Thermal compound?

[StrappedKaos]

Hello fellow vapors, so I have a question. I searched internet and ecf but many answers looking for someone that has done this... Use thermal paste instead of noalox, I have lots of thermal compound from building comparison and fixing amps. I have heard much debate on subject so reason I am considering, keeps threads clean- fill in microscopic holes in thread connection 510 to adapter to tank- help with load drop due to connection- conductivity and so on. I want to use die electric but seams to be less viscous and thermal will help secure the adapter but not always good thing. I know if it has good conductivity then chance of causing an arc/short but if only applied to threads maybe viable. The more I read most just say use noalox but not liking idea if thermal does better at thread,oxidation and conductivity. I have very expensive lubromoly antiseze and its copper based mos2 I could use also. Ordered m16 with another adapter so wanna do this when I do vamo too. Think this should be everything Thanks all, strapped

 

[bzmotoninja83]

As long as it's not anywhere where joose might contact it, I'd go for it. I personally used a little petroleum jelly on threads and on the switch of my kts. Helped with the hot switch I had. I don't think using TC over something else would make that much of a diff. YMMV

Sent from the 804

 

[bacc.vap]

Yeh, a very thin coat of vaseline is all you need for mod threads, Noalox is not really designed for this application, it does lube the threads, but also stiffens up over time. I don't think adapters really need any help, at least imo they don't.

 

[scalewiz]

That might not be such a bad idea. I use Arctic Silver thermal compound when attaching heatsinks; the silver in the compound may help conductivity compared to normal compound????? Anyone who can measure conductivity in a mod may test this???????

 

[BigBen2k]

That might not be such a bad idea. I use Arctic Silver thermal compound when attaching heatsinks; the silver in the compound may help conductivity compared to normal compound????? Anyone who can measure conductivity in a mod may test this???????

No, it doesn't. There are (industrial) compounds specifically for that though. A dielectric (the opposite of conductive) is used to prevent contact wear, which causes inconsistent connections.

I'd stick to simpler products that are food or medical grade. Remember that you'll be breathing it. Outgassing of compounds can go on for months, from industrial products.

 

[bzmotoninja83]

I'll stick to my uber thin coat of petroleum jelly. Wiped down at that. Other than that, olive oil or ky jelly lol.

Sent from the 804

 

[WarHawk-AVG]

Um...might not be good to "breath" thermal compound

Here is the MSDS on Artic Silver
http://www.arcticsilver.com/PDF/thermcom/AS5_MSDS_3.pdf

It's designed to allow better cooling on the microscopic differences between a processor and the heatsink...there really isn't a need to put it on your threads between the 510 device and the power/battery pack....the metal on metal contact is enough to allow current flow to heat the coil...

 

[Ryedan]

there really isn't a need to put it on your threads between the 510 device and the power/battery pack....the metal on metal contact is enough to allow current flow to heat the coil...

But any metal on metal contact can deteriorate due to oxidation. That's why I put a small amount of Noalox on my mod's threads and contacts.

 

[Crash Moses]

"Originally Posted by scalewiz"

That might not be such a bad idea. I use Arctic Silver thermal compound when attaching heatsinks; the silver in the compound may help conductivity compared to normal compound????? Anyone who can measure conductivity in a mod may test this???????

No, it doesn't. There are (industrial) compounds specifically for that though. A dielectric (the opposite of conductive) is used to prevent contact wear, which causes inconsistent connections.

I'd stick to simpler products that are food or medical grade. Remember that you'll be breathing it. Outgassing of compounds can go on for months, from industrial products.

I can confirm this. I tried Arctic Silver and it did nothing to help with voltage drop (and it is a royal pain to clean off the threads). Noalox will help prevent oxidation but I saw no measurable improvement in conductivity.

The biggest factor, I believe, is the internal resistance of your battery. My vaping buddy and I did some comparisons between Efest, AW, and MNKE (I don't remember the brand of the MNKE batteries....possibly Panasonic) 18650s. The Efest batteries gave us a drop of around .5 - .6 volts. The AWs were around .4 and the MNKE were around .2 - .3 volts. The mods we used were a Reo Grand, the Magneto, a Zenesis DX-650, and a Sigelei #19. We tested with the same atomizer and all batteries showed the same drop regardless of the mod they were in.

 

[StrappedKaos]

Sounds right guys thanks, all seemed good until idea of breathing it in becomes an issue.... P jelly it is or food grade lithium grease maybe to try. Again thanks everyone, strapped

 

[volume control]

Thermal paste is typically not very conductive, its designed to transfer heat not electricity. You want noalox, or conductive paste

 

[fourtytwo]

Noalox is a lot cheaper.
Also, Arctic Silver is not a lub. It firms up with age.

 

[Ryedan]

I can confirm this. I tried Arctic Silver and it did nothing to help with voltage drop (and it is a royal pain to clean off the threads). Noalox will help prevent oxidation but I saw no measurable improvement in conductivity.

The biggest factor, I believe, is the internal resistance of your battery. My vaping buddy and I did some comparisons between Efest, AW, and MNKE (I don't remember the brand of the MNKE batteries....possibly Panasonic) 18650s. The Efest batteries gave us a drop of around .5 - .6 volts. The AWs were around .4 and the MNKE were around .2 - .3 volts. The mods we used were a Reo Grand, the Magneto, a Zenesis DX-650, and a Sigelei #19. We tested with the same atomizer and all batteries showed the same drop regardless of the mod they were in.

I've never been able to find much information on MNKE batteries but I thought MNKE was a brand, or manufacturer. Why makes you say they might be Panasonic?

 

[BigBen2k]

But any metal on metal contact can deteriorate due to oxidation. That's why I put a small amount of Noalox on my mod's threads and contacts.

More precisely:
metal-on-metal contact can deteriorate due to Mechanical Wear.

metal-on-a-different-metal contact can deteriorate due to (galvanic) corrosion.

I use Halo's Triton system;everything is chromed (hard metal), and the center post has just enough play for a perfect snug fit. Flawless so far, but I do have to wipe off excess condensation, occasionally.

 

[SissySpike]

Ive never put any lube on my delivery device connections. It might be an issue with cheaper devices but if I pay 150+ for something if the threading is not perfect Im sending it back!

 

[Crash Moses]

I've never been able to find much information on MNKE batteries but I thought MNKE was a brand, or manufacturer. Why makes you say they might be Panasonic?

It was my understanding that MNKE was the type of battery (like IMR). I stand corrected.

 

[SissySpike]

MNKE batteries are IMR they have a higher amp limit than most AW1600 mAh have a 18 amp limit if I remember correctly MNKE bats have a 20 amp limit and Sony makes a 30 amp limit battery.

 

[rolygate]

A thread paste is mostly needed in aluminum devices, stainless should not need it. This is because ali is a trash metal, it is about as low on the metal scale of nobility as you can get. Only zinc degrades faster.

Ali normally needs to be hard anodized or it is too soft for human handling or electrical applications. If you touch an ali ladder that is raw untreated ali, even though it looks clean and bright, your hands will come off black with dirt. If an electrical current passes through untreated threads, where there is the minutest amount of moisture in the atmosphere (such as in an APV body) then aluminum oxides are produced, which look like black dirt, and are non-conductive. As the body is the negative path in most simple APVs, all the current passes through the main body threads, which gradually get blocked by the oxides.

Ali is the cheapest metal to make a device from, which is why it's used. If the device is made properly, then after the threads are cut it should be hard anodized. But, this is unlikely as ali is only used in the first place as it is so cheap. So, you need an anti-oxidation, conductive, non-stiffening paste to protect the threads of an ali electrical device: Noalox is good. It is basically a cream with zinc particles in as that is the only metal less noble than ali. The zinc takes the hit, not the ali body.

 

[emus]

I'm using GB ox-gard anti oxidation paste on a switch contact that I made of Lead based solder.
The clean dry solder switch oxidized quickly.
Before using ox-gard, I had to clean the visible oxidation from my lead switch contact daily.
I've been using the ox-gard a week or so and the lead solder switch is hitting hard and hasn't developed any visible oxidation.

 

[SuperLamer]

DeOxit gold is a nonconductive, very thin, brush on protectant/anti oxidant I use on my clone mod. It is very effective on all surfaces and no danger of bridging those thin delrin insulation areas. Works fine on treads and wipes right off.