This tin is the perfect hand held mod for a single 18650 Battery. This thread is a how to mod one as I did. Sorry it is so long but hope it helps some understand it a little better. It was liked so much in this thread I decided to try throwing this together.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/96188-eclipse-mints-tin-mod.html
You can add the LED or not up to you. You may use different switches other then what I did and that can be done easier then the way I do with this switch.
And most of all in the following info I can`t stress enough on being sure the positive area is done to prevent shorting..
I would read the thread over first then start building so you can understand more the direction the steps go like this for. If there are any questions feel free to ask.
Now lets get started.
Lets get that battery to fit the tin first off.
I don`t know if this will matter but I stick the battery on the side of the box that does not have the seam from making it.
In this picture you will see I crimped the rolled lip of the tin using vise grips and a small piece of wood to limit the marking of the tin.
You want to crimp it hard to get that rolled lip flat. Do so just short of the center of the box so it will still snap shut as designed.
Now we need to do the same to the side with the lid. I didn`t use the wood on this side though.
I then insert a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube to form the box slightly more. Once I slide it to the side of where it was crimped I pinch slightly the center to the back this will help the lid shut and snap shut.. This might not be necessary though but I do it so here it is.
The positive battery tube holder for more info on this tube see this link.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/95286-syringe-holder-18650-tube-mod.html
I cut this tube just short of the battery length as seen in this picture.
Now this picture will cover the positive battery contact area in the box parts needed.
I used Liquid electrical tape for this. You could use a number of other things for it like rubber caulking or anything that would stick to the tin and allow no current transfer. Something permanent and very thin.
I also stuck a small gasket material to this while it was going to dry. And to be sure it was in fact in a thin layer and for proper battery placement I inserted the tube and the battery negative side first to flatten and level this before it dried. Then remove tube and battery being sure to clean them off incase any got on them. Now simply let that dry. Picture of covered area in box
Battery/atty connector)
Once the box is dry I then inserted the tube once more to find where to drill the hole for the battery/atty connector. I drilled it next to the tube doing this from the inside to get as close as possible to it. Remove the battery tube once again.
LED)
Now you can locate where to install a LED if desired and drill that hole. I stuck mine directly in the corner by the atty connector hole.
Switch)
I put my switch on the side of the box since there just is no room on the top with the 18650 battery taking up half the space and the atomizer connector taking up some as well.
One thing to watch here is when the battery/atty connector is installed the switch could hit it so I recommend placing the switch at almost completely within the top part of the lettering on the boxes side.
You may consider doing this to the front or back of the box just be sure the contacts will not be touching the box when installed. and you account for battery/atty connector being in place.
Here is a picture with my drilled holes
This step will be using these parts
We will be wiring the switch now. Leave plenty of length for the positive wires to reach where they go.
On one leg of the switch you want to attach a single wire that will reach to the center pin and even farther out the hole you have drilled for the battery/atty connector. It will be shortened later so nothing is to long here but you can be to short.
On the other leg of the switch attach a positive wire that when the switch is in place will comfortably reach the battery positive area of the box. You can now also solder the copper tape to the end of that wire.
If you choose to use a LED)
Find your positive Leg on the LED attach a 470 ohm resister
to the post. Attach a length of positive wire for reaching where the LED will be mounted to the switch. Prep the end. I at this time would insulate this connection area at least to where the wire is. I used liquid electrical tape and a small section of fish aquarium air hose for this. Now the wire coming off this should be attached to the same leg of the switch as the positive wire that is going to run to the center pin of the battery/atty connector.
Attach a ground wire to the negative leg of the LED. a long section to go to the switch hole and out it which will then be covered soon.
For this we will be attaching a single ground wire to the battery/atty connector on the inside of the connector`s barrel.
The length of this wire needs to reach out the switch hole so make it long.
You need to pop the connector apart for this. Be sure to save the pieces (center pin, and rubber spacer) Once the connector cools you can install the rubber gasket into the hole of the large connector again. Not the positive center pin though.
The battery/ atty connector can now be installed into the box. I use super glue on the outside of this to hold it straight with a atomizer and cart to help make it straight Get it pushed into the hole as far as you want. I go all the way to the ring of the connector on mine.
There are two things to consider for this next step. You don`t want it blocking the battery tube sleeve so you may install it to be sure. And if you used an LED make sure it doesn`t block that hole.
Now once the super glue sets holding the connector straight apply 2 part epoxy, JB weld or your chosen method to the inside of the box and around this connector for keeping it in place.
Once you get this around the connector remove the tube for the battery again.
The black ground wire needs to be stuck out the switch hole once this hardens and becomes stable.
Ok now you have a mess of wires attached to the switch and possibly a LED. Lets get them into the box.
If you are using an LED stick it in the hole you have pre-drilled for it then super glue is what I use to keep it there. Try to place the ground wire to the closest part of the box keeping the positive leg towards the open center of the box. Stick the ground wire out the switch hole.
The battery atty connector ground wire needs to be stuck out the switch hole now. If you used an LED combine these to wirers in this step. Strip the wire to where it comes out of the box the length needs to be so it can wrap around the switch when installed.
Now the positive wire for the battery/atty center pin needs to be stuck out the connectors hole should still be plenty long to do this.
Arrange the switch to insert into it`s hole. You can wrap the ground wires around it and install the lock washer and nut now from the outside.
Once you get it tight you can then bend the remaining ground wires back and forth till the break off where they go under the switch`s nut and lock washer.
Now with the positive center pin wire you can shorten it to the length you are comfortable working with here. I cut it fairly
close but read what needs done here first. You will strip the cover off the wire just enough to stick into the center pin. I hold the box over it to do this rather then some other way. I stick the wire into the hole and have a blob of solder already on my soldering iron to apply it into onto the wire and hole.
Or here is another possible way.
You can strip the wire stick it through the center pin set it all upright then heat the wire and center pin then let solder run into the hole down the wire. Depends how well you solder to do this. And a dremel can also fix this with a cut off disk. Just be sure the top of the center pin is a smooth finish when done. Now insert the center pin into the connector.
Ok back to the inside of the box we still have the copper tap to put into place you need to peel the backing off the tape so it will stick and use a pin or something to push it over so it will be in contacting area for battery. Now the battery tube needs a small spot cut into it for the battery wire to go under. Insert the tube and see that the wire matches up with this slot. Then once its in place stick the battery in and apply some pressure to keep the copper tape and cause it to stick good.
This should be something like what it looks like in there.
On the lid of the tin eyeball approximately where the center of the battery would be if it was in the shut position. Add a drop of solder to that spot on the inside of the lid. The tin will take solder if you get it hot enough.
This should be it. So lets do a safety exam on all wires and connections. If they look good remove the battery and lets check with a meter for grounding points. Since the tin is metal it is very important to be sure the positive current must be isolated to itself.
You can check by placing the meter to ohm setting and touch the two probes together this should jump the meter if it does then put a probe on the switch leg that goes to the copper tape. Now touch the other probe to the inside of the box. If this causes the meter to jump there is a big problem with this positive contacting the tin somewhere. Most likely the copper tape end. The meter should not jump.
Now place the probe into the battery/atty connector on the center pin. The other probe to the inside of the tin box again. Hit the switch the meter should not jump or we again have a problem. Once you do this check I`d say you are pretty safe on the positive circuit being isolated.
Final check for ground side of current. Hold a probe to the outside on the battery atty connector. The other probe to the inside of box the meter should jump for this.
If all that worked fine lets install the battery positive end first. Shut the lid and check the following.
For those with a led you can check to see if the circuit is in fact working by hitting the switch wanting to see the LED light up.
with a atomizer attached. Kind of do this fast and try the device for a vape. If it works great job. But if it don`t slightly press the lid where the solder point is trying to make contact there.
If this causes it to work you can just add more solder to that point to build it up.
If it doesn't check your battery to be sure it`s not warm. If it is the circuit is grounding somewhere. Check everything again with the meter. ect.
Mine working with Green LED
If the lid doesn`t want to snap shut you can squeeze the tin at the center for it to start working again. It won`t take much be easy with it.
I also added styrofoam into the empty space with a magnet bought at Wal-Mart in the crafts section for assisting the lid to stay shut. Think it helps maybe.
For a on off safety switch I used a small section of the gasket materiel to stick inside the lid. Cut a hole in it for the on position and flip it to the solid side for off. Check it to see that it is working in both on and off.
Sounds more complicated then it really is and makes a great mod so hope you will give this a try. Thanks for looking and happy modding.
The picture below is the first one I made to the left the one in this thread being made with LED on the right and My Nico-Drip 5 Volt in the center.
These have become my favorite mods now.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/96188-eclipse-mints-tin-mod.html
You can add the LED or not up to you. You may use different switches other then what I did and that can be done easier then the way I do with this switch.
And most of all in the following info I can`t stress enough on being sure the positive area is done to prevent shorting..
I would read the thread over first then start building so you can understand more the direction the steps go like this for. If there are any questions feel free to ask.
Now lets get started.
Lets get that battery to fit the tin first off.
I don`t know if this will matter but I stick the battery on the side of the box that does not have the seam from making it.
In this picture you will see I crimped the rolled lip of the tin using vise grips and a small piece of wood to limit the marking of the tin.
You want to crimp it hard to get that rolled lip flat. Do so just short of the center of the box so it will still snap shut as designed.
Now we need to do the same to the side with the lid. I didn`t use the wood on this side though.
I then insert a piece of 3/4 inch copper tube to form the box slightly more. Once I slide it to the side of where it was crimped I pinch slightly the center to the back this will help the lid shut and snap shut.. This might not be necessary though but I do it so here it is.
The positive battery tube holder for more info on this tube see this link.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/battery-mods/95286-syringe-holder-18650-tube-mod.html
I cut this tube just short of the battery length as seen in this picture.
Now this picture will cover the positive battery contact area in the box parts needed.
I used Liquid electrical tape for this. You could use a number of other things for it like rubber caulking or anything that would stick to the tin and allow no current transfer. Something permanent and very thin.
I also stuck a small gasket material to this while it was going to dry. And to be sure it was in fact in a thin layer and for proper battery placement I inserted the tube and the battery negative side first to flatten and level this before it dried. Then remove tube and battery being sure to clean them off incase any got on them. Now simply let that dry. Picture of covered area in box
Battery/atty connector)
Once the box is dry I then inserted the tube once more to find where to drill the hole for the battery/atty connector. I drilled it next to the tube doing this from the inside to get as close as possible to it. Remove the battery tube once again.
LED)
Now you can locate where to install a LED if desired and drill that hole. I stuck mine directly in the corner by the atty connector hole.
Switch)
I put my switch on the side of the box since there just is no room on the top with the 18650 battery taking up half the space and the atomizer connector taking up some as well.
One thing to watch here is when the battery/atty connector is installed the switch could hit it so I recommend placing the switch at almost completely within the top part of the lettering on the boxes side.
You may consider doing this to the front or back of the box just be sure the contacts will not be touching the box when installed. and you account for battery/atty connector being in place.
Here is a picture with my drilled holes
This step will be using these parts
We will be wiring the switch now. Leave plenty of length for the positive wires to reach where they go.
On one leg of the switch you want to attach a single wire that will reach to the center pin and even farther out the hole you have drilled for the battery/atty connector. It will be shortened later so nothing is to long here but you can be to short.
On the other leg of the switch attach a positive wire that when the switch is in place will comfortably reach the battery positive area of the box. You can now also solder the copper tape to the end of that wire.
If you choose to use a LED)
Find your positive Leg on the LED attach a 470 ohm resister
to the post. Attach a length of positive wire for reaching where the LED will be mounted to the switch. Prep the end. I at this time would insulate this connection area at least to where the wire is. I used liquid electrical tape and a small section of fish aquarium air hose for this. Now the wire coming off this should be attached to the same leg of the switch as the positive wire that is going to run to the center pin of the battery/atty connector.
Attach a ground wire to the negative leg of the LED. a long section to go to the switch hole and out it which will then be covered soon.
For this we will be attaching a single ground wire to the battery/atty connector on the inside of the connector`s barrel.
The length of this wire needs to reach out the switch hole so make it long.
You need to pop the connector apart for this. Be sure to save the pieces (center pin, and rubber spacer) Once the connector cools you can install the rubber gasket into the hole of the large connector again. Not the positive center pin though.
The battery/ atty connector can now be installed into the box. I use super glue on the outside of this to hold it straight with a atomizer and cart to help make it straight Get it pushed into the hole as far as you want. I go all the way to the ring of the connector on mine.
There are two things to consider for this next step. You don`t want it blocking the battery tube sleeve so you may install it to be sure. And if you used an LED make sure it doesn`t block that hole.
Now once the super glue sets holding the connector straight apply 2 part epoxy, JB weld or your chosen method to the inside of the box and around this connector for keeping it in place.
Once you get this around the connector remove the tube for the battery again.
The black ground wire needs to be stuck out the switch hole once this hardens and becomes stable.
Ok now you have a mess of wires attached to the switch and possibly a LED. Lets get them into the box.
If you are using an LED stick it in the hole you have pre-drilled for it then super glue is what I use to keep it there. Try to place the ground wire to the closest part of the box keeping the positive leg towards the open center of the box. Stick the ground wire out the switch hole.
The battery atty connector ground wire needs to be stuck out the switch hole now. If you used an LED combine these to wirers in this step. Strip the wire to where it comes out of the box the length needs to be so it can wrap around the switch when installed.
Now the positive wire for the battery/atty center pin needs to be stuck out the connectors hole should still be plenty long to do this.
Arrange the switch to insert into it`s hole. You can wrap the ground wires around it and install the lock washer and nut now from the outside.
Once you get it tight you can then bend the remaining ground wires back and forth till the break off where they go under the switch`s nut and lock washer.
Now with the positive center pin wire you can shorten it to the length you are comfortable working with here. I cut it fairly
close but read what needs done here first. You will strip the cover off the wire just enough to stick into the center pin. I hold the box over it to do this rather then some other way. I stick the wire into the hole and have a blob of solder already on my soldering iron to apply it into onto the wire and hole.
Or here is another possible way.
You can strip the wire stick it through the center pin set it all upright then heat the wire and center pin then let solder run into the hole down the wire. Depends how well you solder to do this. And a dremel can also fix this with a cut off disk. Just be sure the top of the center pin is a smooth finish when done. Now insert the center pin into the connector.
Ok back to the inside of the box we still have the copper tap to put into place you need to peel the backing off the tape so it will stick and use a pin or something to push it over so it will be in contacting area for battery. Now the battery tube needs a small spot cut into it for the battery wire to go under. Insert the tube and see that the wire matches up with this slot. Then once its in place stick the battery in and apply some pressure to keep the copper tape and cause it to stick good.
This should be something like what it looks like in there.
On the lid of the tin eyeball approximately where the center of the battery would be if it was in the shut position. Add a drop of solder to that spot on the inside of the lid. The tin will take solder if you get it hot enough.
This should be it. So lets do a safety exam on all wires and connections. If they look good remove the battery and lets check with a meter for grounding points. Since the tin is metal it is very important to be sure the positive current must be isolated to itself.
You can check by placing the meter to ohm setting and touch the two probes together this should jump the meter if it does then put a probe on the switch leg that goes to the copper tape. Now touch the other probe to the inside of the box. If this causes the meter to jump there is a big problem with this positive contacting the tin somewhere. Most likely the copper tape end. The meter should not jump.
Now place the probe into the battery/atty connector on the center pin. The other probe to the inside of the tin box again. Hit the switch the meter should not jump or we again have a problem. Once you do this check I`d say you are pretty safe on the positive circuit being isolated.
Final check for ground side of current. Hold a probe to the outside on the battery atty connector. The other probe to the inside of box the meter should jump for this.
If all that worked fine lets install the battery positive end first. Shut the lid and check the following.
For those with a led you can check to see if the circuit is in fact working by hitting the switch wanting to see the LED light up.
with a atomizer attached. Kind of do this fast and try the device for a vape. If it works great job. But if it don`t slightly press the lid where the solder point is trying to make contact there.
If this causes it to work you can just add more solder to that point to build it up.
If it doesn't check your battery to be sure it`s not warm. If it is the circuit is grounding somewhere. Check everything again with the meter. ect.
Mine working with Green LED
If the lid doesn`t want to snap shut you can squeeze the tin at the center for it to start working again. It won`t take much be easy with it.
I also added styrofoam into the empty space with a magnet bought at Wal-Mart in the crafts section for assisting the lid to stay shut. Think it helps maybe.
For a on off safety switch I used a small section of the gasket materiel to stick inside the lid. Cut a hole in it for the on position and flip it to the solid side for off. Check it to see that it is working in both on and off.
Sounds more complicated then it really is and makes a great mod so hope you will give this a try. Thanks for looking and happy modding.
The picture below is the first one I made to the left the one in this thread being made with LED on the right and My Nico-Drip 5 Volt in the center.
These have become my favorite mods now.
I'm glad you found these, I've been using mine exclusively since I made it.
