Could someone explain to me a little about the difference in usage between ni80 and ni?200 I put the? In there because I'm not even sure if it's not a completely different metal. I was looking at a review for something that I just bought and it's an older mod by asmodeus the colossal and and it's temperature control suite mentions ni200 as one of the options it also has TCR and the other one similar to that. I guess what I'm wondering is is ni80 something I can use with it or do I need to find whatever the 200 thing is? I imagine it has to do with the percentage of nickel that's in it but there's no way to have 200% of something so I guess I'm just all around confused and could use a little info. Thx!
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Ni200 is an alloy that allows temp control feature of a mod to be implemented. This is because it has a significant increase in resistance as it heats, which can be measured and power modulated to maintain the temperature selected. Ni80 is a different alloy. It has very little change in resistance with heating, so can only be used in wattage mode on virtually all mods.
Ni200 should not be used in wattage mode because without regulation of the power by the mod, the wire can “overheat” and potentially release toxic metal particulates into the vapor. That’s why it’s important to differentiate the two alloys and use them in the correct mode of function.
Ni200 should not be used in wattage mode because without regulation of the power by the mod, the wire can “overheat” and potentially release toxic metal particulates into the vapor. That’s why it’s important to differentiate the two alloys and use them in the correct mode of function.
And this is why a forum like this is so vitally important and why any new Vapor who's not just using simple all-in-one devices should really really be involved in a forum of some sort. You can Google things but you're not going to get an answer that makes sense directly to what you're asking. I can get a metallurgists impression of the difference however that's not in relationship to what I'm using it for thank you thank you very much for the clarification. I'm so glad I asked
Titanium is also like ni200 in that it must be used with temperature control right? And if that is true
Between titanium and ni200 which one would you consider to be easier to work with/ better for somebody who's fairly new to building and really wants to experience real temperature control?
And stainless steel can be used in either but doesn't have as much of a variation in resistance as ni200 and titanium....i think. am I getting this correctly?
Thanks
At this point, and for the vast majority of users, I'd say YES. On a finer point, you notice he actually said 'should' which is not 'must'.
I find Ti01 easier to work with, and higher resistances.
Yeah you're getting it. Just change the word 'variation' to 'rise'.
I agree with what's been said by @Eskie and @Wayneo about TC coil materials and add the 2 biggest reasons I don't use nickel wire, and the reason I don't use Ti.
1) Nickel in a fairly pure form like Ni200 (typically 98% or higher nickel) is very malleable, to the point it is difficult to work with. Just trying to mount the coil in an atty is difficult without distortion of the coil and can be very difficult to wick for the same reason. Yes, you can use a thicker gauge like 24 which helps, but then you'll wind up getting a very low ohm build due to lack of space in the atty for enough wraps to get a higher cold resistance. You can use many more wraps and get a higher resistance if you use a 28~32 gauge wire, thinner wire also has more resistance per foot, but then the coil deforms trying to get the coil installed and a decent amount of wick. Not worth it to me, just too fiddly. The OG TC mod from Evolv could only use nickel and it was a pain to work with.
2) Nickel is an allergen to a surprisingly large number of people. The CDC reports 10~20% of people. In fact, in 2009 nickle was awarded allergen of the year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. Yeah they do this every year since 2000 and pick the biggest allergen of the year, why I don't know, but it's a thing. So if you're allergic, like you get a little irritation using a friends nickle plated bathroom faucet (that would be lower % of nickel) then think how it would be to get an allergic reaction in the mouth, throat, and lungs. As an aside, the American Contact Dermatitis Society awarded the 2018 allergen of the year distinction to Propylene Glycol (PG).
For Ti, it works well for TC, but doesn't seem any better for me as a TC material than SS and since I switch between TC and wattage modes, mostly TC, I just choose SS as my material of choice. But if you are TC only I think Ti would work well for you.
1) Nickel in a fairly pure form like Ni200 (typically 98% or higher nickel) is very malleable, to the point it is difficult to work with. Just trying to mount the coil in an atty is difficult without distortion of the coil and can be very difficult to wick for the same reason. Yes, you can use a thicker gauge like 24 which helps, but then you'll wind up getting a very low ohm build due to lack of space in the atty for enough wraps to get a higher cold resistance. You can use many more wraps and get a higher resistance if you use a 28~32 gauge wire, thinner wire also has more resistance per foot, but then the coil deforms trying to get the coil installed and a decent amount of wick. Not worth it to me, just too fiddly. The OG TC mod from Evolv could only use nickel and it was a pain to work with.
2) Nickel is an allergen to a surprisingly large number of people. The CDC reports 10~20% of people. In fact, in 2009 nickle was awarded allergen of the year by the American Contact Dermatitis Society. Yeah they do this every year since 2000 and pick the biggest allergen of the year, why I don't know, but it's a thing. So if you're allergic, like you get a little irritation using a friends nickle plated bathroom faucet (that would be lower % of nickel) then think how it would be to get an allergic reaction in the mouth, throat, and lungs. As an aside, the American Contact Dermatitis Society awarded the 2018 allergen of the year distinction to Propylene Glycol (PG).
For Ti, it works well for TC, but doesn't seem any better for me as a TC material than SS and since I switch between TC and wattage modes, mostly TC, I just choose SS as my material of choice. But if you are TC only I think Ti would work well for you.
That's actually very interesting. Very curious what will be the one for 2019.
Titanium is also like ni200 in that it must be used with temperature control right? And if that is true
Between titanium and ni200 which one would you consider to be easier to work with/ better for somebody who's fairly new to building and really wants to experience real temperature control?
And stainless steel can be used in either but doesn't have as much of a variation in resistance as ni200 and titanium....i think. am I getting this correctly?
Thanks
Stainless steel (SS) is probably the most popular TC wire in use at the moment. One thing you do need to know for success with TC is that, much like the different forms of nickel, there are almost infinite varieties of stainless steel. Many of them can be used with TC, but they all have different TCR settings. Your mod's SS setting is valid only for SS316L. You can also use SS316 (no L), SS317L, SS304, SS430 and probably a number of others as well, but you'd need to use a custom TCR setting.
Also you cannot dry burn TI. Honestly don't remember why but it's the reason I steer clear of it.
My understanding is that Ti can be dry burned if you are extremely careful not to let the coil get hot enough to create Titanium Dioxide, which is very difficult not to do and is harmful to the respiratory system. If you have to dry burn, for whatever reason, I think it would be best to use a small torch to burn off contaminants instead of using a mod to heat the coil hot enough to burn contaminants off. But even that would have to be done slowly and carefully and you would likely not know how successful you were at not creating Ti Dioxide contamination.
This also raises the issue of dry hits creating the same problem. Hopefully the device being used would stop the heat before this becomes and issue, but anyone who has used multiple different TC mods knows there are only a few chips with TC good enough to be that accurate. I know devices like Picos and Topsides don't do well in that regard and if you run the wick dry it will burn the wick making Ti a dangerous choice if you don't keep a very close eye on wick saturation and fluid levels.
I would not dry burn Ti at all and if the coil needed cleaning just use Everclear and a soft brush, but overall it would be easier and less effort to just bang out a new coil.
I just stay away from Ti because I don't want to work that hard at vaping, not that Ti is inherently bad when used correctly. Guess I'm just a lazy vaper, because other than the Ti Dioxide issue Ti is a very good metal for temp control.
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