Weekend Project - A Variable Voltage "Vape Station"

[Hrawk]

Hey everyone

Still pretty new here but have been lurking for a while now, particularly in this sub. Been vaping for around 6 weeks, analogue free after 10+ years of pack a day. I've always been into modding things and feel a strong urge to start with my own vaping gear.

I now have all the parts together for the following project but before I break out the soldering station and get into it, I'd like to run it past you all to see what you think. I have the utmost respect for the skills and talents of the members here and would love to get some feedback.

Essentially it will be an AC driven 'Vape Station'. I spend a huge amount of time sitting at my desk vaping so I figure, why mess with batteries

Parts I intend to use are as follows:

• 12A 5A switchmode supply
• Fused, switched, panel mount IEC power connector
• LM2596 based DC-DC Stepdown
• 10k Linear Pot
• 0-10v Analogue Volt Meter
• 0-3A Analogue Amp Meter
• 5A Inline fuse holder and fuse (not pictured)
• Panel mount RCA socket
• RCA Plug
• 6A 12V Momentary switch
• 40x40x25 Aluminium case
• 510-510 adapter
• 1m 150watt rated twin core silicone speaker cable
• Metal or custom timber enclosure (TBD)

I'll start off using one of my RDA's coiled up at 3.33ohm. This will give me the full range of 0-10v, topping out at 30watt @ 3A. I usually vape at around 8-10 watts so can't really see myself using above 6 or so volt.

Now for some questions.

Do you think I will be able to leave the trimpot on the LM2596 board and wire in the 10k pot in parallel and use the trimpot to adjust my full sweep from 0-10v without going over ? I've not used this particular board before but my understanding is output voltage max is approx 1.5-2v below input voltage. So, would I even need both pots there ?

Am I right in my understanding that even though I can go up to 10v which would appear quite high compared to most mods, due to the high resistance coil I still stay within a comfortable vaping range ?

The LM2596 board is rated for a maximum output of 3A with 2A continuous. Do you think I need to heatsink it or should it be ok with the low duty cycle ?

Finally, what would you do differently and well, should I even be doing this at all ?

Cheers, Hrawk.


Here's a pic of my intended setup.

 

[Hrawk]

To answer some of the more obvious questions before they are even asked:

Why ?
Because I can!

Why not just use an AC USB plug pack and a pass though, it's cheaper you know ?
Pfft, where's the fun in that!

It's going to be HUGE?
Size is not an issue

Why analogue meters?
Classy stuff is classy

Why not use a 200 watt stepdown?
I assure you, the thought has crossed my mind

 

[Katanakaji]

just wondering why your using lm2596, or any buck converter, instead of just adjusting the voltage output of the power supply instead? if you use use a computer psu it would give you both a 12v and 5v rail to use, and then it would be just a matter of figuring out how to adjust the output of the particular psu that you use. sometimes there are already built in trim pots for adjusting, and other times it's just a matter of removing a couple resistors and soldering in a couple pots and caps. seems like this would be a better solution if you are capable.

 

[Hrawk]

The Psu I am using does have a trim pot and allows me to adjust between approx 11.3v and 12.5v. More of a 'fine tuning' kind of thing.

Using the buck is much easier(for $2) than messing with a unit that may get re purposed later on. Plus I don't really need 30amp on the 12v rail.

As for using ATX supplies, I have done many times. They make great bench supplies for 12 & 5v. Move too far from those figures though and efficiency dies in the .... Also this particular psu is not much bigger than a pack of smokes. Can't say the same for an ATX supply.

Cheers for the suggestion though, something to think about.

 

[asdaq]

For vaping a heatsink isn't needed, we pulse and intermittently. As for combining the two pots, I would suggest not doing that as you are more likely to get lost in the settings. In the Just For LM2596 Users thread, early on it is mentioned which pot is a good replacement for the twitchy stock pot, or IIRC a fixed resistor to add to a pot.

 

[Hrawk]

All the parts laid out

Tools, wire and heat shrink

Main wiring done

Remote head complete

All hooked up and working perfectly

 

[Hrawk]

Now I just need to find / make an enclosure and box it all up neatly.

The only real think I need to play with now is the potentiometer value. At present it only takes about 20% of the travel of the pot to hit max voltage. I'll experiment with either adding in a resistor or getting a lower value pot.

All in all, very happy with the way it turned out.

 

[rolf]

build a similar one a long time ago ..used a variable voltage board from the 12 v rail.
I called it power vaping brick....
in the general modding forum 7-4-2012
it has pictures in it.....have fun

 

[Visus]

A Ti 08100 or an OKR-T10 would have been the sauce for some heavy vaping no heat at all.

Nice build love the analog meters
I vape on a ps from a computer as well
I still use my handheld mods but 90% is pt..

 

[retird]

Nice job.....should serve your needs.....

I only use devices that are Variable wattage because as long as the wattage is the same, it matters little what the ohm rating of the atty is (within specs). I get a consistant vape whether it is a 2 ohm or 3 ohm atty. As long as I maintain the wattage setting the vape is the same. On a variable voltage device when you change atty ohm rating you need to adjust the voltage accordingly.Wonder if a watt meter would be better than an amperage meter? Thus you can see what wattage you like and as you change ohm rating of the atty you just need to adjust the wattage accordingly. Just a thought....or maybe just adding a watt meter???

Quick googled this meter (available in USA also) http://powerplusbatteries.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=73

 

[Hrawk]

Cheers for the replies guys.

I did think about adding a power meter however it would be hard if not impossible to find a similar analogue meter (and still keep the circuit simple).

Hobbyking make a nice little voltage/current/watt meter for 0-30V / 0-30A. Small, cheap and with peak hold.

$8.29 - HobbyKing Compact 30A Watt Meter and Power Analyzer

 

[Hrawk]

Hmm, I've decided before I box it up I'll add a few more features to the box.

Going to grab another LM2596 board for a dedicated 5v rail.

I will either butcher a USB-EGO charger or grab one of those small lipo charge circuits and add a front panel charger (screw the battery to the front panel) as well as a panel mount USB port for a pass through or charger.

18650 charger ?

I need to stop now.

 

[rolf]

usb charger port would be usefull for charging batteries ..but not sure if the 5 v rail is to high a volt for the charger board ??
my vaping port is a panel mount rca connector . which I use with a simple pass throuw .also use it with other things like a hot wire foam cutter ectr. the variable voltage board goas up to 10 amps. at that time got it from e bay. fused each rail with a 10 amp circuit breaker.

 

[Visus]

This site has some great prices and ol skol cool modules
free shipping

LM2596 DC-DC Step-down Adjustable Power Supply Module - Free Shipping

 

[Hrawk]

View attachment 311432usb charger port would be usefull for charging batteries ..but not sure if the 5 v rail is to high a volt for the charger board ??
View attachment 311432

Nah 5v is perfect. USB ports all put out +5V

Cool, someone else using a hot wire cutter I used a 20amp brushed speed controller for mine, bit of an overkill but somewhat necessary when shaping 600mm wings.

Hmmm, I suppose I could use that same ESC for a vape mod too, but who would want 240 watts.... Then again, a 240watt VV controller for under 10 bucks

 

[rolf]

ja my long foam cutter was to clumsy for small parts ...so just build this one to cut foam blanks for fiberglass mods .
the wire for this is a bit to heavy going to change it. suprising how little volts-amps it takes . also have a hook on top to easy to unhook and feed through to cut inside of templets

http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r512/rolfi6/DSC_0396.jpg

 

[rurwin]

For power measurement, you could always get a cross-needle meter. You'd have to design a new scale for it of course, and the cheapest way to get one might be from a spares-or-repairs SWR meter, although there are a few available as new components.

One needle would indicate volts and the other amps, on the curved scales. The point where the needles cross, would give the power, which you would read off on the red scale.

Almost all meters are milli-ammeters in reality, and these will be no different. So you'd have to design shunts for them to read the right ranges. That's a big resistor for volts, and a small resistor for current.