Questions about building e-pipe

[ragnarokstar]

I think I'm going the rout of using the brass sig 19 for the switch and pressing it into the chamber. Should look awesome with some patina. And I might steal that idea about soldering a vapesafe for the positive. So it'll look like this only not sticking out the bottom.

 

[Unhooked]

Yeah! I think what you are saying is to take a short mod that takes a really short battery and is fired by pressing the end, take off the 510 connection, snip the wires to the 510 connection, dismember an old ego battery, use the Atty end of that, wire the atty end of the ego to the wires from the mod. Drill a hole big enough in a nice big standard pipe bowl to fit the shorty mod, epoxy the old EGO atty connector into the stem and done! My idea of a quick and dirty great looking e-pipe! Got a cheap, shorty PV with an end fire button in mind that would work?

 

[Artifex75]

I'm building an e-pipe out of a wicked Ukrainian pipe that I have. I'm going cheap and simple. I'm drilling out the wind cap for a button ($3), inserting a 510 connector ($7) at the end of the stem and inserting the battery ($9) down into the bowl. I've got tons of wire laying around, so that's free. I'm using the 510 because I already have clearomizers to fit. I'll post when the parts come in and I get it together.

 

[Ken_A]

I haven't gotten around to making the time and effort yet, but maybe this pic I keep of eGo wiring will help some new people out

 

[DanMan03]

Hey kena, how do you keep from breaking your solder joints on the adapter. My tank gets stuck sometimes, so it wants to take the adapter with it and then that turns the wires inside and puts stress on the solder, then making them break. I was thinking of going with a 510 and just appoxying that in so it wouldn't try to turn when loosening a tank.

 

[Ken_A]

well.. as said, I have not actually MADE a pipe yet. I have used a Diablo, which is epoxied in, and it does not work right now because putting the tanks on and off twisted the connection... etc. etc. etc.

I would think that because pipe stems have smaller holes, some GOOD epoxy and screw it in would probably work the best. give you stability on two fronts.
you would want to attach your wires - thread them through - attach the connector to the pipe stem - THEN solder the wires into the pipe bowl.
basically work from the mouthpiece backwards and you should be OK.

 

[DanMan03]

well.. as said, I have not actually MADE a pipe yet. I have used a Diablo, which is epoxied in, and it does not work right now because putting the tanks on and off twisted the connection... etc. etc. etc.

I would think that because pipe stems have smaller holes, some GOOD epoxy and screw it in would probably work the best. give you stability on two fronts.
you would want to attach your wires - thread them through - attach the connector to the pipe stem - THEN solder the wires into the pipe bowl.
basically work from the mouthpiece backwards and you should be OK.

That's my mistake. I thought you had made a few before. Yeah, I am having a problem with the connections breaking off. I use a cone to dress up the adapter though, so it screws in. I think I'm going to try and see how well lock tight works. Hopefully it will keep the tank from unscrewing the adapter with it.

 

[sidious_999]

this thread is amazing . im still looking for like someone to take pictures as they are making a pipe. i understand the hard part of wiring the switches but my confusion begins with what sits in the bottom of the bowl, how is that attatched to the bottom of the bowl and what "button" is being used at the top . i have watched the videos on yo9utube where the one is just soldered to the battery with an ego button, and another where the guy uses forks on the bottom of the pipe. im wanting to make a conversion hopefully somehow with a manual switch but i feel im going to have to make my own bowl. someone should take some pictures on their next pipe as they go and get a hardware list

 

[DanMan03]

There are a lot of things you can put at the bottom of the bowl. As long as it conducts electricity, you'll be good. My first pipe I made, I used a square nut and the second one I made, I used a small metal piece off a battery connector. Epipemods uses their VapeSafe fuse, which is what I wanted to use, but I wired it up wrong and blew it. If you are worried about whatever you put in the bottom of the bowl, you can always epoxy or use superglue to hold the connector down. As for the manual switch, the most popular is seems is using an epipemods button that the sell. It has a magnet on the bottom which attaches to the battery. You.ll need to use a keyring at the top of the bowl for your negative port. It will sit in between the battery and the button, that way when you press down on the button, it will make contact with the keyring and start powering your pipe.

 

[sidious_999]

Is the key ring glued on? And as for the stuff to get all this where do you get buttons and wires switches ect

 

[DanMan03]

Is the key ring glued on? And as for the stuff to get all this where do you get buttons and wires switches ect

Yes you glue the keyring, at least I do. For the buttons you can go here V2 and V2.5 Single Battery Pipe Buttons - Pipe Care & Accessories - Pipe & e-Cig Supplies- Batteries, Atties, Stems, Chargers, etc.

If you want to go with the VapeSafe fuse The VapeSafe- Mod Protection Fuse - Pipe Care & Accessories - Pipe & e-Cig Supplies- Batteries, Atties, Stems, Chargers, etc.

If not, then you can go browse your hardware store for something that will work for a positive connection. Just make sure it will fit your Bowl size.

I buy my atty from a vapor store near me, but if you visit madvapes.com they have a bunch to choose from. You can also order your battery from there.

 

[sidious_999]

what do u mean atty? as in yo9ur 510 connector? and what do u need for wire?

 

[DanMan03]

Yes 510 connector. I just found some old speaker wire. You'll want a pretty small gauge wire, just so it's easy to work with and bend. I've heard others use telephone or Ethernet wiring too.

 

[sidious_999]

Ok pipe builders. I need your opinions on what steps you take when you build your pipe. Compare it to mine: (this is without a vape safe kinda like an epipemods v2 without a fuse...)

Carve rough bowl shape as in close to the size you want but not perfect. I like my bowls at least 2" tall

Drill a little bit in top for button to sit in (7/8")

Drill the battery chamber (3/4")

If shank is going to be added drill hole in side and add shank making sure not to ruin the battery chamber dimension aka if shank is at an angle when being put in shave the top at an angle to make the shank flush. ( I personally glued the shank on then when over it with wood filler)

Drill hole through shank. I like to drill a big/small enough hole for the connector or whatever I'm using as positive to slide through. I picked up some small cheap battery terminals at the hardware store. Then I drill that hole out just on the end to fit my connector.

(Note: depending on positive connector it might be a good idea to do some of the wiring before placing the shank in as in wire your atty connector and put that in the end then get your positive post wired and ready to sit in the bottom of the bowl then when the shank is put on the hard part is done)

Drill hole in bottom just enough to add a magnet to hold battery in bowl. when magnet is in use epoxy, superglue whatever to hold it in, then add wood filler or your choosing to fill the gap so the bottom is back flush

Wiring time, depending on if you have your positive post already in or not, put it in, this part was tricky for me. I had to lift up my positive connector and add some super glue then pressed it down...

Then The ground wire part was tricky for me too, I press fit my battery and key ring and eye balled it depending on what cap I was using (like to use epipemods) and when it was looking good I soldered the ground to the underside of key ring , although next time I might sand the Side of wood next to the keying out a hair so I can solder it in between the wood and keying then sand the solder flush with key ring.

Then I take the pipe and test it. If it fires your good to go, if not then find out why its not firing and fix it, Then sand the outside stain varnish what have you

Notes : since I like sculpting with wood filler i might consider when wiring to actually cut the bowl horizontal right above the bottom of the battery chamber that way I can get a better seat for my positive terminal. The glue pipe back on and texture or whatever with wood filler.

Lol I like wood filler, its sandable


Sorry for long post but hopefully this also helps newer epipe builders out there some...



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

 

[LunchusBoxious]

Anyone try out the v1 button?

 

[Bigfoot1974]

The V1 buttons would be much harder to use in converting a tobacco pipe. They require the top to be cut off and the button to be recessed into the top part just right. Then you have to have magnets to hold the top part onto the main body. THere's more but just trust me that the V1 would be a serious PITA.

 

[LunchusBoxious]

Lol thats what i have been trying to do.... how does the v2 connect to the pipe then??. sorry if this has been covered already... Ive started and havent been able to finish 4 or 5 pipes because of button issues or i melted the wiring for an auto switch...one day I will build one that works...

 

[Bigfoot1974]

The V2 button is much better for DIY. You just need to drill a hole 3/4" wide for the battery and then drill the top of the hole 7/8" to a certain height to set the key ring down into. It works using a magnet at the bottom that holds the battery in down and the button has a spring loaded magnet that attaches to the negative end of the battery. When installed the button hovers above the key ring until pused down to make the connection. There have been a few diagrams posted in either the epipemods thread or the pipe talk thread that shows how it is connected. You will also need to carve out a space down the side of the hole for the wires. Hope this helps and you understand what I've said.

 

[LunchusBoxious]

Ya... I just wasnt sure how.the button connects to the pipe..thanks!

 

[Cavediver]

The V2 button is much better for DIY. You just need to drill a hole 3/4" wide for the battery and then drill the top of the hole 7/8" to a certain height to set the key ring down into. It works using a magnet at the bottom that holds the battery in down and the button has a spring loaded magnet that attaches to the negative end of the battery. When installed the button hovers above the key ring until pused down to make the connection. There have been a few diagrams posted in either the epipemods thread or the pipe talk thread that shows how it is connected. You will also need to carve out a space down the side of the hole for the wires. Hope this helps and you understand what I've said.

Why the negative end?
I'm working on my first build. So far, it's horribly ugly, however, it's all about learning the process with this one (and probably the next one or two).

I spent about an hour trying to find this info last night. I finally gave up and soldered the red wire to the ring.


... And once I typed that, I realize it would be possible to short a positive button to a negative outer connector (ego or 510). However, if the polarity of the connector were reversed, that issue would be eliminated.
Is there another reason for the positive pole to face down in the bowl? I'm going to change mine and do it the correct way, but I'd like to hear the real reasons (or if I'm correct...).

Thanks!