The fluke DMM is considered one of the best in the industry, but measuring atomizers its jumping probably inaccurate what causes this. Thos cheap china res meters I don't trust because the aren't calibrated.
measuring resistance with a fluke
- Thread starter regal55
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
I use a good multimeter, too. I do check the resistance before putting the coil on the atty using alligator clips. When ever the ohms seem to jump, it is usually because the connection to the wire is loose. I then check the resistance after the coil is installed using the pointed probes on the 510 using a lot of pressure. Jumping resistance, for me, usually means bad connection of meter or the atty screws are to loose.
When I am in doubt, I start the build over.
When I am in doubt, I start the build over.
I have used multimeters, Fluke and others, and found that my little black box is actually more accurate since it measures to two decimal places. In my test, the Fluke read 1.7-ohms and the cheap 510 box read 1.63-ohms. Seems about right to me and I now have complete confidence in the black box.
I guess my point is that once you establish the accuracy of the black box using a meter like the Fluke, there is really no reason not to trust it and it's much easier to use.
I guess my point is that once you establish the accuracy of the black box using a meter like the Fluke, there is really no reason not to trust it and it's much easier to use.
I was having the same problem with my meters, both the fluke and snap-on. I don't know why it does this, works fine on everything else. What I ended up doing was to take a cheap set of leads I had laying around, and a female 510 connector.... cut the leads, stripped them, and soldered them into the 510, works perfectly now. I ended up doing a male 510 also to test voltage, but... was kind of a waste as the probes are easier for voltage.
Once you compare the 510 ohm meter to a fluke and see that it it's accurate u can trust it
I've a fluke 19 that measure 1.2 ohm premade 3 ohm. Shorting the probe give me 0.2...
I've a few multimeter with me all give different readings. I concluded that multimeter are not made for measuring milli ohm, as their lowest range is 0-400ohm or 0-300ohm.
Most Fluke multimeters and scopemeters allow you to take the resistance of the test lead/probeset into account by shorting the probe tips together and hitting the "Relative" button. The meter now reads zero and is calibrated against the test leads. Lower end models lack this feature. Also, there is a lot to be said for quality test leads and probes. A $300 meter with a $10 set of probes gets you $10 accuracy.
Last edited:
It's also a much more stable measurement because the measurement is taken while exactly simulating how the atty will be mounted during use. I've had no issues with my $20 little black ohm box, it's more accurate than test leads on a DMM unless you work up some sort of rig to use it with. I'd rather just trust my box since I already confirmed the accuracy of it.
I tend to agree with this. I'm sure a $200 Fluke meter is fine for most tasks when working in general electronics or an automotive application but as great a reputation as they have, I still think the black boxes are better suited to THIS application, which is reading less than 1-ohm on an atomizer. So, for me, it's the $15 meter all day with confidence.
I use a Fluke 88 meter. Even knowing how accurate a fluke meter can be, you also have to consider connection and calibration issues. If you use the needle test leads, you can get a "jumpy" reading due to the changing surface area of the connection. Think about it for a second, you are putting a cylindrical object (the needle test lead) against another cylindrical object (wire), which most will test at almost a perpendicular angle. There is no way you're getting a good connection.
Grab a set of alligator clips to increase the connection surface area. Also, make sure that your not clipping onto a positive lead that's saturated in juice. That can also affect the measurement; wipe it off.
Lastly, I recommend using a devise (meter) that has the ability to "zero out" when connecting the leads together. This might sound pointless, but if your leads are 20 awg and 3' long, you won't have an accurate reading.
3' is 0.9144 meters for you Europeans
Grab a set of alligator clips to increase the connection surface area. Also, make sure that your not clipping onto a positive lead that's saturated in juice. That can also affect the measurement; wipe it off.
Lastly, I recommend using a devise (meter) that has the ability to "zero out" when connecting the leads together. This might sound pointless, but if your leads are 20 awg and 3' long, you won't have an accurate reading.
3' is 0.9144 meters for you Europeans
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
