Nichrome Question

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theCannibalGirl

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I'm pretty new to rebuilding and normally use kanthal wire. I was looking for more twisted clapton wire at some local shops and they recommended Nichrome. I bought a few feet to try and need to know if I need to do anything different? I normally do spaced builds with the clapton wire.

I use a limitless plus and vaporflask stout. I build around .18 and vape between 55 and 65 watts.

Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

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Carl2

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I like the temp mod and have been working with nichrome or nickel wire. For a plain coil I'd probably use 30 awg wire maybe 28. I don't do any spacing, a nice tight coil. I use the resistance of the atomizer which is .22 ohms for a single coil double that for a dual coil. If the spring of the wire is a problem you can heat it until it turns red and keep tension on the wire as you wind.
"I use a limitless plus and vaporflask stout. I build around .18 and vape between 55 and 65 watts. "
If your using watts the resistance doesn't matter, your wattage is so high. Sugar burns at 350F, turns to carmel then carbon. I wouldn't even try to inhale at those temps. Good luck though
 
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DingerCPA

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I just got my first nichrome wire today and built up a duallie on my Velocity. The one thing is that nichrome is lower resistance for the same length/guage of kanthal (i.e. you'd need more wraps of nichrome to get the same resistance of kanthal.) Steam-engine can help you navigate through that math.
 
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Taowulf

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If your using watts the resistance doesn't matter, your wattage is so high. Sugar burns at 350F, turns to carmel then carbon. I wouldn't even try to inhale at those temps. Good luck though

I am sorry, but you do not know what you are talking about. It is clearly outside of your experience.

Resistance ALWAYS matters. Ohm's law still applies, too little wattage to a low resistance coil will result in little to no vapor. Too much will lead to burnt juice, just like a higher resistance. And the burning point of sugar is meaningless to the entire conversation.

I'm pretty new to rebuilding and normally use kanthal wire. I was looking for more twisted clapton wire at some local shops and they recommended Nichrome. I bought a few feet to try and need to know if I need to do anything different? I normally do spaced builds with the clapton wire.

I use a limitless plus and vaporflask stout. I build around .18 and vape between 55 and 65 watts.

Any tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Yes, Nichrome has a lower resistance than Kanthal, and it is softer as well. The real advantage to Nichrome is it heats faster than Kanthal, which is very nice when making Clapton coils. Same for Stainless Steel, but the resistance is even lower. If coil sizes on your Claptons become too large for the resistance of the coil you want, you can try moving to a smaller gauge wire for the wrap, but smaller gauges can be more difficult to work with.

P.S. Steamengine will always and forever be your friend.
 

theCannibalGirl

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Feb 12, 2014
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I am sorry, but you do not know what you are talking about. It is clearly outside of your experience.

Resistance ALWAYS matters. Ohm's law still applies, too little wattage to a low resistance coil will result in little to no vapor. Too much will lead to burnt juice, just like a higher resistance. And the burning point of sugar is meaningless to the entire conversation.



Yes, Nichrome has a lower resistance than Kanthal, and it is softer as well. The real advantage to Nichrome is it heats faster than Kanthal, which is very nice when making Clapton coils. Same for Stainless Steel, but the resistance is even lower. If coil sizes on your Claptons become too large for the resistance of the coil you want, you can try moving to a smaller gauge wire for the wrap, but smaller gauges can be more difficult to work with.

P.S. Steamengine will always and forever be your friend.
Thank you so much for your help. I will have to try it tonight.

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Taowulf

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Thank you so much for your help. I will have to try it tonight.

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If you are building to less than .2Ω already, this should probably be an easy transition for you. Might want to drop wattage a little bit at first just to make sure you don't overdo it. :)
 

theCannibalGirl

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If you are building to less than .2Ω already, this should probably be an easy transition for you. Might want to drop wattage a little bit at first just to make sure you don't overdo it. :)
I will definitely do that. This is 22g wire, nothing fancy. I've also considered trying SS, but it looks like there is a lot more to it and I've never used the TC on my device.

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Taowulf

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I will definitely do that. This is 22g wire, nothing fancy. I've also considered trying SS, but it looks like there is a lot more to it and I've never used the TC on my device.

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The nice thing about going to Ni80 or SS is that you can get similar results with thinner wire. It will also be much easier to wrap than Kanthal, as Kanthal is pretty stiff. SS 316 is a piece of cake to build with, here is a pic of the dual 26/42 claptons I tossed into the crappy atty that came with my Dripbox 160. And no, I don't use them in TC, I use them on a mech device. That is the great thing about SS, it does TC and Wattage easily. Just at a lower resistance for the same gauge wire.

SlAFH6ul.jpg
 

theCannibalGirl

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Feb 12, 2014
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Sevierville, TN
The nice thing about going to Ni80 or SS is that you can get similar results with thinner wire. It will also be much easier to wrap than Kanthal, as Kanthal is pretty stiff. SS 316 is a piece of cake to build with, here is a pic of the dual 26/42 claptons I tossed into the crappy atty that came with my Dripbox 160. And no, I don't use them in TC, I use them on a mech device. That is the great thing about SS, it does TC and Wattage easily. Just at a lower resistance for the same gauge wire.

SlAFH6ul.jpg
I've read you aren't supposed to dry burn SS? How do you check for hot spots and such?

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Taowulf

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I've read you aren't supposed to dry burn SS? How do you check for hot spots and such?

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"They" say lots of things.

Simple. I dry burn it. :D

Some people think dry burning means you need to try to turn the coil into a flashlight. This is not the case. You are only going to usually see hot spots as it starts to glow anyway, so that is the best time to see them so they can be worked out. As the coil heats up more, the hot spots usually disappear and will not show up until the coil has cooled quite a bit. I pulse, look for the hot spots, then let off while I tweeze or wiggle the coil and then let it cool a little more before I pulse again.
 

theCannibalGirl

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Feb 12, 2014
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Sevierville, TN
"They" say lots of things.

Simple. I dry burn it. :D

Some people think dry burning means you need to try to turn the coil into a flashlight. This is not the case. You are only going to usually see hot spots as it starts to glow anyway, so that is the best time to see them so they can be worked out. As the coil heats up more, the hot spots usually disappear and will not show up until the coil has cooled quite a bit. I pulse, look for the hot spots, then let off while I tweeze or wiggle the coil and then let it cool a little more before I pulse again.
Thank you so much for the help! I've found SS to be cheaper and I hear the flavor is fantastic.

Going to order some today. If you have suggestions on where to buy wire... I've heard of lightning vape and may try them.

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Taowulf

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Thank you so much for the help! I've found SS to be cheaper and I hear the flavor is fantastic.

Going to order some today. If you have suggestions on where to buy wire... I've heard of lightning vape and may try them.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

You might have to jump through some age verification hoops with LV now. I have bought from LV in the past and they are fine, but I order all my wire from KBee Vapes on Ebay now. They are located in Florida, and I am Oregon, but I still get my shipments super fast. If I order on a Friday, I will have my stuff no later than Tuesday. But usually on Monday.

kbee_wire_superstore on Ebay
 
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