Is my ohm meter broke?

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Joe Vito

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assuming it is. I installed a premade dual coil that was suppose to come out to .22...and it was at around .80. I decided just to put it on my mod which is reading it as a .25

Are these coil master mini tabs the most reliable source? I feel like it’s probably a better idea just to use my mod when building and test firing (obviously not my mech mod)
 

Bolivar

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I look at it like it doesn't really matter what the coil manufacturer says it is, it's what your mod says it is that counts (as long as it isn't a mech). If your mod is happy... go with it.

You could order a .25 or .50 ohm resistor off Amazon or an electronics store and check your meter. I have one of each I keep to verify my meter's accuracy. Also, you might try a new battery in your meter.
 

Chodi

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I have a Coilmaster mini tab that does exactly the same thing. It is not the battery. Within a month after I got it it started reading ohms way off and never improved. I still use it as a build platform and I use it to fire my coils to juice them. I ignore the ohm reading as it is totally off most of the time. I build so much that I know what I am expecting my build to be so I just check the ohm reading when I set it on a mod. I have thought many times about replacing it but just never got motivated to do it.
 

untar

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I know the voltage is the output voltage, does this apply to the resistance as well or what the mod says the resistance is is the real resistance, not like the output or input or whatever?
There is no relevant resistance on the input side, the mod is showing what it thinks the resistance of the coil is.
 

Joe Vito

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I have a Coilmaster mini tab that does exactly the same thing. It is not the battery. Within a month after I got it it started reading ohms way off and never improved. I still use it as a build platform and I use it to fire my coils to juice them. I ignore the ohm reading as it is totally off most of the time. I build so much that I know what I am expecting my build to be so I just check the ohm reading when I set it on a mod. I have thought many times about replacing it but just never got motivated to do it.
When I have a few extra bucks I’m going to order the 521 plus tab...60 bucks though lol. For now I’ll just stick to the mod and if I want to use my mech I’ll stick it on the mod first to see the resistance
 

Coastal Cowboy

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I have a cheap, black plastic Ohm reader I picked up on clearance somewhere for about $5 about three years ago.

I still just build on the device the coil will be used on.

The only reason I'd buy something else just to read a coil is just because i want one and right now I don't.
 

stols001

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My coilmaster kit has been extremely reliable but I do check the battery status each time I use it. If replacing the battery doesn't work, it could be your ohm's reader isn't reading reliably for whatever reason, and yes you can use your mod to check resistance.

I like my ohm's reader mostly to have a stable base when building and I go all the way to filling and test firing the mod. I'd prefer to leak over my (cheap) ohm's reader (and trust me, I have) than a more expensive mod that I might toast. If you are comfortable with your building skills however you can use a regulated mod to check your resistance. It sounds like you're installing it correctly as your mod is reading close to the resistance of your storebought coils, so if everything else is going fine, then yes, you can use your regulated mod.

Best of luck. Ohm's readers do die, they aren't particularly expensive items. Mine has held up well under much abuse and if it ever dies, I will definitely replace it.

Anna
 

ScottP

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I have never used a separate ohm reader or build stand. I build while holding and use my mod to read resistance, since what your mod thinks it is, is what really counts anyway. If you really need a build stand you can buy a 510 connector for like $3 and mount it in a chunk of scrap 2x4. It won't care if you leak all over it. If you really want to get fancy, you could use a hole saw to cut it into a circle, sand it and stain/paint it. Make it a customized art piece and a build stand.
 
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Baditude

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Those inexpensive black box ohm readers have never been known to be precisely accurate, nor very durable. That's one of the reasons we preach to provide a safe margin of safety for your rebuildables if you sub-ohm. It's very difficult for any affordable device to be able to accurately measure coil resistance down to a tenth or hundreth of an ohm. A Fluke digital multimeter is most recommended for this, but you'll pay hundreds of dollars for one and need to recalibrate it on a routine basis.
 

Coastal Cowboy

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Those inexpensive black box ohm readers have never been known to be precisely accurate, nor very durable. That's one of the reasons we preach to provide a safe margin of safety for your rebuildables if you sub-ohm. It's very difficult for any affordable device to be able to accurately measure coil resistance down to a tenth or hundreth of an ohm. A Fluke digital multimeter is most recommended for this, but you'll pay hundreds of dollars for one and need to recalibrate it on a routine basis.
This cheapo black plastic reader reads to the hundredth and is accurate to the tenth. The cheapest regulated mod I have reads to the thousandth and is accurate to the hundredth. Here are two captures of the same build's resistance from NFE Tools Device Monitor. Both are from different Pico 75's.

Pico 1:
upload_2018-3-6_15-17-51.png


Pico 2:
upload_2018-3-6_15-19-8.png


Here's the same tank on the cheapo black plastic reader:
20180306_152429-sized.jpg


I'm rarely building below 0.25 Ohms and never that low with a single coil. It's just not necessary to get a great drag (for me) with a VW/TC device.

So a few hundredths of an Ohm is not worth me worrying about, and in my experience it's not worth dropping a wad of cash on a fancier device.
 
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