Are there any critical design differences between mechanicals?

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GreekLion

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I apologize if this has been brought up, but the more I learn about mechanical mods, it seems the the more I do not understand.

Each mechanical mod has no electronics, save for the optional 2cent safety chip and similar products, and run on a battery (or more) unregulated.

There are many mechanical mods out there, and many clones, but do any function drastically different between one another? How does one consider one mechanical good and another not, other than cosmetics?
 

PONKAW

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There are many mechanical mods out there, and many clones, but do any function drastically different between one another? How does one consider one mechanical good and another not, other than cosmetics?

In a word ...not really... (ok, two words)
The only real functionality that can be checked is the voltage drop off ie; the internal resistance of a device. This can cause minor variations on your vape ... you are at the mercy of the battery you use... you are basically harnessing what ever power the battery is able to provide at any given moment, your vape from a fresh 4.2v batt. off the charger is going to be different two hours later when the batt. is at 3.8. (for the sake of discussion, there are differences from this example when sub-ohming) The batterys "mah" rating and your atomizers resistance determine the temp of the vape and how long it can be reasonably maintained.

Things most vapors look for:
- Material used. Steel, Copper, Brass etc.
- Is the mod able to use various size battery's with out extra or optional extensions... (telescopic are popular)
- Does the switch use a spring or opposing magnets?...does the switch lock to prevent inadvertent firing?...does it have a smooth or chunky action?... how long and stiff is the switches throw?
- Does the mod have sufficient battery venting?
- Does the mod have adjustable firing and negative terminal pins?
- Can a kick be installed to allow for adjustable V/Ws?
- Are replacement parts available?

Basic stuff really... For me it really cones down to ergonomics and smooth function.
Some mods are just pleasant and easy to use ... and some with quirks can drive you nuts.
Look for reviews... and avoid being an early adopter to the very "latest and greatest".
 
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suspectK

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The things I look at when I'm looking at a mech:

Switch- needs to be nice and smooth(if not smooth, easily made that way), making good contact with switch housing or tube is the most important factor with a switch-now that more and more modders are drifting away from the nemesis-like approach to mods.
Tube- I like solid tubs, but I'm glad my first mod was a telescope. I really got to experience the different performance I'd get from each different type and/or size battery.
Threads- Need to be PERFECT...there's a certain sound good threads make- threads that are making consistent contact all the way through the threading.
Heat distribution- How is it going to handle heat? or are there any areas of the mod that could cause heat?__which falls under threading and the switch, but more specific inspection..

But PONKAW nailed it...not much to mods..
 

Firestorm

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For me, the most interesting parts of a mechanical mod are the top cap and switch design and I believe that both greatly impact the usability of the mod. Most people like to fit their atomizers flush and eliminate battery rattle and some top cap and switch designs marvelously facilitate or sadly prohibit this. With respect to top caps, some have floating pins, telescoping pins, and new spring loaded pins that require no battery or atomizer adjustment. Some mods come with hybrid adapters instead of traditional top caps. With respect to switches, some are recessed and some are not; some have locking rings, others have more innovative locking mechanisms, and some cannot be locked; some have a long throw and some have a short throw; some come with springs and some come with or work with magnets.

Aside from top caps and switches, there are differences in materials. Mechanical mods can come in different grades of SS, brass, aluminum bronze, copper, aluminum, and titanium - all of these feel different and have different conductivity. With respect to tubes, some mods come with extensions for different sized batteries and others come with different sizes of solid tubes for different sized batteries.

Periodically I hear people put down mechanical mods and refer to them simply as metal battery tubes. In my opinion tubes are pretty boring - it's the top cap and switch designs that I enjoy.
 

Traijan

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Of the mech mods that I've seen, had or read about the only one that seemed to be "drastically" different in some way is a mech mod that has some sort of different locking device, (can't remember the name of the mod off the top of my head) that when you turn the base, it moves some sort of internal plate to lock the fire switch from being turned on.

I think the people above me have covered it pretty well with what each piece does and how it can be different, but in it's absolute basic form, they are all pretty much the same. A tube with a firing button and a top cap. The firing button allows power when depressed to go from the battery to the top cap and ultimately to the atomizer.

It's really more about presentation to me. Some are works of art (although mass produced art but art none the less) and some are quite utilitarian looking. Something for almost everybody that wants to use one.

Some work better than others as explained above due to the resistances of the metals that the power has to go through to get to the atomizer however... For me... Unless the voltage drop is really substantial, I just can't tell the difference in a mech mod that a store says is "hard hitting" compared to a mech mod that is supposedly not so hard hitting and when push comes to shove and I looked up reviews of the devices online I see that the VD (voltage drop) is nearly non existent in my opinion. One of them had a VD of something like .1, and the other a .2. I guess I just don't have a refined enough pallet to tell the difference between a Hard hitting device that only has a .1 VD compared to a not so hard hitting device that might have a .2 VD. However, I'm sure that some folks do, or at least believe that they do.

I think of the VD as being sort of like computers for me. I'm a computer nerd and when I hear that some SSD hard drive performs 2.3% faster in the read/write abilities, I usually would go out and buy it (if I had the extra money) and to me I notice that it's faster, at least I *think* I notice that it's faster, it could also be the placebo effect of a new SSD installed in my computer with real world test data to show that it performs 2.3% faster than what I had previous. So, when I see people that say they can tell the difference and that it's major between something like .1 and .2 in VD, I have to believe them since I believe that I can tell the difference between hard drives that perform as little as 2.3% faster or at least I believe that I think I can tell the difference in real world use. LOL.

Anyway, the whole thing to me wraps up in this way...

How much does it cost
How aesthetically pleasing is the device to my eye
How smooth are the threads and firing button and lastly but most importantly
Is it safe to use or are there a lot of people saying that the firing button sticks and or it has some sort of overheating issues from somehow shorting out.

But they basically all work the same, delivering power to your atomizer, some do it more efficiently than others but all basically the same principles, just some are prettier than others and have a higher quality level than others..

Edit: So, do they perform drastically different? In my opinion no. They all perform the same as far as delivering power to the atomizer to turn our liquid into a vapor that we inhale. The only difference to me is that they may look different, and the quality of the materials used and how they're assembled is different on some mech mods but the vast majority that I've looked at or had are all basically the same, a tube (box or other shaped battery holder), that holds a battery and allows that batteries power to get to my atomizer.
 
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edyle

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I apologize if this has been brought up, but the more I learn about mechanical mods, it seems the the more I do not understand.

Each mechanical mod has no electronics, save for the optional 2cent safety chip and similar products, and run on a battery (or more) unregulated.

There are many mechanical mods out there, and many clones, but do any function drastically different between one another? How does one consider one mechanical good and another not, other than cosmetics?

Critical differences between mech mods:

1: Top fired or bottom fired.
2: Insulation:
(a) on positive center pin
(b) on switch
3: Metal : steel, brass, other.
4: Interface : most are 510-only; some are 510/eGo like an eGo battery
5: Can/cannot take 18650+kick
6: Center pin: floating or adjustable or fixed
7: Threading: many are M20x1; some use M21x1
Threading affects what toppers can work with them in hybrid mode.

8: Box mechs with parallel batteries versus tube mechs with 1 battery. ?
 
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nynvolt

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Top cap/pin and button design. The rest is mostly aesthetic. Sure materials are different but that's not necessarily critical. It's designed to pass current so all are going to do a fair job of it.

Most buttons I've seen are, a spring/magnets and a button connected to a screw with insulators. You push the button which pushes the screw into the battery. It works but has faults. The screw works it's way loose, the button can slide crooked and feel rough, springs can melt, magnets break etc.

The best button design I've seen is in the cv-1 virtus. The button is not connected to the bottom pin. You adjust for battery rattle with a bottom screw. The button has a nipple that makes contact to the bottom, stationary button. It avoids a lot of the faults in the other button type, plus it won't ever stick in the fire position.

Top caps, most are dual screw type. They work pretty good but can be a hassle when swapping attys. Better is a floating pin with a battery rattle adjustment screw. Best (IMO) is the hybrid cap. Although it has its own unique faults, mainly needing a protruding positive in the atty and some don't. But its ease and quickly being able to switch attys makes it rock.
 
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