Flashlights... Push on Push Off - Make them momentary

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FlipnOut

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 16, 2009
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Greenville, SC
Many of us have the el-cheapo 9 led flashlights laying around. They sell them seemingly everywhere these days, but the one that I have is from Harbor Freight. I'd bet they're all the same on the switch end, and here's a way to make them a momentary switch.


Read all instructions prior to beginning.

1. Remove the switch end from the flashlight, and pull the rubber cover off the switch.

CIMG4070.jpg


2. Push the entire switch assembly out by pushing from the end where the switch is. It is a tight fit, but brute force will win the war.

CIMG4083.jpg


3. Pop the switch out of the housing, and disassemble. There are two halves to the housing, a spring, two flat metal contacts, a disc contact, and two pieces of round white plastic that make up the button. (This picture is clickable, so you can see a little text that I wrote on it to make it clearer)....



4. Cut the tabs off the corners of both pieces of white plastic. These tabs enable the push on/push off functionality. Once you cut them off, use a small file to file the remaining plastic until it is completely round, otherwise it can still catch and cause a push on/push off type feel.

(not pictured)

5. Super glue the two white pieces back together in their original order, then super glue the metallic disc to them.

CIMG4073.jpg


6. There is a small short pin on each end of the top housing section. Remove these two pins, leaving the area flat.

(Not pictured, click on the picture in section three for pin location)

7. Reinsert the plastic disc assembly into the top housing section, and set off to the side.

(Not pictured)

8. There is a wide plastic mount on each end of the bottom section. These mounts would have lined up with the pins that you removed from the top section. Remove these mounts, and file flat.

CIMG4076.jpg


9. Using your soldering iron and some solder, build up the thickness of the flat metal contacts until they are about 1/8" tall. This will fill in the holes, which are no longer necessary because you cut off the pins that would have gone through them.

10. Super glue the built up flat contacts into each end of the housing.

CIMG4077.jpg


11. Reassemble the two halves, don't forget the spring.

12. Check continuity both with the button pressed, and without. You should now have a momentary switch. If you do not, check your work.

13. Reinsert the switch assembly back into the housing, making sure that the long metal tab is curved under the switch, and contacting the spring that goes to the battery. The other tab will be touching the metal casing of the flashlight.

A few notes:

By building the contacts up in step 9, you remove the holes that the pins once went thru, and make it so that you don't have to push the button nearly as far to complete the circuit. This extra solder also helps hold the contacts in place by allowing them to press against the top section.

Once you reinsert the assembly back into the aluminum housing, recheck continuity to ensure that you have a complete circuit. One lead on the threads, the other on the spring, then press the button. If you do not have continuity, make sure that the long metal tab is contacting the spring by bending it out a bit. If still no continuity, then add a bit of solder to the outside of the short tab, which will give a better contact to the metal housing.
 
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FlipnOut

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 16, 2009
322
9
Greenville, SC
I have had these Harbor Freight lights since before Christmas, with the intention of doing this. Unfortunately my 18650's were on the rowboat from China, so there was no reason to tear them apart. When the batts showed up, I pulled it apart, and it's really a pretty simple mod to do it, albeit a bit time consuming your first time. I've got the second one torn apart right now, working on a fully mechanical switch for it.
 

FlipnOut

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 16, 2009
322
9
Greenville, SC
It would probably be tough to do with a 510 recessed connector. I'm using a hand-made 901 connector (for cartos), mounted in a washer that I've trimmed to press fit. The washer will be at the very top of the housing, the center conductor is a brass nail where the rounded head will directly contact the top of the battery, and the ground comes from the housing. I won't be able to finish this one up till tomorrow, I seemed to have misplaced the die that I bought to make the connectors. I'll run to my buddy's machine shop tomorrow and have him thread me some rod.
 

WillyB

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Oct 21, 2009
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USA
Just to add a bit here. Many flash lights use the identical switch. Every so often, on some models, the switch will screw out from the spring side, check the model you use first. The center will be raised and there will be 2 flat spots to grab on to. These models are much easier to work on and there is less chance of losing the little spring. These springs are so easy to lose.

You can also mod the switch without glue or solder. After you've sanded off the clicky stuff, you will need to bend up the 2 side contacts, the amount you bend will determine the switch throw. The bent contacts will sit on the original pins. You can also play with the little contact spring (shorten etc) to lighten up the amount of pressure for your new momentary. Some models have stronger springs.

Pics courtesy of Rocketman.
 

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FizzleFisch

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Sep 20, 2009
182
5
Lake Travis - Texas
Just to add yet another little bit like WillyB here....

I've also been converting the clicky-switches to momentary units for awhile now. But I've run across the following which might be helpful to some:

You can find several variations of these 'clicky-switches' available from DealXtreme. HOWEVER... one will soon discover, like I did, that not all of them are easily reworked into momentary switches!

First: Judging by the comparisons I've done amongst a variety of these switches, it seems there are several different makers of these things. You'll frequently find external dimensional variations as well as differing internal contact-design mechanisms between them. I'm sure a lot of this has to do with the fact that China's industrial manufacturing sector consists (to a large degree) of a conglomeration of relatively small family run maw-&-paw type job-shops. It would seem that although the basic essential design is copied fairly closely... each switch maker often seems to impart some small physical difference into their own particular end-product.

More importantly: I've found that many of the switches I've ordered have been either glued together or the ends of the small plastic index-pins have been thermally fused after final assembly during manufacture. -- This effectively renders such switches wholly unusable for conversion purposes; as it becomes virtually impossible to disassemble them without significant damage. -- It's not easy to visually determine (initially that is) if the switch you're trying to dis-assemble is one of these types. Therefore, I'd caution ya'll to be a little careful when using small tools like precision-screwdrivers or sharp knife-points etc. while trying to pry the body-halves apart. -- I've managed to self-inflict more than just a couple of painful puncture wounds and such... while wrestling with these things :-x :oops:

cheers,
fisch:D
 
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