RDA Just got my first RDA: Mutation X V2 Copper Finish

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pls0138

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ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2014
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242
New Jersey
Love my Lemo RTAs, but I felt it was time to try out a dripper. I wanted to get something with big airflow, single or dual coil capability, and of course affordable, but I didn't want a clone. After some research, I decided to go with the MX V2. Since all of my devices up to this point have been either black or silver/steel, I decided to go with the copper finish on the MX, glad I did looks pretty awesome. Going to put a 1-1.1 ohm single coil in there using 27 gauge kanthal (I liked 26 and 28 gauge so this time I went in the middle haha) I'll post some pics when I'm done.
Any other MX owners out there with any useful tips/suggestions bring em on, I'm always open to any and all advice.
 

twall

Moved On
Sep 10, 2014
565
332
Jamestown, NY,USA
Love my MX. I built it dual coil down to .26 using 24ga. The airflow and the heat sink keep the vape (and your tip, respectively) cool, even at low builds. Going to finish it out with a bottom build deck heat sink. Which will make it look like a Vulcan. But more than looks, it keeps the Atty heat off my mech.

Congrats on a solid dripper. You'll love it!

As far as tips, don't use all 9 holes for a single coil build. Too much air, and the vapor will be rather thin. Close it down to like 3. I find even 6 per side on .26 is a bit much.
 
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pls0138

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 2, 2014
226
242
New Jersey
I'll post the pics later today gotta upload them on the computer. I defiantly see why some people prefer drippers, flavor and airflow is off the chart. I actually have the almost completely closed, I have so those last three holes are just barely open, that huge drip tip alone gives you serious airflow.
Very happy with this purchase. The juice channels are deep enough to hold a nice amount of juice without having to worry about leaking or overfilling. Easy as hell to build on as well, installed the coil in like two seconds, reading one ohm on the istick. Not sure how I feel about those triangular screws in the posts yet, I like how you can screw it down flush with the posts, I just hope I don't lose that little tool they give you haha (looks like you could use a small eyeglass flat head screwdriver if need be). This could very easily become my go to atty when I'm just chilling at home.
 

Stringplucker

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Mar 29, 2014
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Tarentum, PA, USA
Once you add the cost of developing and machining a RDA, $100 is understandable. However, I have no issues with clones, because they are much more affordable. It's not uncommon for the final cost of the final designed and first machined piece to be $1000 or more. Authentic pieces are made in smaller numbers than clones, so that they can keep the price up and re-coup the initial costs. So, $100 is understandable over the $30 clone cost...because clone makers don't have to pay for R&D.

I have a couple of authentic pieces, but find that the clones are just as good as the original...at pennies on the dollar. I have an authentic Tobh, but use the clone much more...because I'd rather burn the insulator in the clone than the original.

I have a theory about clone makers. I think the authentic makers sell the design to the clone makers to help offset the R&D costs...but that's just a theory.
 
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