Hussar Project X RTA Clone (by Coppervape)

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stols001

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I am not all verklempt YET because like, I have not opened the package. I also downloaded the PDF. The pics do make me feel guiltier but like, I am NOT even opening it at this time.

It, and I, are not even in the same location at the moment. I better bathe here soon and go help the husband.
 

ShowMeTwice

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@mav2000 --- better photo's with explanations. :)

I rewicked one of my X's earlier today and thought I would put this together. Hopefully it helps you and others.

IMG_0260.JPG ........ IMG_0261.JPG ........ IMG_0267.JPG ........ IMG_0268.JPG ........ IMG_0273.JPG

It really isn't difficult to wick the Project X. I can understand where these pics and the explanations may make it look difficult but it's all there to help.

Once you, or anyone, gets it down it truly is just like wicking any other rta out there. I have many RTA's and find the Project X to be the same as wicking any of them. For me it is like wicking the Hussar v1 or v2 rda's. The build decks are virtually identical.

ETA: Also, in the last photo (rightmost) you can zoom in and see the wick tail on the bottom is longer, in its juice well, when compared to the other tail.

ETA2: With the coil I have installed I am able to tootle-along at 12w MTL with the AF closed down. To 36w frankenMTL (big air) to RDL or even DL with the AF wide open. I vape the X all over the place with adjusting AF/power, TC/TCR too. :D
 
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Fstop

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It’s probably a combo of bad coil placement and bad wicking job

ETA: I’m going to build another coil and follow @ShowMeTwice pictures exactly. I may also watch another wicking tutorial, it’s been over 2 years since I’ve watched a wicking video!
ETA 2: this time I used the coil master, so my coil isn’t so messy!
1c2e5f7477fa483d577736e4208ee10e.jpg
I tried the 3 Major Wicking Techniques successfully. So far I 've done:
Rabbit Ear & tuck under 16mm 2ml Dvarw TopFill
Exocet through the air holes 22mm 2ml FL MTL
No leaks, smooth, flavorful, I'm excited & happy with the results. For the first time I'm enjoying a vape flavor other than Cigarette Tobacco , 0 Nictonine TFA Pina Colada 10%
 
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Fstop

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I think those who can tell the difference between the spaced and non spaced coils must be super tasters. The type of people that can pick up every nuance in a wine or ejuice for that matter. I’m definitely NOT a super taster!
I would suggest using the 2.5mm rod with the X. While I've used a 3mm ID coil in the X and the vape was excellent this atty does perform better with a 2.5mm ID coil or even 2mm ID coil.
Hi
How does ID of Coil Change a vape
2.0, 2.5, 3.0 ?
 

ShowMeTwice

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Hi
How does ID of Coil Change a vape
2.0, 2.5, 3.0 ?
It doesn't necessarily. But it also can. Depends. :)

I build for the RBA I have at hand. Over time and through trial and error I know what works best for me. Coil ID depends on how much space there is on a deck. But bigger is not always better with coil ID's. Surface area plays a role. As does wicking.

And it's all very subjective. My opinion is to try different ID's and find what works best for you. What works for me, or anyone else, likely won't work for you and vice-versa. It comes down to trial and error in finding what is best for each of us.


Others explain this better than I am able.

Coil Diameter Pros & Cons

Coil ID and Taste... is Bigger Better?

Bigger coils vs small coils



VU member Robot Zombie explains it very nicely...

"Coil diameter can make or break your build. Micro, macro, and nano have different heating and wicking properties. What size works best tends to depend on two factors: how much airflow you intend to allow and how much power you're giving to your coils for the amount of surface area they have, though I suppose it really all comes down to the absorbency of your wicking material. So it all matters, really. You have to strike a balance between competing forces in order to get the best performance.

Micro coils are fine if you're building to a high resistance with thinner wire and less airflow - small, low-power, low-surface-area coils. It helps the smaller amount of wire retain heat for bit longer and vaporize more juice in a shorter amount of time. Wicking efficiency is not as much of a concern because you're going to be using less airflow and the amount of heat that the coils can generate/juice they can displace is greatly limited by their size/surface area. They are wicking slower and vaporizing juice slower. Too much wick can easily choke them and keep them from heating up properly, which in turn slows the whole system of interacting forces down - your juice can only wick as fast as the coils burning it allow it to.

Micros can also work well with twisted or claptoned wire at higher power levels. There may be considerable heat and surface area from a numbers standpoint, but because the coils themselves have some passive wicking properties and slower ramp-up times to fight against, a smaller diameter may be more desirable to both decrease ramp-up and minimize spitback. You can get away with less wick because the coils can retain and displace some juice within themselves, which keeps them cooler, watt for watt.

Macros are more effective when building with thicker wire at lower resistances. With all of the heat those coils are capable of generating and retaining across their large surface areas and the amount of airflow necessary to keep them under control, they can sometimes pull juice from your wicks faster than it can move through your wicks, so the extra reserve and lower friction afforded by a wide interior diameter is necessary to prevent the coils from overheating.

Otherwise, the heat from the coils may displace juice faster than the capillary action drawing the juice through the wicks can replenish it.
Not only will your wicking material potentially start to burn, but your juice will too. Well-saturated wicks function as a cooling system to keep that from happening. Horizontal width is also a concern. Make them too wide, and the juice may not be able to cover the distance in time to keep the center wraps from overheating. Sometimes, it is more prudent to increase diameter instead of wraps when increasing surface area.

Nanos are a bit special. They're meant to capitalize on the outer surface of the coil. By wrapping wick around the outside of the coil, more wick makes contact with the coil than traditional methods allow for. This offsets the large amount of heat generated as a result of the miniscule ID and allows a tiny coil to deliver heaps of flavor and vapor. In a way, it's extremely efficient, but finnicky.

All that being said it's mostly trial and error that'll get you what you want. That's how I learned, anyway. There's a lot I'm not accounting for here."
 

ChelsB

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@mav2000 --- better photo's with explanations. :)

I rewicked one of my X's earlier today and thought I would put this together. Hopefully it helps you and others.

View attachment 897807 ........ View attachment 897809 ........ View attachment 897811 ........ View attachment 897813 ........ View attachment 897815

It really isn't difficult to wick the Project X. I can understand where these pics and the explanations may make it look difficult but it's all there to help.

Once you, or anyone, gets it down it truly is just like wicking any other RTA out there. I have many RTA's and find the Project X to be the same as wicking any of them. For me it is like wicking the Hussar v1 or v2 RDA's. The build decks are virtually identical.

ETA: Also, in the last photo (rightmost) you can zoom in and see the wick tail on the bottom is longer, in its juice well, when compared to the other tail.

ETA2: With the coil I have installed I am able to tootle-along at 12w MTL with the AF closed down. To 36w frankenMTL (big air) to RDL or even DL with the AF wide open. I vape the X all over the place with adjusting AF/power, TC/TCR too. :D

What a helpful post with great pics!
 

ChelsB

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Thanks Chels. I also created a tutorial with photos in PDF format. It's in my blog. Just click on the B next to ShowMeTwice and you'll find it.

I FINALLY viewed your tutorial in its entirety (I’d been lazy and using drop in coils lately but now I’m back to building my own coils). It is one of the best tutorials I’ve ever seen and I just wanted to say thank you! Your suggestion to lube up the tiny o-rings for the juice flow control was spot on and now I have no problems with it. I also appreciated your wicking and up close photos of coil installation. GREAT job!!!!
 

ShowMeTwice

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I FINALLY viewed your tutorial in its entirety (I’d been lazy and using drop in coils lately but now I’m back to building my own coils). It is one of the best tutorials I’ve ever seen and I just wanted to say thank you! Your suggestion to lube up the tiny o-rings for the juice flow control was spot on and now I have no problems with it. I also appreciated your wicking and up close photos of coil installation. GREAT job!!!!

Thank you.

I am happy you found it useful. And also that you had success with building your Project X.

:)
 

Janusz

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It is almost exactly one year since my last post in this thread. For over a year Hussar Project X is the only RTA I use. All my other RTAs including doggies and dwarvs were not used even once. My two 4 ml extension are so worn out that today I ordered two more extension kits. I did not followed any new RTA as I doubt there is an easier RTA to use that provides as good vape as Hussar. But maybe I am wrong is there anything that can compete with Hussar?
 

AngeNZ

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    It is almost exactly one year since my last post in this thread. For over a year Hussar Project X is the only RTA I use. All my other RTAs including doggies and dwarvs were not used even once. My two 4 ml extension are so worn out that today I ordered two more extension kits. I did not followed any new RTA as I doubt there is an easier RTA to use that provides as good vape as Hussar. But maybe I am wrong is there anything that can compete with Hussar?

    When you find your perfect RTA, you don't need too look further. And I'm glad you have found that with the Project X :wub:

    The Dvarw DL has become my perfect RTA. Completely by surprise - as I wanted dual side airflow inlets, a low profile tank and top-fill.

    Instead I'm happy as a pig in mud, with my 6ml, single sided airflow inlet, bottom filling TALL Dvarw DL :D

    The only RTA I'd suggest you look at is the Squape Arise RTA. With the MTL inserts, the largest is 4 holes of 0.8mm. This is the equivalent of a single airflow hole of 1.79mm id. This is probably too tight for you - but you can run it without any insert in RDL mode, and use the bottom airflow adjustment to fine-tune it.

    By contrast, the dual sided 3 x 1.5mm holes in the Project X are the equivalent of 2.59mm id each side.
     
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