Just got a tugboat v1 mech cylinder clone curious about build

[LikelySplash710]

Hey everyone, I recently got a clone of the tugboat v1 super cheap and just got a couple batteries for it. One is an lh18650 2500mah 3.7v the other I believe is a Sony 18650 with 2600mah vtc 5 I believe. I have never used a mech before and am wondering where to start building. I have stainless steel wire 316l and kanthal A1 at my disposal.
I would love any feedback ideas and tips

thanks! Also I have already had the mech safety rundown I have an ohm meter an two regulated mods to build on and I understand ohms law!!!

 

[stols001]

Are these batteries you purchased yourself, they didn't come with the mod, right? I'm sorry, I'm just checking. How old are the batteries?

Do you mean what resistance build you should use? I'd say starting out if it's a single battery mod, 0.5--0.7 sounds safe, for the most part, but I'm far from an expert about it. With a single battery mod, though, you don't want to go crazy low resistance to start (someone can probably come by and put that much more eloquently and in terms you'd understand as far as Ohm's law, but you get the drift, I'm sure.) Also, you can use either wire but for mechs, most folks prefer Kanthal but you can use either....

Have you built an RDA before? Because what gauge of wire matters, too, in terms of building: if you know what you have, you could take a look at steam engine. org. In fact, I probably would. If I were to be building on a mech I would start with a simple build and maybe a single coil? With that said, you don't have to, if you are accomplished at building coils.

I am also prepared to be Wrong at All Times, and I'm not using a mech yet, though I am reading up on it some and um, you seem pretty non-specific about some stuff, which I very much hope you do know the answers to well, I'm going to leave the rest of this to the experts....

Good luck,

Anna

 

[LikelySplash710]

Are these batteries you purchased yourself, they didn't come with the mod, right? I'm sorry, I'm just checking. How old are the batteries?

Do you mean what resistance build you should use? I'd say starting out if it's a single battery mod, 0.5--0.7 sounds safe, for the most part, but I'm far from an expert about it. With a single battery mod, though, you don't want to go crazy low resistance to start (someone can probably come by and put that much more eloquently and in terms you'd understand as far as Ohm's law, but you get the drift, I'm sure.) Also, you can use either wire but for mechs, most folks prefer Kanthal but you can use either....

Have you built an RDA before? Because what gauge of wire matters, too, in terms of building: if you know what you have, you could take a look at steam engine. org. In fact, I probably would. If I were to be building on a mech I would start with a simple build and maybe a single coil? With that said, you don't have to, if you are accomplished at building coils.

I am also prepared to be Wrong at All Times, and I'm not using a mech yet, though I am reading up on it some and um, you seem pretty non-specific about some stuff, which I very much hope you do know the answers to well, I'm going to leave the rest of this to the experts....

Good luck,

Anna

Basically was just looking for a safe resistance for an aluminum mod I heard they're not as great as copper. The batteries are brand new two sets one ordered online from vapecraft the other from the vape shop in town. I know the LG ones are 20 amps and 3.7 I will have to double check the Sony ones. May 30amp but I don't want to go near the rated cap at all. I'm looking to get a feel for the mech I guess and see if I like it or not then progress. I'm up to building clapton and fused clapton could but overall I have been getting pretty good at building and installing my own coils!

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Both cells have a charged voltage of 4.2v which is what should be used to calculate amp demand.
It isn't the tube that determines a safe resistance, it is the batteries.
The very first thing to know (not guess) when using a mechanical is if the cell you're using are authentic and their actual CDR.

I'd start with kanthal simple single coil, then try twisted around .5Ω, then try dual 1.0Ω each.

 

[LikelySplash710]

So I was just saying about the aluminum mods from what I read dont hit as well and function poorly below .2ohms so thst gives me a base starting point and i know i don't want to go over any coils that will put out more than 10-15 amps to better understand the mech mod before I get crazy with it I want to be comfortable with it.

Both cells have a charged voltage of 4.2v which is what should be used to calculate amp demand.
It isn't the tube that determines a safe resistance, it is the batteries.
The very first thing to know (not guess) when using a mechanical is if the cell you're using are authentic and their actual CDR.

I'd start with kanthal simple single coil, then try twisted around .5Ω, then try dual 1.0Ω each.

Both cells have a charged voltage of 4.2v which is what should be used to calculate amp demand.
It isn't the tube that determines a safe resistance, it is the batteries.
The very first thing to know (not guess) when using a mechanical is if the cell you're using are authentic and their actual CDR.

I'd start with kanthal simple single coil, then try twisted around .5Ω, then try dual 1.0Ω each.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Also your saying a two 1ohm coils on the dual to make a .5 correct?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Yes, of course, 2 - 1.0Ω coils = .5Ω, but, I recommend starting with a simple single coil.

.2 or below isn't a good idea on any single cell mechanical unless you're experienced with mechanical use and using known authentic actual 25a - 30a CDR cells.
4.2v /.2 = 21a

The coil(s) won't 'put out' amps, the resistance at a given voltage causes an amp drain/draw/demand from the cell.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Yes, of course, 2 - 1.0Ω coils = .5Ω, but, I recommend starting with a simple single coil.

.2 or below isn't a good idea on any single cell mechanical unless you're experienced with mechanical use and using known authentic actual 25a - 30a CDR cells.
4.2v /.2 = 21a

The coil(s) won't 'put out' amps, the resistance at a given voltage causes an amp drain/draw/demand from the cell.

That's what I meant to me In my head it's don't go near the number thst makes things go boom. I'm gonna do 26ga kanthal spaced 7wraps or so

 

[LikelySplash710]

So didn't space them and the Sig S although it's quality material kinda blows. Might space em and try again. Don't think this mod will be able to throw a cloud. Will be a nice companion mod though for backup. Doubt it can handle my troll v2 probably need a better and bigger battery..

 

[puffon]

Might want to drill some holes for venting, if it has none.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Might want to drill some holes for venting, if it has none.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

7 wraps of 26ga kanthal, 2.5mm ID should be around .85Ω.

Of course you measured the resistance & pulse fired to ensure the coil was glowing from inside out before wicking and especially before firing on a mechanical.
What did your coil measure in Ω's?

 

[LikelySplash710]

7 wraps of 26ga kanthal, 2.5mm ID should be around .85Ω.

Of course you measured the resistance & pulse fired to ensure the coil was glowing from inside out before wicking and especially before firing on a mechanical.
What did your coil measure in Ω's?

It was dual at 3mm came out to .58 I think I actually did 8 wraps I was aiming for.54 but whatever. And yes I fired it up on my regulated mod then fired it on the mech away from my face before hitting it any

 

[AzPlumber]

thanks! Also I have already had the mech safety rundown I have an ohm meter an two regulated mods to build on and I understand ohms law!!!

These ^^ imply you have the knowledge, the nature of your questions give the impression you don't. I suggest you not rush into this and take some more time to learn and understand the whats and why of using a mechanical mod.

 

[LikelySplash710]

I've got the entire process down it's literally down to just getting hands on. I just want to ask and re-ask a lot of the same questions because I know the safety of my regulated mod is not present and this has one battery not my regulated setup that could handle 40amps so i didn't really worry building on rda. Also can I use tanks on the mech as long as they have a protruding 510 tip?

 

[HauntedMyst]

Yes you can. Just make sure the 510 pin hangs down further than the threads on the atty, its when its flush it's an issue.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Yes you can. Just make sure the 510 pin hangs down further than the threads on the atty, its when its flush it's an issue.

Sweet. Any recommended tanks as far as an rta I always manage to buy the pack of coils with the two of five broken could. I would prefer to build myself!

 

[VictorViper]

Well apparently this has become debatable, but please leave the prefab coils for the regulated mod. Lots of RTA options out there, will leave that to the experts.

 

[LikelySplash710]

Well apparently this has become debatable, but please leave the prefab coils for the regulated mod. Lots of RTA options out there, will leave that to the experts.

Luckily my vgod trick rdta 2 is in my p.o. box right now!!!! Got it half off super stoked. Gonna steer a bit away from the constant dripping and it has a velocity deck just like my troll v2 so it should be a solid starting point. I have a tfv4 and tfv8 rta but they are way wider than this mech mod.

 

[HauntedMyst]

Sweet. Any recommended tanks as far as an rta I always manage to buy the pack of coils with the two of five broken could. I would prefer to build myself!

Squapes are great since they are built like tanks and are adjustable for airflow and 510 length.