Dry burning cCell ceramic coils

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Imfallen_Angel

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First: what type of coils are they? the kanthal or NI or TI.

If kanthal, you should be able to no problem... look for it on Youtube, some people make instructional videos about it.

If NI or TI.. nope.. you cannot dry burn those metals without risk of causing them to oxidize and breathing that is considered really (and I mean REALLY) bad for your health.

But, the Vaporasso coil cartridges are amazingly well designed, and are very easy to rebuild... you'd just need proper cotton, wire and a few basic tools and. It's cost you penny per coils and you can rebuild them many many times (I have ONE that broke on me so far and was my own fault, just too rough with it)

I've been using them as my go-to coil cartridges for my tanks (those coils are cross compatible with a LOT of tanks) and my rebuilds are actually better than the ceramic original builds.

The trouble with the ceramic is that some liquids are too thick to wick right, and LOTS of store bought liquids are so full of sweeteners that the coils and ceramic will gum up fairly fast. I've has some new ones that lasted me a good 2-3 weeks, others 2-3 days.
 

dennism

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First: what type of coils are they? the kanthal or NI or TI.

If kanthal, you should be able to no problem... look for it on Youtube, some people make instructional videos about it.

If NI or TI.. nope.. you cannot dry burn those metals without risk of causing them to oxidize and breathing that is considered really (and I mean REALLY) bad for your health.

But, the Vaporasso coil cartridges are amazingly well designed, and are very easy to rebuild... you'd just need proper cotton, wire and a few basic tools and. It's cost you penny per coils and you can rebuild them many many times (I have ONE that broke on me so far and was my own fault, just too rough with it)

I've been using them as my go-to coil cartridges for my tanks (those coils are cross compatible with a LOT of tanks) and my rebuilds are actually better than the ceramic original builds.

The trouble with the ceramic is that some liquids are too thick to wick right, and LOTS of store bought liquids are so full of sweeteners that the coils and ceramic will gum up fairly fast. I've has some new ones that lasted me a good 2-3 weeks, others 2-3 days.
 

Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Ottawa area, Canada
i watched that one, its the only one i found, but its in german so i don't now what he said.
I remember seeing some others, couldn't find them quickly, but the essence of it is hot water, rinse dry burn, rinse, repeat, then all some liquid to push the water out, and re-prime.

I do know that I had done similar with the NI, but has used my ultrasonic cleaner, tried denture cleaner too.. it can work if it's not too gummed up, but there is a limit to how clean you can really get them again and the ceramic will wear out from the high heat.

As I said.. it you take a bit of time and get the tolls needed, they are really easy to rebuild.
 

Boodaddy

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Jul 2, 2016
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First: what type of coils are they? the kanthal or NI or TI.

If kanthal, you should be able to no problem... look for it on Youtube, some people make instructional videos about it.

If NI or TI.. nope.. you cannot dry burn those metals without risk of causing them to oxidize and breathing that is considered really (and I mean REALLY) bad for your health.

But, the Vaporasso coil cartridges are amazingly well designed, and are very easy to rebuild... you'd just need proper cotton, wire and a few basic tools and. It's cost you penny per coils and you can rebuild them many many times (I have ONE that broke on me so far and was my own fault, just too rough with it)

I've been using them as my go-to coil cartridges for my tanks (those coils are cross compatible with a LOT of tanks) and my rebuilds are actually better than the ceramic original builds.

The trouble with the ceramic is that some liquids are too thick to wick right, and LOTS of store bought liquids are so full of sweeteners that the coils and ceramic will gum up fairly fast. I've has some new ones that lasted me a good 2-3 weeks, others 2-3 days.

Can you dry burn the Vaporesso Guardian Stainless Steel coils as well? I am having the problem you describe with wick. Some of the Halo coffee, and tangerine swirl lasted me a couple tanks before the air draw became really tight. I tried soaking them in white viniger, and water. No luck with that. Would love to see a tuturial on how to rebuild these. Not sure if the guardian coils are rebuildable or not. Looks like one peice to me. Appreciate any help or advice you can offer.

Thanks!
God Bless!
 

Imfallen_Angel

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Apr 10, 2016
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Ottawa area, Canada
Can you dry burn the Vaporesso Guardian Stainless Steel coils as well? I am having the problem you describe with wick. Some of the Halo coffee, and tangerine swirl lasted me a couple tanks before the air draw became really tight. I tried soaking them in white viniger, and water. No luck with that. Would love to see a tuturial on how to rebuild these. Not sure if the guardian coils are rebuildable or not. Looks like one peice to me. Appreciate any help or advice you can offer.

Thanks!
God Bless!

Kantham and Stainless are considered fine to dry burn (within reason of course)

If airdraw is thight, can you look inside it through the chimney and see how it looks if something's blocking it.

Sorry I'm really not familiar with the guardian model at all and I gather it's fairly new as there's really not much info about them.

To know if they are rebuildable, it comes down to one thing.. can it be disassembled and put back together again without much difficulties?
 

Boodaddy

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Jul 2, 2016
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Kantham and Stainless are considered fine to dry burn (within reason of course)

If airdraw is thight, can you look inside it through the chimney and see how it looks if something's blocking it.

Sorry I'm really not familiar with the guardian model at all and I gather it's fairly new as there's really not much info about them.

To know if they are rebuildable, it comes down to one thing.. can it be disassembled and put back together again without much difficulties?

I used one to check out, and it actually wasn't that hard to get apart. You can stick a long small socket down the cylinder, and hit the socket gripping the cylinder, and the bottom part with the coil comes out.

After that, you will need a small flat screwdriver to seperate the metal that covers the coil. It's bascially a snap on metal peice. Then you can take the metal nipple off on the bottom of the coil, and then the rubber washer and push the coil right out. (Forgive me for not knowing the correct terms for these parts)

I can take some images tomorrow, and post them if you want.

Appreciate your time, and help

Thanks Again,
God Bless!
 
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Imfallen_Angel

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 10, 2016
1,711
2,763
Ottawa area, Canada
I used one to check out, and it actually wasn't that hard to get apart. You can stick a long small socket down the cylinder, and hit the socket gripping the cylinder, and the bottom part with the coil comes out.

After that, you will need a small flat screwdriver to seperate the metal that covers the coil. It's bascially a snap on metal peice. Then you can take the metal nipple off on the bottom of the coil, and then the rubber washer and push the coil right out. (Forgive me for not knowing the correct terms for these parts)

I can take some images tomorrow, and post them if you want.

Appreciate your time, and help

Thanks Again,
God Bless!
Sure, I'd be curious as no one else sems to have looked into these.

So taking them apart is possible, it's getting them back together again correctly that would need to be seen.

The goal when rebuilding is getting a new coil in place correctly with the cotton so that it becomes your insulator as well as the wick.
 
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