Please read post #1 (link below) before asking any questions here. Thanks!
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/eight-different-fake-battery-types-to-report.908005/
The fake 30T’s are using a valid code, a zero, as the second character of the first line of codes on the metal can. They are also using free-floating (unglued) top insulating rings like genuine 30T’s. But the fakes do not have the the four radial score lines in the venting disk like genuine 30T’s and the metal can codes are positioned lower than on genuine 30T’s.
There are also genuine 30T’s with “N30T” as the top line of codes on the metal can. I do not know if there are fakes using this code or not. Check for the radial venting disk lines. No lines = fake.
The fakes perform much worse than genuine 30T’s and have very low current ratings. DO NOT USE THE FAKES FOR ANYTHING.
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/eight-different-fake-battery-types-to-report.908005/
The fake 30T’s are using a valid code, a zero, as the second character of the first line of codes on the metal can. They are also using free-floating (unglued) top insulating rings like genuine 30T’s. But the fakes do not have the the four radial score lines in the venting disk like genuine 30T’s and the metal can codes are positioned lower than on genuine 30T’s.
There are also genuine 30T’s with “N30T” as the top line of codes on the metal can. I do not know if there are fakes using this code or not. Check for the radial venting disk lines. No lines = fake.
The fakes perform much worse than genuine 30T’s and have very low current ratings. DO NOT USE THE FAKES FOR ANYTHING.
