I have built a couple of simple tools to test eGo batteries and Attys, both with 510 type threading.
My very first "Starter" kit came with a Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer and would keep burning the
wicks so I got Vision 2.0 Clearo's, which work much better. The kit also came with an 1100mah
eGo "Knock-off" batteries (the one with the Etched Dragon) and it quit working properly after only
a month, so I got joyetech eGo-C's and retired the "kit".
So, with parts laying around I really couldn't use, I decided today to build testing equipment.
By taking the center post out of the Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer and modifying it to connect
Multimeter Probes, I now have a decent Battery "Actual Voltage" tester and by using the head
from the "Dragon" battery, I have a way to test Atomizer and Clearomizer ohms.
Battery Tester
* 1 Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer (non-replaceable head type)
* 2 x 4pin Molex Connector Wires (1 red, 1 black) with Pin Connector
NOTE: 4pin Molex Connector Wires are for Computer PSU Connections. Aligator clips can be
used in place of these connectors.
* Solder and Soldering iron
* Tubing Cutter or Metal saw blade (to cut tubing)
* Emory board and fine "Metal" sand paper.
* Wire Shrink Tubing
1) Remove the center post from Vision "Stardust".
2) Remove the rubber head and wick and discard.
3) Remove the center pin, and gasket from post.
4) Cut the post-top (wick flanges) off, just below the wick gap and sand the top opening smooth.
5) Using the black wire, strip about 1 inch and wrap around the outside of the post near the bottom.
6) Sand the post area near the bottom so solder will stick.
7) Solder the black wire in place around the post bottom.
8) Using the red wire, strip about 1/8 inch, flux the wire for soldering, and push it into the center
pin from the top, about 1/2 inch.
9) Cut a 1/8 inch piece of solder and drop into the bottom hole pf the center pin.
10) Heat the center pin (I had to use a small "Pen Torch" for this because a light solder iron does not
heat the pin enough). This will melt the solder onto the inserted wire.
11) Put the red wire up through the post bottom and reseat the pin in place.
12) Replacce the pin gasket and cover the post with shrink tubing.
13) Cut about 1 1/4 inch Shrink Tubing and cover the connector ends (do not close the end holes).
Battery Tester in use:
DISCLAIMER:
If you are not familiar with electrical components and/or working with electronic devices or are not comfortable with soldering,
Do Not attempt anything in this tutorial!
The information contained in this tutorial is for educational purposes only and if acted on, it is done so at the user's own risk.
I cannot and will not be held liable for damages, injury, or even death that may arise by following information herein.
My very first "Starter" kit came with a Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer and would keep burning the
wicks so I got Vision 2.0 Clearo's, which work much better. The kit also came with an 1100mah
eGo "Knock-off" batteries (the one with the Etched Dragon) and it quit working properly after only
a month, so I got joyetech eGo-C's and retired the "kit".
So, with parts laying around I really couldn't use, I decided today to build testing equipment.
By taking the center post out of the Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer and modifying it to connect
Multimeter Probes, I now have a decent Battery "Actual Voltage" tester and by using the head
from the "Dragon" battery, I have a way to test Atomizer and Clearomizer ohms.
Battery Tester
* 1 Vision "Stardust" Clearomizer (non-replaceable head type)
* 2 x 4pin Molex Connector Wires (1 red, 1 black) with Pin Connector
NOTE: 4pin Molex Connector Wires are for Computer PSU Connections. Aligator clips can be
used in place of these connectors.
* Solder and Soldering iron
* Tubing Cutter or Metal saw blade (to cut tubing)
* Emory board and fine "Metal" sand paper.
* Wire Shrink Tubing
1) Remove the center post from Vision "Stardust".
2) Remove the rubber head and wick and discard.
3) Remove the center pin, and gasket from post.
4) Cut the post-top (wick flanges) off, just below the wick gap and sand the top opening smooth.
5) Using the black wire, strip about 1 inch and wrap around the outside of the post near the bottom.
6) Sand the post area near the bottom so solder will stick.
7) Solder the black wire in place around the post bottom.
8) Using the red wire, strip about 1/8 inch, flux the wire for soldering, and push it into the center
pin from the top, about 1/2 inch.
9) Cut a 1/8 inch piece of solder and drop into the bottom hole pf the center pin.
10) Heat the center pin (I had to use a small "Pen Torch" for this because a light solder iron does not
heat the pin enough). This will melt the solder onto the inserted wire.
11) Put the red wire up through the post bottom and reseat the pin in place.
12) Replacce the pin gasket and cover the post with shrink tubing.
13) Cut about 1 1/4 inch Shrink Tubing and cover the connector ends (do not close the end holes).
Battery Tester in use:
DISCLAIMER:
If you are not familiar with electrical components and/or working with electronic devices or are not comfortable with soldering,
Do Not attempt anything in this tutorial!
The information contained in this tutorial is for educational purposes only and if acted on, it is done so at the user's own risk.
I cannot and will not be held liable for damages, injury, or even death that may arise by following information herein.
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