LG HG2, and who is right?

[JokkeD86]

Fiest let me say i'm sorry for posting this, and please let me know how to delete this thread afterwards...

I'm so stupid with batteries, I really don't get it! #%&... I just wan't to know if my new setup is completely safe, that's all - I got a LG battery with this writing on the side:
LGDBHG21865
P068008201

i think it is called LG HG2 but nut sure.. My mod is a VTC mini and I use a Crown tank, always with the standard 0.5 ohm coils at about 50W.

Is it safe?
What's is my max wattage limit for me?

Guy at vapeshop told me that i'm fine using my cellphone charger with the VTC mini, but my friend says that's its not safe because of to many amps from the charger - who is right?

Before this, I had the VTC5 battery and this new one from LG should be better, according to the guy at my vape shop. But why? And is "better" more safe?

Thanks you battery experts out there and sorry again.

 

[Canadian_Vaper]

It's perfectly fine wattage/amps...

Just don't vape it while it's being charged via the mod (pass-through vaping).

 

[IMFire3605]

1) The LG HG2 compared to the Sony VTC5 they are about the same, HG2 (20amp CDR, 3000mah), VTC5 (20amp CDR, 2600mah), so the HG2 will have a little longer run time.
2) To understand the draw current the VTC Mini will ask of your battery use this formula
Watts/3.2v/0.9=Amps (Watts=Wattage Setting, 3.2v this is an average cutoff voltage a mod will use, lowest charge the mod will fire at all at, 0.9=Mod efficiency factor I use 90% (0.9), Amps=the maximum amps the mod will pull from the battery to reach your wattage setting. Example 60watts/3.2=18.75/0.9=20.8333amps. Read the specifications of your mod to get what the low battery cut off is or check your battery with a multi-meter to see where your mod shuts off at.
3) Charging. You can in a pinch or emergency use an android charger cable, I'd suggest reading the wall adapter for its amp or milli-amp output, no more than 1amp or 1000milli-amps. But I highly suggest A) Buy at least one more battery to swap out, maybe even 2, this will rotate batteries between usage and charging and resting to extend their lives, and B) get a dedicated external charger, even a Nitecore i2 2bay charger, the charger will condition your batteries properly, not overcharge them, and allow you to use your mod with one battery while the second is charging. Eventually the potential for you mod charger either not shutting off properly leading to overcharging a battery can be catostrophic, ie battery goes boom, or the mod charger board frying out entirely leaving you with no charged batteries.

 

[JokkeD86]

1) The LG HG2 compared to the Sony VTC5 they are about the same, HG2 (20amp CDR, 3000mah), VTC5 (20amp CDR, 2600mah), so the HG2 will have a little longer run time.
2) To understand the draw current the VTC Mini will ask of your battery use this formula
Watts/3.2v/0.9=Amps (Watts=Wattage Setting, 3.2v this is an average cutoff voltage a mod will use, lowest charge the mod will fire at all at, 0.9=Mod efficiency factor I use 90% (0.9), Amps=the maximum amps the mod will pull from the battery to reach your wattage setting. Example 60watts/3.2=18.75/0.9=20.8333amps. Read the specifications of your mod to get what the low battery cut off is or check your battery with a multi-meter to see where your mod shuts off at.
3) Charging. You can in a pinch or emergency use an android charger cable, I'd suggest reading the wall adapter for its amp or milli-amp output, no more than 1amp or 1000milli-amps. But I highly suggest A) Buy at least one more battery to swap out, maybe even 2, this will rotate batteries between usage and charging and resting to extend their lives, and B) get a dedicated external charger, even a Nitecore i2 2bay charger, the charger will condition your batteries properly, not overcharge them, and allow you to use your mod with one battery while the second is charging. Eventually the potential for you mod charger either not shutting off properly leading to overcharging a battery can be catostrophic, ie battery goes boom, or the mod charger board frying out entirely leaving you with no charged batteries.

right so.. I get a proper charger and stay below 60W and I'm all safe?

 

[Baditude]

As safe as you can be with the equipment you are using.

A regulated mod like you are using will be safer than a mechanical (unregulated) mod, because it has protection circuity built in. You still need to learn safe battery practices to be as safe as you can be. Read Baditude's blog "Battery Basics for Mods" listed below.

Although the Sony VTC5 and LG HG2 are both "safer chemistry" batteries, they could still vent hot toxic gas if they are pushed too hard by the user or are "hard shorted" in some way. There is no battery made that is totally "safe".

By the way, all the info that IMFire posted I agree with. He is one of our battery experts, and he has a great blog on batteries @IMFire3605. To learn more about batteries, Google "Mooch's Blog" and "Baditude's Blog".

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

... but my friend says that's its not safe because of to many amps from the charger - who is right?

The newer regulated mods (at least the better ones, not ego types) have the same type of circuitry as cell phones and tablets where they manage the power input, so you can plug in from a computer (0.5A), a cell phone(1A) charger or tablet's (2.1A), and I'd be amazed if there would be any issues at all... the device would simply pull the amount that it's built for.

I'd just recommend to go with a 1A max charger IF you plan to use while charging. (Most I've seen pull 1A standard)

But better, follow the advice and get a few extras batteries and a good charger.

 

[Dylan Binh]

As safe as you can be with the equipment you are using.

A regulated mod like you are using will be safer than a mechanical (unregulated) mod, because it has protection circuity built in. You still need to learn safe battery practices to be as safe as you can be. Read Baditude's blog "Battery Basics for Mods" listed below.

Although the Sony VTC5 and LG HG2 are both "safer chemistry" batteries, they could still vent hot toxic gas if they are pushed too hard by the user or are "hard shorted" in some way. There is no battery made that is totally "safe".

By the way, all the info that IMFire posted I agree with. He is one of our battery experts, and he has a great blog on batteries @IMFire3605. To learn more about batteries, Google "Mooch's Blog" and "Baditude's Blog".

Got you. I had many questions that need your help.
I starting using mech mod for these days. As financial state is not really good so I chose to use mech mod CLONE.
I understand the risk of using mech mod and the risk even higher when using clone one.
So I made research about safety clone mech mod using. And ppls said that if a clone can perform with drop vol <0,4v so I will be safe, more lower more better.
After I read your post here. Some things came in my mind:

1) High-quality high-drained battery these days we are using have the Voltage 3,7V (on the battery body wrote so) and the CDR is 20A or 25A
Is 3.7V the maximum voltage when the battery is fully charged?
If yes, lets do calculation with a clone mech drop vol 0,4V:
3,7-0,4=3,3V (fully charged)
So its mean even I fully charged a good battery but if I using it together with a CLONE mech mod, the range before it hit the cut-off voltage is only 0,1V right?

2) How much the drop vol for authentic Mech mod that ppls using?

3) How can I know during using that my battery reach the cut-off voltage (using Mech without chip and screen so can not see the current battery during use)?

4) When the battery totally drained out, what is the voltage of battery at this state?

5) With Mech mod, how much Watt is using (single battery, no chip, no screen), is it always fixed, or is it variety depend on the current voltage of the battery, as fomurla:
W=U.I=I^2 * R
W: Watt
U: Votage
R: Resistance of the coil
Which one is fixed when using Mech mod

After all, sorry for all of this kind of stup1d question.
I'm new and need to learn more.
I already read and understand the value of a battery through Mooch testing. But for the formula, calculation and safety using I still need many advices.
Thank you very much!

 

[speedy_r6]

Got you. I had many questions that need your help.
I starting using mech mod for these days. As financial state is not really good so I chose to use mech mod CLONE.
I understand the risk of using mech mod and the risk even higher when using clone one.
So I made research about safety clone mech mod using. And ppls said that if a clone can perform with drop vol <0,4v so I will be safe, more lower more better.
After I read your post here. Some things came in my mind:

1) High-quality high-drained battery these days we are using have the Voltage 3,7V (on the battery body wrote so) and the CDR is 20A or 25A
Is 3.7V the maximum voltage when the battery is fully charged?
If yes, lets do calculation with a clone mech drop vol 0,4V:
3,7-0,4=3,3V (fully charged)
So its mean even I fully charged a good battery but if I using it together with a CLONE mech mod, the range before it hit the cut-off voltage is only 0,1V right?

A fully charged battery is 4.2 volts. No one can really tell you how much voltage drop you will have with the mod you are using. It varies between mods.

2) How much the drop vol for authentic Mech mod that ppls using?

Again, no one can tell you. All mods are different.

3) How can I know during using that my battery reach the cut-off voltage (using Mech without chip and screen so can not see the current battery during use)?

You can't. You have to learn when your batteries are getting low by the fact that your vapor production is going down.

4) When the battery totally drained out, what is the voltage of battery at this state?

There is no correct answer for this. Manufacturers will test their batteries down to 2.5 volts, but this can be damaging to the battery. For most people, they try to stop using the battery before it gets below 3.5 volts. With a mech mod, if you leave the button pressed, it will run the battery until it is completely discharged(below 2.5v) and ruin the battery.

5) With Mech mod, how much Watt is using (single battery, no chip, no screen), is it always fixed, or is it variety depend on the current voltage of the battery, as fomurla:
W=U.I=I^2 * R
W: Watt
U: Votage
R: Resistance of the coil
Which one is fixed when using Mech mod

The wattage will all depend on the resistance of the coil. Not knowing what batteries you are using, we can't really tell you what the safe limit is. Personally, I wouldn't want to go much more than half of what the battery is rated if it is an authentic LG/Sony/Samsung battery. To figure out your amps, use 4.2/coil resistance to get the amps. As you use it, the voltage will go down and so will the amps. This also drives the wattage down.

After all, sorry for all of this kind of stup1d question.
I'm new and need to learn more.
I already read and understand the value of a battery through Mooch testing. But for the formula, calculation and safety using I still need many advices.
Thank you very much!

See red text in the quote.

 

[pappcam]

Your charger is 100% safe, period. There's really no danger at all anymore of using the built in charging of new regulated mods these days, especially single battery mods like the VTC Mini. For mods with 2 or more batteries an external charger is better but even that is mainly just so it chargers the batteries evenly and also much faster. About the only thing that can go wrong with using the USB port is you could wear out or break the port since these things are usually cheaply mass produced.

 

[Baditude]

High-quality high-drained battery these days we are using have the Voltage 3,7V (on the battery body wrote so) and the CDR is 20A or 25A
Is 3.7V the maximum voltage when the battery is fully charged?
If yes, lets do calculation with a clone mech drop vol 0,4V:
3,7-0,4=3,3V (fully charged)
So its mean even I fully charged a good battery but if I using it together with a CLONE mech mod, the range before it hit the cut-off voltage is only 0,1V right?

Maximum voltage of a fully charged battery is 4.2 volts. 3.7 volts is considered the "mean" voltage.

You can't assume that just because a mod is a clone that it will have more voltage drop than an authentic. Voltage drop is in most cases is so insignificant that you don't need to factor this when vaping, in my opinion.

How much the drop vol for authentic Mech mod that ppls using?

So minimal that you shouldn't be concerned about it.

How can I know during using that my battery reach the cut-off voltage (using Mech without chip and screen so can not see the current battery during use)?

You will either have to remove your atomizer and attach a 510 voltage tester, or remove the battery and measure the voltage with a digital multimeter. Once you gain some experience vaping with a mechanical, you'll be able to "sense" when the battery voltage has fallen enough to require the battery to be re-charged when the vaping performance falls to a certain level.

When the battery totally drained out, what is the voltage of battery at this state?

A regulated mod will generally stop performing when the battery reaches about 3.4 volts. In a mech, you don't have a processor monitoring the battery voltage, so theoretically you could drain the battery lower than 2.5 volts, which in most cases could ruin the battery.

With Mech mod, how much Watt is using (single battery, no chip, no screen), is it always fixed, or is it variety depend on the current voltage of the battery, as fomurla:
W=U.I=I^2 * R
W: Watt
U: Votage
R: Resistance of the coil
Which one is fixed when using Mech mod

After all, sorry for all of this kind of stup1d question.
I'm new and need to learn

There are no stupid questions when safety is of concern.

Ohms Law has four components: Resistance, current (amps), voltage, and power (watts). For any two known components, you can use an Ohm's Law calculator to find the other two.
.

With coil rebuilding, the two known factors are the coil resistance and the voltage of a fully charged battery. You know the coil's resistance by measuring it on an ohm reader, and you already know your charged battery is 4.2 volts. You should also be aware of the amp limit (continuous discharge rate) of your battery. Use the calculator to find the current draw (current) of the coil, to make sure it doesn't pull more current than the battery is rated for (amp limit). Google "Baditude's Blogs" and read Explain It to the Noob: Ohm's Law Calculator and also A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod.

 

[Dylan Binh]

Maximum voltage of a fully charged battery is 4.2 volts. 3.7 volts is considered the "mean" voltage.

You can't assume that just because a mod is a clone that it will have more voltage drop than an authentic. Voltage drop is in most cases is so insignificant that you don't need to factor this when vaping, in my opinion.

So minimal that you shouldn't be concerned about it.

You will either have to remove your atomizer and attach a 510 voltage tester, or remove the battery and measure the voltage with a digital multimeter. Once you gain some experience vaping with a mechanical, you'll be able to "sense" when the battery voltage has fallen enough to require the battery to be re-charged when the vaping performance falls to a certain level.

A regulated mod will generally stop performing when the battery reaches about 3.4 volts. In a mech, you don't have a processor monitoring the battery voltage, so theoretically you could drain the battery lower than 2.5 volts, which in most cases could ruin the battery.

There are no stupid questions when safety is of concern.

Ohms Law has four components: Resistance, current (amps), voltage, and power (watts). Any two known components, you can use an Ohm's Law calculator to find the other two.
.

With coil rebuilding, the two known factors are the coil resistance and the voltage of a fully charged battery. You know the coil's resistance by measuring it on an ohm reader, and you already know your charged battery is 4.2 volts. You should also be aware of the amp limit (continuous discharge rate) of your battery. Use the calculator to find the current draw (current) of the coil, to make sure it doesn't pull more current than the battery is rated for (amp limit). Google "Baditude's Blogs" and read Explain It to the Noob: Ohm's Law Calculator and also A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod.

Big thanks for lightening me.
*thumb up*

 

[rice721]

Fiest let me say i'm sorry for posting this, and please let me know how to delete this thread afterwards...

I'm so stupid with batteries, I really don't get it! #%&... I just wan't to know if my new setup is completely safe, that's all - I got a LG battery with this writing on the side:
LGDBHG21865
P068008201

i think it is called LG HG2 but nut sure.. My mod is a VTC mini and I use a Crown tank, always with the standard 0.5 ohm coils at about 50W.

Is it safe?
What's is my max wattage limit for me?

Guy at vapeshop told me that i'm fine using my cellphone charger with the VTC mini, but my friend says that's its not safe because of to many amps from the charger - who is right?

Before this, I had the VTC5 battery and this new one from LG should be better, according to the guy at my vape shop. But why? And is "better" more safe?

Thanks you battery experts out there and sorry again.

LG HG2 - 20amp CDR 3000mah
Sony VTC5 - 20amp CDR 2600mah

LG HG2 has 400mah more capacity than the Sony VTC5, so may last a tad longer.

You're safe with either batteries. With any 20Amp CDR, my safety limit is 60W per battery.

Its frowned upon to charge your batteries using the on board charging USB (ie: charge battery in mod) but if you really choose to do it, it should be fine. Just keep an eye on it while its charging and don't leave it unattended.

As for the charger, a cell phone charging block and mini-usb cable would work. But I recommend getting an independent charger. Xtar, Nitecore are the ones I have.

 

[pappcam]

LG HG2 - 20amp CDR 3000mah
Sony VTC5 - 20amp CDR 2600mah

LG HG2 has 400mah more capacity than the Sony VTC5, so may last a tad longer.

You're safe with either batteries. With any 20Amp CDR, my safety limit is 60W per battery.

Its frowned upon to charge your batteries using the on board charging USB (ie: charge battery in mod) but if you really choose to do it, it should be fine. Just keep an eye on it while its charging and don't leave it unattended.

As for the charger, a cell phone charging block and mini-usb cable would work. But I recommend getting an independent charger. Xtar, Nitecore are the ones I have.

I really need some proof that this is dangerous on newer single battery mods. This stuff is repeated here and I have no idea why. Mods with built in batteries have no other option but to charge through USB. Why is everyone so scared of charging other mods the same way?

I think it's only "frowned upon" by people because it's constantly repeated here.

 

[IMFire3605]

I really need some proof that this is dangerous on newer single battery mods. This stuff is repeated here and I have no idea why. Mods with built in batteries have no other option but to charge through USB. Why is everyone so scared of charging other mods the same way?

I think it's only "frowned upon" by people because it's constantly repeated here.

Do a search, but yes it is generally advised to use an external charger to 18xxx series batteries. Pioneer4U, makers of the IPV series have regularly had problems with their onboard chargers, examples the early IPV3's and IPV4's just to give examples, and they were major safety issues with those two charging boards/ports. If the mod has an internal LiPo /w a charge port for it, that is one thing, they have to design them properly, yet even still, go back about 3 years ago, see how many Ego batteries went boom due to not using proper chargers and charger controllers going wacko, one instance I remember with those, "Infant" was in the blow back area of one that lit up in a car charger. An external battery charger also allows the user to monitor the batteries better than a blinking LED on a screen that can burn out on a mod, there just to many variables to cover that can go wrong. I tell people on a tight budget, invest in a charger on their next paycheck, but monitor their mod while charging and don't use it while charging either, way to much current being requested, and only use on board chargers when in a pinch like at work and the mod gives up, etc.

Now I can't from my perspective, see why someone would question something as simple as someone telling another to get a charger asap when it is safety we preach, I picked up all I know from other veterans here, it's not because we want others to spend more money for no reason, I hope you can understand that, an extra 10 or more dollars spent on safety, in the long run is less in insurance and medical expenses at the end

 

[daviedog]

I've been charging my batteries with an Opus charger for years, at 2 amps. No danger.
The worst thing you can do is run you cells down to 3.2 volts. Recharge at 3.6.
You batteries will live longer & increased current draw headspace.
Go to the.Battery University for the Real skinny on care & feeding of lithion cells.
Referred to me by Baditude himself. Thanx man..

 

[Baditude]

I really need some proof that this is dangerous on newer single battery mods. This stuff is repeated here and I have no idea why. Mods with built in batteries have no other option but to charge through USB. Why is everyone so scared of charging other mods the same way?

I think it's only "frowned upon" by people because it's constantly repeated here.

It's frowned upon by the long term vets on this site because over the years we have seen more reported issues with fires from mods with onboard charging units than we do with box chargers.

Onboard charging units may appeal to someone who is looking for convenience or looking to save $20 by not having to buy a separate box charger. However, as IMFire stated, some manufacturers appeared to have "cut some corners" by putting in inferior charging boards. In the end, how important is that "saved $20" if your onboard charger is defective and results in thousands of dollars in fire damage, possibly endangering the lives of those you love?

Myself, I'd rather pick and choose the charger I wish to use, rather than depend upon a manufacturer's choice of an onboard charger. I don't want manufacturer production costs to be a factor in my safety. I'm willing to sacrifice some convenience for at least the perception of greater peace of mind for better safety and faster performance of a box charger.

Box chargers offer faster charging than onboard chargers, and also offer a variety of charging options while onboard chargers do not.

Everyone is free to choose the level of safety they wish to practice. I don't get any paybacks from anyone in recommending a box charger, I do so because I honestly believe a box charger is safer and performs better than an onboard charger.

 

[Forkeh]

All solid advice. I would just like to add that until you get a feel for the wattage drop when the battery needs charged, you can always test your batteries periodically with a multimeter. They're dirt cheap and not especially big.

In fact, a multimeter is a good tool to have around in general. That way you can test your batteries if you ever suspect one might be overcharged, or too drained to be used/charged safely. You can also use it as a backup for atty testing, if for some reason your main meter conks out on you, or is giving suspicious readings.

 

[daviedog]

All solid advice. I would just like to add that until you get a feel for the wattage drop when the battery needs charged, you can always test your batteries periodically with a multimeter. They're dirt cheap and not especially big.

In fact, a multimeter is a good tool to have around in general. That way you can test your batteries if you ever suspect one might be overcharged, or too drained to be used/charged safely. You can also use it as a backup for atty testing, if for some reason your main meter conks out on you, or is giving suspicious readings.

Doing even the most mundane signal tracing,,multi meter is a must. Without one you're blind.
Feel we are all going to get into minor repairs as the 'Regs' kick in..

 

[rice721]

you guys can google istick 50 fire. There were a few of them autofiring then there was 1 that caught fire charging I believe.

 

[JokkeD86]

All solid advice. I would just like to add that until you get a feel for the wattage drop when the battery needs charged, you can always test your batteries periodically with a multimeter. They're dirt cheap and not especially big.

In fact, a multimeter is a good tool to have around in general. That way you can test your batteries if you ever suspect one might be overcharged, or too drained to be used/charged safely. You can also use it as a backup for atty testing, if for some reason your main meter conks out on you, or is giving suspicious readings.

Couldn't I just use a proper charger that cuts of the charging automaticly when done - And when I vape keep an eye on the display of the VTC mini too make sure i'm not low on power AND that I am vaping below 60W?

Sorry, I just need some strict basic guidelines to follow... not formulas and other complex stuff Just some rules that I can use with my exact setup. I'm not ever gonna change it. I kind of refuse to buy a meter and control-test all the time, too much work during the day, then I rather be smoking cigarettes again

 

[speedy_r6]

Couldn't I just use a proper charger that cuts of the charging automaticly when done - And when I vape keep an eye on the display of the VTC mini too make sure i'm not low on power AND that I am vaping below 60W?

Sorry, I just need some strict basic guidelines to follow... not formulas and other complex stuff Just some rules that I can use with my exact setup. I'm not ever gonna change it. I kind of refuse to buy a meter and control-test all the time, too much work during the day, then I rather be smoking cigarettes again

Your wall adapter doesnt stop sending power. It is the chip in the device that stops accepting it. That is what people are referring to. If the charging circuit in the device goes bad, it may stop charging altogether(not really too terrible of a thing), or it may overcharge the batteries until the vent(this one is pretty bad).

When you have a mod, you have a cheap item that was primarily made to take an imput power, adjust it to the proper output voltage, and feed that to a certain connector. The charging of a battery is a secondary function. It is often accomplished by means of using a very cheap charging circuit. When you have a dedicated charger, it was designed with one function in mind: to charge batteries. Therefore, they typically put a MUCH better charging circuit in something specifically made for charging batteries. This is why people recommend using the external dedicated charger.