Do eGo batteries put out contant voltage for the most part?

[5bucks]

Do eGo batteries put out contant voltage for the most part? Like in the 3.7 volt range? I check them with a multimeter and they change depending on the state of charge but a multimeter is not putting the battery under a load so I don't think the results really apply.

According to the sticky on this sub-forum..

eGo-t2 upgrade (aka eGo-t upgrade and so stated on the batt) - it has the same short and charge protection as the eGo-t, but not as good as the eGo-c. It has two modes of operation - regulated at 3.4v constant (white led) and unregulated at 3.7V which goes through the normal 3.7V curve - @4.2V off the charger, 3.6-3.7V for most of the charge falling to 3.2V at the end. (orange led for that mode). The eGo-t2 upgrade has no changing led button regarding charge. It has a 5 click on/off feature.

At least the Joyetech eGo-t2 model does.

My plain eGo's are not Joyetech but instead distributed by AquaVapor as they are branded with their logo on the bottom. I also have a tiny 350mah one on the way from fasttech. I'm just wondering if it's a general rule of thumb that eGo's do put out a constant voltage.

Thanks!

 

[Kent C]

Do eGo batteries put out contant voltage for the most part? Like in the 3.7 volt range? I check them with a multimeter and they change depending on the state of charge but a multimeter is not putting the battery under a load so I don't think the results really apply.

According to the sticky on this sub-forum..At least the Joyetech eGo-t2 model does.

My plain eGo's are not Joyetech but instead distributed by AquaVapor as they are branded with their logo on the bottom. I also have a tiny 350mah one on the way from FastTech. I'm just wondering if it's a general rule of thumb that eGo's do put out a constant voltage.

Thanks!

The eGo-c upgrade batts are the same - 2 modes. One constant, the other variable - but not in the Twist sense - from 4.2V off the charger going quickly down to @3.6-3.8V for most of the charge dropping to 3.2V at the end of the charge. In variable mode - that 3.7V range will be underload. In constant mode it's @3.4V underload.

The only one I know for sure is the Riva SE (special edition) that is 3.7V underload where other Rivas run around 3.4V underload. From my experience with clones - some are 3.4V and some 3.7V not sure of the minis.

 

[5bucks]

Thanks but I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean by the 2 modes. Is this something you can switch modes with by pressing the fire button?

And can you try to clarify it for me? I worked 24 years of my life with electronics but haven't for 10 years now and the mind goes!

I see that the use pulse-width modulation to control the voltage but what I'm not getting from your post is whether you are referring to one mode that bypasses the PWM and one that uses it.

2nd edit: nm. I re-read the post I quoted and understand it now. I just need to know how to switch modes. If you can provide me with that, I would appreciate it.
nm. I got the info from the Joyetech site...

This Joyetech upgrade battery has two modes to switch. One is the constant voltage output mode which is what we have used before. Another is variable voltage output mode.Switching operation and features :
1. From constant voltage output mode to new battery voltage output:
1.1 When the mode is 3.3.v constant output mode, you can lock the battery by 5 clicks (blue LED blinks 3 times).
1.2 By pressing button for 5 seconds, LED will change to orange with 3 blinks. The battery has switched
to variable voltage output mode (battery voltage output mode).
1.3 Then you can use as usual by 5 clicks off and smoke in battery voltage output.
1.4 In new battery voltage output mode, the LED is orange and battery doesn't have power display function.
1.5 When charging, orange LED will blink 5 times in this new mode.
2. From new battery voltage output to constant voltage output mode:
2.1 In new battery voltage output mode, you can lock the battery by 5 clicks again (orange LED blinks 3 times).
2.2 By pressing button for 5 seconds, LED will change to blue with 3 blinks. And the mode has switched to
3.3V constant voltage output mode.
2.3 Then you can use as usual by 5 clicks off and smoke in 3.3V constant voltage.
2.4 In 3.3V constant voltage, the battery features has no difference from present eGo-C battery.

2.5 When charging, blue LED blinks 5 times in this mode.

BTW, Maybe you know this already but I came across this video that shows the Riva's are the same as real eGo's in that they are manufactured by Joyetech. The SE one just doesn't seem to have the PWM control from what you are saying.

 

[Kent C]

Thanks but I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean by the 2 modes. Is this something you can switch modes with by pressing the fire button?

And can you try to clarify it for me? I worked 24 years of my life with electronics but haven't for 10 years now and the mind goes!

I see that the use pulse-width modulation to control the voltage but what I'm not getting from your post is whether you are referring to one mode that bypasses the PWM and one that uses it.

2nd edit: nm. I re-read the post I quoted and understand it now. I just need to know how to switch modes. If you can provide me with that, I would appreciate it.
nm. I got the info from the Joyetech site...



BTW, Maybe you know this already but I came across this video that shows the Riva's are the same as real eGo's in that they are manufactured by Joyetech. The SE one just doesn't seem to have the PWM control from what you are saying.

As stated in the blurb and comments at youtube, joyetech doesn't manufacture batteries and there's a good chance that they stamp some of them and sell them. This was a while ago 2011 and since the eGo-c and eGo-c upgrade batts are the main 'upgrade' (in short and charge protection) but they still sell the eGo-t (which also has had an upgrade - better than when the eGo-t was released but not at the level of the eGo-c).

Before Joye added the "t" and the "c" I considered Riva to be the best knock-off, but myself and others began having 'short protection' problems with them. Still, they were good as long as you watched the ohms of the coils. Anything below 1.5 ohms on any eGo-type batt is asking for problems even now. The only thing is, eGo-c or eGo-c upgrade won't explode. They'll recover from one short and then just die on the second one. For quite a while I had that happen only twice on an eGo-c, but my move into the Kanger T3D (dual coils) have lost me now 3 eGo-c's and caused the first error code on an itaste VV V3, so I quit using them. I have one Aspire Pen mini (Santa Clara Vapers) with a dual coils that hasn't given me those problems.

 

[5bucks]

Oh wow. I mainly use Mini Protank 3's that use the same heads as the T3D's and also have an iTaste VV along with my eGo's. I presume the failures are because of the ohm value of the heads? I'm still trying to have the effects of ohms sink into my brain nice and good with all the other stuff that's inundating it ATM so what's safer for the batteries? Lower or higher ohms?

EDIT: My current hardware: Mini Protanks came with 1.5 ohm heads and I have a 5x replacement pack of 2.0's and plan on getting into rebuilding them instead of ordering more heads.

 

[Kent C]

Oh wow. I mainly use Mini Protank 3's that use the same heads as the T3D's and also have an iTaste VV along with my eGo's. I presume the failures are because of the ohm value of the heads? I'm still trying to have the effects of ohms sink into my brain nice and good with all the other stuff that's inundating it ATM so what's safer for the batteries? Lower or higher ohms?

EDIT: My current hardware: Mini Protanks came with 1.5 ohm heads and I have a 5x replacement pack of 2.0's and plan on getting into rebuilding them instead of ordering more heads.

I had both the 1.5 and the 2.0Ω dual coils and both took out my batts. I had some just die immediately and a few others where the led went from white to blue in just a few minutes. I tossed them. The itaste is still working but it was the first time I saw an error with it.

I got some of the first T3D's to come out. I reported it to Wayne at heaven gifts who is in close contact with both Joye and Kanger techs/engineers, so perhaps they've fixed it but it hasn't been that long really... I tried them just on a lark as the single coils work well for me. I'm sticking with them Dual coils have made a comeback and I expected more feedback but perhaps it's on the atty/clearo/coil forums which I don't frequent.... The bigger mods likely handle them better. The culprit with eGos may be the PWM.

 

[Wow1420]

Do eGo batteries put out contant voltage for the most part? Like in the 3.7 volt range? I check them with a multimeter and they change depending on the state of charge but a multimeter is not putting the battery under a load so I don't think the results really apply.

According to the sticky on this sub-forum..At least the Joyetech eGo-t2 model does.

My plain eGo's are not Joyetech but instead distributed by AquaVapor as they are branded with their logo on the bottom. I also have a tiny 350mah one on the way from FastTech. I'm just wondering if it's a general rule of thumb that eGo's do put out a constant voltage.

Thanks!

Clones are allover the board, some start at 4.2 and run down to 3.? (whatever the low battery cutoff is). Some have a fixed 3.7 output. The description on the FT minis states "Working voltage: 3.7-4.2V" so it sounds like they track actual internal battery voltage as they run down the charge.

I've also never had a bad coil take out a clone ego. I've tested the short protection on mine and it works. I applied a hard short on the connector multiple times and the 3 blink shutdown occurred every time and the battery kept working.

 

[r77r7r]

Clones are allover the board, some start at 4.2 and run down to 3.? (whatever the low battery cutoff is). Some have a fixed 3.7 output. The description on the FT minis states "Working voltage: 3.7-4.2V" so it sounds like they track actual internal battery voltage as they run down the charge.

I've also never had a bad coil take out a clone ego. I've tested the short protection on mine and it works. I applied a hard short on the connector multiple times and the 3 blink shutdown occurred every time and the battery kept working.

On what brand ego did you do this multiple shorting?

 

[Wow1420]

On what brand ego did you do this multiple shorting?

Kanger evod batteries, a Vision mini, generic Egos from Stormy's Vapor, High Desert Vapes, Desert Vapes and a couple of cheapies from FT.