iTaste VTR problems

[ThereWillBeCubs]

Anybody still having trouble with the ohm meter/VW setting on this thing? Love almost every aspect except for the problems relating to the 510 wheel. Tried cleaning out the well with cotton swabs/alcohol prep pads/toothpicks/etc. and rotating the wheel for minutes in both directions. Ohm meter tends to run 0.2 ohms high for all "correct" readings and as much as 3.5 ohms high when giving faulty ones.

Anybody figure this out yet or is this something I'll have to live with? Apologies for the placement of this post. Any links or advice would be appreciated.

Set up is currently: the VTR using CGR18650CH batteries, protank 2, 2.2 ohm and 2.5 ohm heads, AVE juice.

 

[wonner]

I guess I'm out of the loop. Is this is known problem VTRs or an isolated incident?

 

[retired1]

Are you relying on what the printed resistance is on the coil head? Or are you testing with a meter and comparing it to the VTR?

 

[devauto]

Anybody still having trouble with the ohm meter/VW setting on this thing? Love almost every aspect except for the problems relating to the 510 wheel. Tried cleaning out the well with cotton swabs/alcohol prep pads/toothpicks/etc. and rotating the wheel for minutes in both directions. Ohm meter tends to run 0.2 ohms high for all "correct" readings and as much as 3.5 ohms high when giving faulty ones.

Anybody figure this out yet or is this something I'll have to live with? Apologies for the placement of this post. Any links or advice would be appreciated.

Set up is currently: the VTR using CGR18650CH batteries, protank 2, 2.2 ohm and 2.5 ohm heads, AVE juice.

Hi ThereWillBeCubs!

Sadly, the problem you are experiencing is a known issue with the VTRs. There are some work arounds that help make it more usable, but no real fixes. Some VTRs had worse problems than others, and some had no problems at all. I had one that had serious problems, and I blew out some coils because it was registering my coils at different resistance every time it fired.

I contacted the vendor I bought it from and they contacted Innokin ... Long story short, in the end, Innokin said that they had made some "minor" changes to the VTR that fixed the problem. I had to work through the vendor to get a replacement, but I have yet to receive my new one, so I can't tell you if Innokin really fixed the problem or not.

Depending on when you bought it, I would recommend contacting the seller and see if they will replace it. If not, then I would try contacting Innokin directly (I've heard that it's hard to get a response from them), and see if they will do anything about it. Otherwise, everything I've seen on this problem says that it works fine in VV mode (although I don't really understand how it could), so you may have to live without VW if you can't get any help with it. As always ... YMMV!

HTH, Good Luck!

 

[devauto]

Are you relying on what the printed resistance is on the coil head? Or are you testing with a meter and comparing it to the VTR?

Hi Retired1,

It doesn't matter what a meter says with this problem. The crux of the matter is that the VTR detects the resistance everytime you fire it in VW mode. At that moment, if it is reading 4.8, it fires as if there were a 4.8 ohm coil on it, even if you have a 1.8 or 2.2 actually on it. Since it doesn't show up on screen while you are vaping, or maintain any kind of history info, it is impossible to determine what resistance it fired at. The problem can be identified by using the ohm checker manually, if you get wildly different readings when testing the same coil, then you likely have a defective VTR.

For example, I use 2.2 ohm coils almost exclusively, and my VTR was reading it at 2.3, 2.6. 3.3, 4.8. It was like it was picking a number randomly. I thought maybe it was my coil, so I tested across multiple tanks with 2.2 ohm coils in them, but it didn't matter, treated them all the same. Funny thing was that my eVic read each coil perfectly at 2.2 ohms while the VTR was all over the map with them.

 

[wonner]

Anybody figure this out yet or is this something I'll have to live with?

I've found Innokin support to be very poor, or should I say nonexistent. If your dealer won't replace it with a working unit, you may have to settle for VV mode. VV mode still works properly, right?

 

[retired1]

The reason why I ask is because the stock coils that you get for certain innokin products aren't that reliable as far as resistance. My stock protank heads may read 1.8 on the bones, but the actual resistance may be all over the map. It's not the APV, it's the heads.

Since I've been recoiling my own heads, there's been no fluctuation on any of my APVs as far as a resistance reading. None. Check the actual resistance of the coil with a multi-meter. I'd wager it's not what Innokin says it's supposed to be for that particular coil.

 

[ThereWillBeCubs]

Thanks all for the responses. I do not own a separate ohm meter but through experience with the VTR have come to generally accept a reading as "accurate" if it is within 0.2 ohms of the marked atomizer head. I know that there is variation in coil production but it should be within a few tenths of an ohm. The variations I am observing are of a much greater magnitude.

I've found Innokin support to be very poor, or should I say nonexistent. If your dealer won't replace it with a working unit, you may have to settle for VV mode. VV mode still works properly, right?

This is pretty much what I have had to resort to (using only VV mode) in order to not have the unit over compensate and scorch my juice. I had upgraded from ego twist batteries so the VW feature was definitely a draw for me. I have read that the iClear 30s fits securely in the 510 wheel but I have not used it yet. I have noticed though that the protank 2 has a little wiggle play when connected and that the ohm meter reading will change from draw to draw.

I am wondering if the contact between my mouth and the drip tip interferes with the 510 connection given the little bit of play that occurs. Generally if I spin the wheel a little bit between draws, the resistance reading will remain constant but this is kind of a pain in the ... and doesn't fix the issue 100%.

I had read that excess machine oil in the 510 well had been an issue for others with the VTR and that it might disrupt conductivity but multiple cleanings have not resolved my problems.

 

[Vapoor eyes er]

Hi Retired1,

It doesn't matter what a meter says with this problem. The crux of the matter is that the VTR detects the resistance everytime you fire it in VW mode. At that moment, if it is reading 4.8, it fires as if there were a 4.8 ohm coil on it, even if you have a 1.8 or 2.2 actually on it. Since it doesn't show up on screen while you are vaping, or maintain any kind of history info, it is impossible to determine what resistance it fired at. The problem can be identified by using the ohm checker manually, if you get wildly different readings when testing the same coil, then you likely have a defective VTR.

For example, I use 2.2 ohm coils almost exclusively, and my VTR was reading it at 2.3, 2.6. 3.3, 4.8. It was like it was picking a number randomly. I thought maybe it was my coil, so I tested across multiple tanks with 2.2 ohm coils in them, but it didn't matter, treated them all the same. Funny thing was that my eVic read each coil perfectly at 2.2 ohms while the VTR was all over the map with them.

Yep the problem isn't with the heads but with the connector. Some have fixed it by fiddling with the connector. A shame as I had high hopes for Innokin quality.
I fixed a friend's different APV that had a similar issue- regardless of the tested res it was always registering completely wildly diff ohms resulting over and under firing. Turned out it was a poor connection inside the PV head.

 

[peraspera]

I have two VTRs, one from Vapor Beast and the other from an ECF coop. Neither have this issue. Your unit is defective. Contact your vendor for a replacement.

 

[peraspera]

I've found Innokin support to be very poor, or should I say nonexistent. If your dealer won't replace it with a working unit, you may have to settle for VV mode. VV mode still works properly, right?

Innokin only offers warranty replacements through their vendors. If a vendor is selling below Innokin's minimum suggested retail price they are on the hook themselves for replacements.

 

[ThereWillBeCubs]

UPDATE: I'm currently using an Aspire Nova Style BDC (1.5 ohm) with a 510 connection and although the VTR is still reading "high" the readout is a consistent 2.0 ohms. The Aspire tank fits much better in the recess with far less wiggle. I'm wondering now if the jumpy readings are due to the Protank base? Still haven't tried the iClear 30s yet though...

 

[glassgal]

Anybody still having trouble with the ohm meter/VW setting on this thing? Love almost every aspect except for the problems relating to the 510 wheel. Tried cleaning out the well with cotton swabs/alcohol prep pads/toothpicks/etc. and rotating the wheel for minutes in both directions. Ohm meter tends to run 0.2 ohms high for all "correct" readings and as much as 3.5 ohms high when giving faulty ones.

Anybody figure this out yet or is this something I'll have to live with? Apologies for the placement of this post. Any links or advice would be appreciated.

Set up is currently: the VTR using CGR18650CH batteries, protank 2, 2.2 ohm and 2.5 ohm heads, AVE juice.

I just got a VTR in a coop yesterday, and the wheel is fixed and doesn't move at all. Have NO problem with it, LOVE IT, but it's only a day old.

What's wrong with your ohm meter?

Mine came set to 6, and I didn't even look... but noticed my juice tasted a bit burnt... LOL! So I checked, and whoa... I dialed it down to 4.8 (which is WAAAAYYY higher than I normally set it to), and noticed that it also read 15 watts (I think that's what the next # is?). It's vaping my Vivi Nova BDC tank of stuff with great flavor, and the construction is just flawless!

 

[ThereWillBeCubs]

What's wrong with your ohm meter?

Ohm meter always reads high or super high. With a Protank 2 the tank tends to wiggle in the 510 connection causing ohm readings to jump all around (e.g. a 2.2 ohm atty will read: 2.4, 2.7, 3.5, 5.0, etc from draw to draw, without disconnecting the tank). The VW function is based on what resistance is measured so if it reads high it'll over compensate and apply too much voltage, and tends to scorch my juice.

I got mine from a coop too but was a couple months or so ago. I didn't realize the issues until it was too late.

Also: The wheel is stationary now?!

 

[glassgal]

Ohm meter always reads high or super high. With a Protank 2 the tank tends to wiggle in the 510 connection causing ohm readings to jump all around (e.g. a 2.2 ohm atty will read: 2.4, 2.7, 3.5, 5.0, etc from draw to draw, without disconnecting the tank). The VW function is based on what resistance is measured so if it reads high it'll over compensate and apply too much voltage, and tends to scorch my juice.

I got mine from a coop too but was a couple months or so ago. I didn't realize the issues until it was too late.

Also: The wheel is stationary now?!

Ok, just checked, same Vivi Nova tank I had in the VTR reads 2.2 on the VTR. 2.2 on Provari 1. 2.2 on Provari 2. It is absolutely on the money now. I don't have another tank set up with juice that will fit inside the VTR to test a different tank atm.

And yes, the wheel is completely stationary now, can't even wiggle it. Also, this VTR feels pretty darn nice. This one is a great fit and finish, after taking the battery out, I shook it really hard and nothing rattles at all except the battery cover at the very bottom just a hair. Yep, if you hold that down, nothing shakes at all, very solid. I put the battery back in, held the battery cover down, and shook with everything on it including tank and it is heavier than a brick that size and just as solid. Really nice!

It seems made for the Vivi Nova BDC (the glass one)... here's what it looks like with that tank:

 

[serenity21899]

I have 2 VTRs, one from a ECF member, and one from an online vendor. The one I bought on the classies is working fine. The other one is giving me messed up readings, and burned out a carto. (I use carto tanks, not iClears). I contacted the vendor for a replacement.

For me the problem was sporadic. After a couple of hours or so of vaping. If you let it sit for awhile unused, it seems to clear up. When it's not working, the numbers are random and junp all over the place. I never tried it in VV, nor will I I feel it is defective and needs to be replaced. A workaround is not acceptable to me.

 

[serenity21899]

Ok, just checked, same Vivi Nova tank I had in the VTR reads 2.2 on the VTR. 2.2 on Provari 1. 2.2 on Provari 2. It is absolutely on the money now. I don't have another tank set up with juice that will fit inside the VTR to test a different tank atm.

And yes, the wheel is completely stationary now, can't even wiggle it. Also, this VTR feels pretty darn nice. This one is a great fit and finish, after taking the battery out, I shook it really hard and nothing rattles at all except the battery cover at the very bottom just a hair. Yep, if you hold that down, nothing shakes at all, very solid. I put the battery back in, held the battery cover down, and shook with everything on it including tank and it is heavier than a brick that size and just as solid. Really nice!

It seems made for the Vivi Nova BDC (the glass one)... here's what it looks like with that tank:

What driptip is on your VTR? I could only find one like that in brushed, and it looks weird.

 

[Blueeddie1]

Is this problem exclusive to the VTR? I have an MVP2 that I love but It doesn't always read the resistance correctly. No problems popping coils or anything. just annoying is all.

 

[glassgal]

What driptip is on your VTR? I could only find one like that in brushed, and it looks weird.

It's just a regular stainless drip tip that I heated on one end to get a 'blue' effect at the top.

 

[foliagegreen]

Hi ThereWillBeCubs!

Sadly, the problem you are experiencing is a known issue with the VTRs. There are some work arounds that help make it more usable, but no real fixes. Some VTRs had worse problems than others, and some had no problems at all. I had one that had serious problems, and I blew out some coils because it was registering my coils at different resistance every time it fired.

I contacted the vendor I bought it from and they contacted Innokin ... Long story short, in the end, Innokin said that they had made some "minor" changes to the VTR that fixed the problem. I had to work through the vendor to get a replacement, but I have yet to receive my new one, so I can't tell you if Innokin really fixed the problem or not.

Depending on when you bought it, I would recommend contacting the seller and see if they will replace it. If not, then I would try contacting Innokin directly (I've heard that it's hard to get a response from them), and see if they will do anything about it. Otherwise, everything I've seen on this problem says that it works fine in VV mode (although I don't really understand how it could), so you may have to live without VW if you can't get any help with it. As always ... YMMV!

HTH, Good Luck!

Did you get your replacement yet? I bought mine through a local B&M and was wondering what the turn around time was for a replacement from innokin. Disappointing because other than this wheel issue, I really do love this device.