Battery question on a Chuck with a 510 connector
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Alright, here it goes. I'm not sure if I am doing it right or not, but the pics really helped Houdini. My meter is slightly different, but I think I had it set right to test the Ohms. Except I think mine was testing milli-Ohms. If I set the range to Ohms is just said O.F, which according to the instructions, means infinite resistance. But if I set the range to milli-Ohms, the display doesn't ever become stable. The figures come up anywhere from the O.F, infinite rating or 10.000 milli-Ohms or 05.000 Ohms. I'm not sure what any of that means though. As I read through the instructions it said the milli-Ohms range may take a few seconds to read a stable rating, but I left the leads on for a few minutes and it was still jumping around.
I really appreciate you guys, especially Quick1, putting in so much time and patience with me on this issue. I realize I am probably not the easiest person to help, so thanks!!!
I really appreciate you guys, especially Quick1, putting in so much time and patience with me on this issue. I realize I am probably not the easiest person to help, so thanks!!!
Hmmm, we're looking for Ohms. milli-ohms would work but it would be a huge number and maybe the meter just shows it as infinite if it's off the scale you have it set to. "takes a while to stablilze" --> couple/few seconds.
Stick the atomizer on your little chuck and see if it works at all. If it does then let's try to get an ohm measurement again. If the atomizer is working on your little chuck then it's not burnt out and the resistance should be in the ball park for that atomizer. The reason to check it with the meter is that there is some slim possibility that it has a very low resistance. Like the 1.5 ohm LR 510 atomizers you can buy from Nhaler. If it has a very low resistance then the current draw would be huge at 6v and extremely likely to be tripping the battery protection circuit.
Stick the atomizer on your little chuck and see if it works at all. If it does then let's try to get an ohm measurement again. If the atomizer is working on your little chuck then it's not burnt out and the resistance should be in the ball park for that atomizer. The reason to check it with the meter is that there is some slim possibility that it has a very low resistance. Like the 1.5 ohm LR 510 atomizers you can buy from Nhaler. If it has a very low resistance then the current draw would be huge at 6v and extremely likely to be tripping the battery protection circuit.
I have 6 different attys I have tried in my Lil Chuck. Each one vapes as normal, but none of them read anything other than OF on the meter when the meter is set to Ohms. I'm starting to think I'm doing something wrong with the meter, but I am following Houdini's pics and it doesn't seem like it can be that hard.
1) when you make contact with the probes the display should change -- to whatever but it should all of a sudden make some sort of change.
2) set the selector for something larger than milli-ohms (if it has choices like houdini's). Anything that would show 1 ohm as "1" or some fraction like "0.001". My meter doesn't have ranges. You just set it to Ohms and it auto adjusts the display according to the size of the measurement
3) the meter should have a setting for "continuity" or "cont" or maybe just a speaker symbol. That's to see if one end is connected to the other. If you touch the probes together it should beep or something. Try the atomizer again and see if it beeps. That would mean that the center (+) is electrically connected (though the atomizer bridge) to the threads (-). If it is then you *should* be able to measure a non-zero (or non-infinite) resistance.
There's even a chance that the display will show the resistance in the "continuity check" mode.
2) set the selector for something larger than milli-ohms (if it has choices like houdini's). Anything that would show 1 ohm as "1" or some fraction like "0.001". My meter doesn't have ranges. You just set it to Ohms and it auto adjusts the display according to the size of the measurement
3) the meter should have a setting for "continuity" or "cont" or maybe just a speaker symbol. That's to see if one end is connected to the other. If you touch the probes together it should beep or something. Try the atomizer again and see if it beeps. That would mean that the center (+) is electrically connected (though the atomizer bridge) to the threads (-). If it is then you *should* be able to measure a non-zero (or non-infinite) resistance.
There's even a chance that the display will show the resistance in the "continuity check" mode.
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Quick1 you are going to be shaking your head at me by the time this is all over.....I can see it now.
I have been trying to drain the 3.0V batts for a couple hours now, so I figured it was time to check the voltage. In doing so, I discovered why I wasn't getting the Ohm reading earlier. Somewhere along the lines I messed up my meter. I'm not sure what I have done to mess it up, but now it won't read the volts either. I guess I can't win for losing today!
I have been trying to drain the 3.0V batts for a couple hours now, so I figured it was time to check the voltage. In doing so, I discovered why I wasn't getting the Ohm reading earlier. Somewhere along the lines I messed up my meter. I'm not sure what I have done to mess it up, but now it won't read the volts either. I guess I can't win for losing today!
Ok, hopefully this does the trick...With all the tests you've done, it looks like the center post of the atty is not making contact...I'll be waiting with baited breath.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...have-atty-works-1-device-but-not-another.html
Have a great day!
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...have-atty-works-1-device-but-not-another.html
Have a great day!
It's really hard to mess up a multimeter
. Right there next to messing up a hammer. Should be bullet proof unless you plug a really cheap one into some really high voltage. Check for a battery. There will be one in there somewhere. *That* battery might be worn out I might be hard to mess up a multimeter, but I figured it out the first time I used one. And it was brand new when I started. Somehow I managed to blow the fuse in it. Even more amazing, I managed to figure out how to fix it on my own.
Now that the multimeter trouble is past, back to the original problem. I tested my attys, between the six of them, they average between 3.2 Ohms and 2.8 Ohms.
Now that the multimeter trouble is past, back to the original problem. I tested my attys, between the six of them, they average between 3.2 Ohms and 2.8 Ohms.
Yes, attys are ok. I would have expected them to be a bit more consistent but... oh well. Like from 2.2 - 2.4 if they're Joye 510s. If they're SBE? ones then 2.5 - somethingorother... If the one that measured 3.4 is a regular 510 then it's probably on the verge of kicking the bucket. The disposable 510s are supposed to measure around 2.8.
Give that 3.4 ohm one a really short try on the little chuck to see if it actually works (I'd expect it to be weak) and then try that one on the big chuck. 3.4 ohms would cut down the current draw significantly. I would expect that one to work... unless it's about to die and then it might only work momentarily or it will just burn out instantly with the higher current.
You should have those batteries drawn down a ways by now right? Try that 3.4 ohm atty first. Just verify it works at all on the little chuck, then throw it on the big chuck. If you get nothing then put it back on the little chuck and see if it killed it. If it didn't kill it then ... I don't know, we'll go from there.
If it instantly just kills the 3.4 ohm then go to the 2.8 ohm. That one is probably in fine shape and just a little higher resistance due to loose manufacturing tolerance or quality.
by the way (just in case) you don't need to actually vape anything to try these. Take the cartridge off, drop a drop of juice directly on the atomizer bridge, and then when you press the button you should hear it sizzle immediately. That's all you need to see if it's working. DON'T get your eye close to it to see it... in case it spits. I have no idea what hot juice in the eye does but it can't be good.
Give that 3.4 ohm one a really short try on the little chuck to see if it actually works (I'd expect it to be weak) and then try that one on the big chuck. 3.4 ohms would cut down the current draw significantly. I would expect that one to work... unless it's about to die and then it might only work momentarily or it will just burn out instantly with the higher current.
You should have those batteries drawn down a ways by now right? Try that 3.4 ohm atty first. Just verify it works at all on the little chuck, then throw it on the big chuck. If you get nothing then put it back on the little chuck and see if it killed it. If it didn't kill it then ... I don't know, we'll go from there.
If it instantly just kills the 3.4 ohm then go to the 2.8 ohm. That one is probably in fine shape and just a little higher resistance due to loose manufacturing tolerance or quality.
by the way (just in case) you don't need to actually vape anything to try these. Take the cartridge off, drop a drop of juice directly on the atomizer bridge, and then when you press the button you should hear it sizzle immediately. That's all you need to see if it's working. DON'T get your eye close to it to see it... in case it spits. I have no idea what hot juice in the eye does but it can't be good.
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Well, since the attys are confirmed not blown the next thing I would do is go to Walmart and pick up a pack of these batteries. They are not rechargeable and not protected but they won't blow up and they don't have a protection circuit that can trip. If everything works then that proves the rechargeable batteries are the problem. If they don't work then it's a problem with the switch in the Chuck (which is not likely).
Unfort, I bought an assortment of batts while waiting for my Chuck...the only ones that work consistantly are the tenergy 750 mah lifepo4s....I hope you get it working soon, if you want a cheaper "test" home depot has a 2 pack of nonrechares for $10 in some areas, may check that and if they work go ahead and get the lifepos? Or just go for the Lifepos...
THEN, put the ones that trip circuit on the classifieds section and get ur money back...those batts work great on other attys, its mostly the 510 that trips them so you wont be selling "bad batts", just ones that trip on the 510s...
If you have adapters and other atty types, assemble another combo and those batts should work, ull prob find out what most do...they just dont like 510 attys
THEN, put the ones that trip circuit on the classifieds section and get ur money back...those batts work great on other attys, its mostly the 510 that trips them so you wont be selling "bad batts", just ones that trip on the 510s...
If you have adapters and other atty types, assemble another combo and those batts should work, ull prob find out what most do...they just dont like 510 attys
Well, since the attys are confirmed not blown the next thing I would do is go to Walmart and pick up a pack of these batteries. They are not rechargeable and not protected but they won't blow up and they don't have a protection circuit that can trip. If everything works then that proves the rechargeable batteries are the problem. If they don't work then it's a problem with the switch in the Chuck (which is not likely).
Sorry, I'm trying to learn all I can about batteries because I am CLUELESS (CTJ can attest to that).
If the photo batteries are not protected, why won't they blow up? Safe chemistry or something??
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