My kayfun is authentic. At least it should be. The seal on the box was broken when it arrived. I purchased it from intaste. Here is my experience with the air hole leaking issue a good number of us are fighting.
After disassembling the build deck and removing the deck from the base, I inspected the inside surface where the air holes are drilled and where the #16 o-ring rides along the wall above the holes.
I found a thin vertical machining mark directly above one of the air holes. This mark was deep enough to be felt with a fingernail but thin enough that it was not easy to see unless the lighting was just right. I almost missed it.
Inspection of the o-ring itself found no noticeable damage and everything seemed to be in its correct place.
My first step was to rid myself of this machining mark. A strip of very fine sand paper over a pencil eraser followed by a dose of Mothers Mag Polish did the trick. This took a good while. The mark was fairly deep and I took it slow. I checked the depth of the mark using the end of a sharpened pencil and only removed material until the tip of said pencil no longer caught on the mark. It is still visible.
Next, I removed the #16 o-ring and wrapped a bit of dental floss in the groove where the ring sits. It took about 5 wraps to get the desired result. Replace the o-ring and mount the deck back into the base to check the fit. I now feel a healthy amount of resistance when the juice flow control is turned and the resistance does not change as I am turning like it did before.
It has been two days of carrying this thing all day at work and I have had no more leaking issues.
I hope someone may be able to use this to fix their own leaker. I wonder if any of you have the same kind of mark?
At $50 this would not have been a issue for me. But at $180, I think it could have been better. I knew instantly that a mark crossing a seal point was no good. Even without the mark, I could tell by feel that the tolerances between the o-ring and the wall were too loose.
After disassembling the build deck and removing the deck from the base, I inspected the inside surface where the air holes are drilled and where the #16 o-ring rides along the wall above the holes.
I found a thin vertical machining mark directly above one of the air holes. This mark was deep enough to be felt with a fingernail but thin enough that it was not easy to see unless the lighting was just right. I almost missed it.
Inspection of the o-ring itself found no noticeable damage and everything seemed to be in its correct place.
My first step was to rid myself of this machining mark. A strip of very fine sand paper over a pencil eraser followed by a dose of Mothers Mag Polish did the trick. This took a good while. The mark was fairly deep and I took it slow. I checked the depth of the mark using the end of a sharpened pencil and only removed material until the tip of said pencil no longer caught on the mark. It is still visible.
Next, I removed the #16 o-ring and wrapped a bit of dental floss in the groove where the ring sits. It took about 5 wraps to get the desired result. Replace the o-ring and mount the deck back into the base to check the fit. I now feel a healthy amount of resistance when the juice flow control is turned and the resistance does not change as I am turning like it did before.
It has been two days of carrying this thing all day at work and I have had no more leaking issues.
I hope someone may be able to use this to fix their own leaker. I wonder if any of you have the same kind of mark?
At $50 this would not have been a issue for me. But at $180, I think it could have been better. I knew instantly that a mark crossing a seal point was no good. Even without the mark, I could tell by feel that the tolerances between the o-ring and the wall were too loose.
