Top caps too tight on RDAs - Help!

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Kh888

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ECF Veteran
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Feb 11, 2014
562
1,977
Illinois
Hi all,

I have a few RDAs where the top caps are almost impossible to remove; Stillaire, Tugboat and Omega. The Stillaire and Tugboat re authentic and the Omega is a clone.

What are some possible solutions to remedy the top cap issue? I am guessing there is more than one way to solve this, but I am hoping for a simple, non-invasive solution.

Thanks!


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amurphy

Full Member
Jul 26, 2014
61
20
Austin, TX, USA
Hi all,

I have a few RDAs where the top caps are almost impossible to remove; Stillaire, Tugboat and Omega. The Stillaire and Tugboat re authentic and the Omega is a clone.

What are some possible solutions to remedy the top cap issue? I am guessing there is more than one way to solve this, but I am hoping for a simple, non-invasive solution.

Thanks!


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i have the same problem with my tugboat. it's just been stripping the o-ring. also looking for an easy fix. i'll try the juice around the ring.
 

amurphy

Full Member
Jul 26, 2014
61
20
Austin, TX, USA
My Origen V2 is nearly impossible to remove. So much so that I removed one of the two o-rings from the bottom and it's still tight. Juice, no juice.........doesn't matter.
kind of an unconventional fix, but i just tried to peel away the parts of the o-ring that were already coming off. maybe try some sandpaper or something? for me, it was just a "breaking in" period.
 

Vaya

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
*bump* I could use some advice on this issue, too...

I've gotten in the habit of wrapping paper towel around several of my RDAs' 510 threads and using pliers to rock the bottom cap back and forth, slowly freeing it from the top cap. My worry, however, lies in the great amount of force necessary to keep the 510 post in the grip of the pliers. I don't want to eventually ruin the threading.

Even with this method, which has been very successful for my authentic Patriot V1 & Tobeco Tugboat, my Infinite Enigma remains glued to itself. I've considered petroleum jelly....
 

p7willm

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ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 11, 2014
936
458
Lansdale, PA, USA
It depends on what the top is made of. If it is plated be careful the plating does not flake off.

Try to remove some of the material from the inside of the cap. Sandpaper or a dremel tool will do it. When you have removed some use use fine sandpaper to remove the scratches then finer sandpaper to remove those scratches then etc. you might get up into the 2000 range to get a smooth surface. If you have access to a machine shop there is a tool that will expand a tube, can't remember the name, but that should be able to make it a bit wider.

I would only do that with a clone. I would also cut the clone more slack. If it was an authentic I would be a little upset. One of the things they get the big bucks for is quality control. Try writing to the manufacturer to see what they say to do. They might say to send it to them so they can fix it.
 

nynvolt

Senior Member
Aug 2, 2014
216
102
Placentia, CA, USA
My tugboat is tight. Even with juiced O ring. I either drip through the tip or twist and pull to get it off. Same putting it on unless I have no reference to where the coils are located, then I have to line up the holes and push hard. It's a pita for sure and still leaks...but I love the thing.

Could try a smaller O ring that by stretching it to fit would make it thinner. Think I'll try that, doubt it'll cause it to leak any worse. Lol
 

Smann245

Super Member
Aug 16, 2014
531
352
USA
I recently got a Tobeco TOBH v2. Took it apart to inspect and clean, then reassembled. Sleeve would not install all the way on to the base and top cap was seemingly a little loose. Finally took it apart again and noticed one o-ring looked like it might be thicker than the other two. I say might be. The difference was practically a shadow of a shadow. Put the 'might be thicker' o-ring on the top cap and the two others on the base. Holy crap. Sleeve installs with perfect amount of resistance and seats perfectly and top cap is slightly tighter and perfect now too. An almost microscopic difference in o-ring thickness can make all the difference in the world. Check them closely guys. Good luck.
 
1) Try finding replacement O-rings at an auto supply store. Regular rubber will work fine, but also ask if they have nitrile rings (for AC systems, they will be a light minty green) if you're worried about contaminants.

2) Take the original O-ring out and rub the outer edge with a scotch-brite pad, which will remove the material in very small increments, leaving the surface smoother than sandpaper. Be sure to clean it well before using.

3) Take very fine (600 range) sandpaper, fold it in half, and run the edge inside the groove the O-ring sits in. Go slowly and test fit often. Be sure to clean well before use.

4) Use a dremel with a buffing tip and polishing compound on the inside of the cap, where the O-ring sits. Work slowly and test fit often. Clean well before use. Note: this is a good way to eliminate leaks on devices that have good O-ring fit. Use very fine compound and very light pressure.

5) If you go "too far" with any of these, or have an O-ring that's just a little too loose, you can slice a thin sliver of teflon tape (the white stuff for sealing pipe threads), and wrap it inside the groove for the O-ring. I've found just two wraps can take a very loose O-ring to "just right".
 
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