Sigelei Kicked - Have anyone tried this?

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crxess

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A Kick is not really neccessary... Its a nice addition to have in your mechs but $40 is pretty darn steep.

The argument that people would need kicks because they cant wrap a sub ohm coil is, well, idiotic. Why did you even get a mech to begin with if you dont have control over your coils?

Take a look at the shear # of Ego type batteries sold/failed/replaced annually. Many failing at the control head.
A mechanical in it most basic function is a replaceable battery holder capable of delivering power on demand. If a battery fails, you only replace the battery, maintaining the controller.(mod)
I have used me Mech's for convenience, with everything from tanks to cartomizers and even a ce5 or two with 1.5ohm coils. My choice.

That does not make me IDIOTIC and I'd appreciate you not making such reference off the cuff:glare:.

and our discussion is about a new kick under 1/2 the cost!
 
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Kanj.nguyen

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Take a look at the shear # of Ego type batteries sold/failed/replaced annually. Many failing at the control head.
A mechanical in it most basic function is a replaceable battery holder capable of delivering power on demand. If a battery fails, you only replace the battery, maintaining the controller.(mod)
I have used me Mech's for convenience, with everything from Tanks to cartomizers and even a ce5 or two with 1.5ohm coils. My choice.

That does not make me IDIOTIC and I'd appreciate you not making such reference off the cuff:glare:.

and our discussion is about a new kick under 1/2 the cost!

Hmm, was my comment directed at you? I was talking to the guy on the first page.

I should correct myself: what i meant is, if you cant wrap a coil, you dont need mechs, especially WITH a kick. That combo just makes no sense. Anything that can be done by a kicked mech on a non-rebuildable topper can be done with a cheap VV/VW replaceable battery device like a VAMO. The kick also negates somewhat the durability of a mech since it adds circuitry that can be fried, and the cost of replacing a kick is greater than getting a brand new VAMO.

To address the reverse side of the matter, even WITH a kick if you cant wrap a coil you cant vape rebuildables regardless; a kick does not fix this.
 

qorax

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I've two Mechanicals, no RBA, no Kick, just Cartomizer-Tanks on top of each.
I've no other Mod, no VV, VW, P-vari or whatever... and do not intend one as well.

I'm happily chain-vaping my Mech+F-16 to glory.
I'm in love with this config. It satisfies me, completely. W/out a kick my Panasonic 18650 inside takes me easily thru a day & half, w/out a/ny drop on vape quality.

Around the 2nd half of the next day - when I feel that the vape is not warm enough - I get it, I understand that it's time to replace, the battery - that's my device's "tell". And then, I just put another Panny inside -- then vape to glory all over again. How complicated that is? My ignorance is my bliss I guess!
 
Ide say if you get a kick for 1/2 the cost of the original to use in your mech (which is what its meant for) then it cant hurt anything trying it, incase you do want to use it for some juices that taste better at lower volts, and to use as a fuse seems legit to me. I would think about the fact that the limit MAYBE the same as the original kick at 10Watt cut off but which at 4.2v on 1.7/1.8ohms carto/clear/wick-n-coil is your max if the case. (1.7/1.8ohm coil and up pretty much) you do kinda rob yourself of the 1.5ohm and 1.2ohm range and below IF you are wrapping your own coils... so if you wanna use a clearo or carto on your mech, yeah it will be fine. but for $10-$15.00 for a kick, ide even get one just to have(for versatility sake), even though my normal vape is around 0.7/0.6ohm.

I think the vamo is a 15Watt limit, at around $50-$60.00 on some of the vendors i deal with. But its always good to have a 2nd APV anyway. Im not agreeing exactly with Kanj.nguyen, im just wording it the way i feel it should be worded.

Live long, vape on.
 

peraspera

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Hmm, was my comment directed at you? I was talking to the guy on the first page.

I should correct myself: what i meant is, if you cant wrap a coil, you dont need mechs, especially WITH a kick. That combo just makes no sense. Anything that can be done by a kicked mech on a non-rebuildable topper can be done with a cheap VV/VW replaceable battery device like a VAMO. The kick also negates somewhat the durability of a mech since it adds circuitry that can be fried, and the cost of replacing a kick is greater than getting a brand new VAMO.

To address the reverse side of the matter, even WITH a kick if you cant wrap a coil you cant vape rebuildables regardless; a kick does not fix this.

I have a kicked K100 as well as an nHaler Curve with a Can (DNA 12 inside). I bought mechanicals because I can use them while waiting for replacements should the Kick or Can fail. Also, the Curve and K100 don't look like they would be more at home in the toolbox in the garage or Lowe's plumbing department which is how I tend to view nearly all PVs.

If someone wants regulated power and doesn't need the screen, a kicked mechanical might be a perfect solution for out and about or for using in an environment where one doesn't want to worry about smashing a screen.

All of my favorite juices contain complex, nuanced flavors that die with sub oHm coils. While some people are mightily impressed with that style of vaping I would actually pay good money to avoid it. I much prefer regulated power used with my AMP Tanks that produce exactly the same taste and performance as manual dripping. I've not had any problems building RBSs and RDAs but I'm not terribly interested in the hassle for what is, for me, an inferior vape to my AMP Tanks.

Just because you can't see the value in a kicked mechanical doesn't mean that others don't. We need to offer our fellow vapers as much help as we can so they can successfully vape in a way that they prefer rather than foisting our own style of vaping preferences on them and making contemptuous comments.
 
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nahoku

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I think a kicked mech makes a lot of sense if you're not a SLR fan. Constant regulated voltage hitting the delivery device is much better than relying on a battery that's decreasing in power by the second. By the way, you can't compare a kicked mech to a Vamo... rather, the comparison should be a kicked mech to a Provari, limited to 10 watts.
 
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Oktyabr

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I think a kicked mech makes a lot of sense if you're not a SLR fan. Constant regulated voltage hitting the delivery device is much better than relying on a battery that's decreasing in power by the second. By the way, you can't compare a kicked mech to a Vamo... rather, the comparison should be a kicked mech to a Provari, limited to 10 watts.

No, the Vamo comparison is more accurate. The kick adjusts voltage to provide a consistent wattage, which is what VW mode on a Vamo does, and also where the Vamo excels since it can be adjusted all the way up to 15 watts. The Provari is only variable voltage.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-apv-reviews/284473-kick-evolv.html
 

nahoku

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No, the Vamo comparison is more accurate. The kick adjusts voltage to provide a consistent wattage, which is what VW mode on a Vamo does, and also where the Vamo excels since it can be adjusted all the way up to 15 watts. The Provari is only variable voltage.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/e-cigarette-apv-reviews/284473-kick-evolv.html

I have to disagree. The Kick outputs a "flat DC" voltage (like the Provari), while the Vamo outputs "pulsed DC".

For example, if your kick voltage ends up to be 3.7 volts for the attached delivery device, then you're actually getting 3.7 volts flat DC applied to the delivery device. On the Vamo, 3.7 volts (or the equiv in wattage for the specific device) is actually a 6 volt peak with a specified pulse width to obtain the average value of 3.7 volts.

The kick is set up to work as a constant wattage device, and it uses the delivery device resistance to calculate it's voltage adjustments... just like the Vamo works in VW, but the comparison ends there.

We're actually both correct. It's just that I'm looking at it more from an electronics operation point of view.
 
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peraspera

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...The Kick outputs a "flat DC" voltage (like the Provari), while the Vamo outputs "pulsed DC".
...

According to the ProVape FAQ the Provari uses PWM.
Does the ProVari use PWM? (pulse-width modulation)

Yes, the ProVari is using PWM technology

It is my understanding that the Provari PWM pulses faster than what is used in the Chinese VW devices. I've seen a Phil Busardo video showing the difference but can't recall which one it was — maybe the VAMO review?

I don't know how the Evolv Kick and DNA 12 inside my Can actually work but Drew at nHaler did tell me that neither use PWM which is consistent with your comment.
 

nahoku

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According to the ProVape FAQ the Provari uses PWM.


It is my understanding that the Provari PWM pulses faster than what is used in the Chinese VW devices. I've seen a Phil Busardo video showing the difference but can't recall which one it was — maybe the VAMO review?

I don't know how the Evolv Kick and DNA 12 inside my Can actually work but Drew at nHaler did tell me that neither use PWM which is consistent with your comment.

Yes indeed, the Provari does use PWM running at 800hz. Here's a Provari vs Vamo thread where they show the Provari output as flat DC on o-scope captures. Unfortunately Phil never showed any waveform on Provaris... at least I don't recall any. If he did, it was very limited. However, I vaguely seem to recall him mentioning something about flat DC on the Provari.

I also had an email conversation with Brandon of Evolv about the kick's output and this was his reply...
"The Kick, like all of our products, is not PWM but rather outputs a DC signal."

I'm a retired engineer of 28 years, and to a fault I tend to look at things too technically! One of the bad habits I need to break now that I'm retired! :facepalm:
 

Oktyabr

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I have to disagree. The Kick outputs a "flat DC" voltage (like the Provari), while the Vamo outputs "pulsed DC".

For example, if your kick voltage ends up to be 3.7 volts for the attached delivery device, then you're actually getting 3.7 volts flat DC applied to the delivery device. On the Vamo, 3.7 volts (or the equiv in wattage for the specific device) is actually a 6 volt peak with a specified pulse width to obtain the average value of 3.7 volts.

The kick is set up to work as a constant wattage device, and it uses the delivery device resistance to calculate it's voltage adjustments... just like the Vamo works in VW, but the comparison ends there.

We're actually both correct. It's just that I'm looking at it more from an electronics operation point of view.

Yes, *every* regulated device uses some form of regulation (including the kick). There is PWM and one other method is to insert a hard resistance into the circuit which adds resistance so it's not normally used... This is in fact what the kick does with it's "direct DC", via a potentiometer (as do the ego style bats like the Spinner and Twist.) This actually wastes electricity and so isn't often used in advanced battery powered electronics. I don't use a kick but ask around about battery life between kicked and unkicked.

Variable volt devices like the Vamo and Provari use PWM. Provari uses a digital filter that masks the cycle which provides a smoother output. The poor old Vamo (and most other VV) devices use unfiltered PWM at or above 30 Hz. That's thirty times a *second*. I know there are purists out there that think that they can detect a 30Hz signal in a heating element :rolleyes: but you won't read these same people complaining about that same frequency when it's sound being produced by a speaker and not a heating element. Watch a video of a coil being fired by a Vamo and one being fired by a Provari... Can you tell which is which... because maybe the heating element is flickering or something? Nope. ;)

"The main advantage of PWM is that power loss in the switching devices is very low. When a switch is off there is practically no current, and when it is on, there is almost no voltage drop across the switch. Power loss, being the product of voltage and current, is thus in both cases close to zero. PWM also works well with digital controls, which, because of their on/off nature, can easily set the needed duty cycle." -- From wikipedia: Pulse-width modulation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
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