a link to a inexpensive Nemesis. I suggest adding the magnets for the switch. Makes the whole package around $18.00 US.

Vapecrawler
Here's a link to other Nemesis mods and more parts upgrades.