WELL...It finally happened. I'd originally purchased my Ego-T passthrough from DragonFly, and the first one died in a month; but the replacement took almost 5 months to die so I can't argue for 30 bucks.
After it died I realized...CRAP - My VV isn't in the mail yet...so It was time to break out the brain, soldering iron, electrical tape, and wire, and give you guys yet ANOTHER of my (self proclaimed) Infamous DIY Tutorials!!!
This is going to construct your own "lightweight" DIY Passthrough. I call it a "Poor mans Passthrough" because...well, it's cheap, and an easy alternative compared to those sucky ... store bought 510 automatics. However, it is automatic, and doesn't use a button like the regular paid passthroughs do - but you'll find that you don't really need that... ^_^
This will create a stable ~5 Volt (Standard USB voltage ouput) passhtrough mod for you to vape in 'till new equipment comes, or the such. I'm sorry that I didn't provide pics, but truth be told there's not really much to put a picture up for. You'll see that once you've put one together. The only thing I could really show you is the final product, which I have provided a video of.
Materials:
1. Either
A. Soldering Iron
or
B. Electrical Tape
2. Either
A. Sldering Wire / Desoldering Braid - If you opt to use a Soldering Iron
or
B. Nothing - if you opt to use Electrical Tape
3. Ego-T, C, K, W, or Even VV - All you need is a dead battery container, and the 510 connection that pops into the top of it!
4. A USB Cable - ANY USB Cable will work!!! Whether it's for an old cell phone, printer, or pretty much ANYTHING else (provided it has a male USB end to plug into your PC!
Here is one similar to what I'm using:
Triple USB Passhtrough Charging Cable - Newegg
5. Wire Cutters
6. Needle Nose Pliers
7. Self Powered External USB Port - I say to use an externally powered source JUST in case something goes wrong so that you don't possibly short out a motherboard connection. Sure, it can take it - but once you put it on there, and blow it, you can't use that port again, and may possibly do FAR worse damage than that to your motherboard. Direct USB to wall charger USB chargers should work fine for this too as they have a regulator fuse, and capacitors within them.
How To:
1. Remove the top and bottom from your Battery Casing. Be careful when removing the top from the Circuit board for the button. There is a short (around two inches long) positive wire that connects to the base of your 510 connection, and we need that wire in its entirely, so do NOT yank it from the 510 Female Connecter!!!!!!
Trash everything except the case, and the top 510 connector - I can't tell you how to use other styles as I've not sued them, and have no clue where the negative is on them.
2. Cut the Female, or "Charging" header off of the USB Cable - When I say "Charging" header, I'm referring to the part that would go into the phone, camera, wireless adapter, or other device, NOT the male USB Header. On the cable I used it was a Female USB but yours may be a Mirco USB, or any of several other types.
3. Strip down the plastic coating on the USB cable by about an inch, or two. Be careful not to cut the uncoated wire that lies right beneath this protective exterior, you will need that.
4. Unweave the uncoated bare wire that is woven around all the other wires.
5. Strip the Red, and Black Wires that were contained within the Uncoated wire.
6. Connect the stripped red wire from the usb cable to the red cable coming from the center of the 510 Female that you removed from the battery/case earlier.
7. Connect the stripped black wire from the USB Cable to the outside wall of the Female 510 Connection.
8. Wrap the male with Electrical Tape, or cover with resin, if you're soldering. MAKE SURE THAT IT IS COVERED COMPLETELY AND SAFELY AS IT WILL SHORT IF IT TOUCHES THE INSIDE OF THE OUTSIDE WALLS!
9. Cut, or grind a small section of the Battery Casing out for the negative cable to pass through it to the outside wall of the female connector. Pushing the battery cover against the cable without cutting this slit may cause the wire to strip, and could potentially cause damage to your USB Ports, or possibly you!
10. Warp the Female Cable against the outside walls using electrical Tape, or soldering iron, and then wrap the battery cover, and as much of the 510 Female as possible with electrical tape to make sure that IF something comes loose it doesn't shock you!
11. Pop your Tank, Cartomizer, Atomizer, etc. onto the "Poor Man's Passthrough" and enjoy!
A picture's worth a thousand words; but I'm badass, so I'm giving you a video of it in action instead!!!
My apologies for the audio - I have HIGH powered fans on my computer, and the microphone on my webcam just LOVES them. Hence me adding captions.
Video HERE:
***NOTES***
This is intended as a temporary solution, and is by NO MEANS a guide for a permanent solution (although I may make it into one later, it's not at the moment. When / if I do I'll post an entirely new guide to prevent confusion. Use this device sparingly, and only in "emergency situations" when you have no other option besides smoking analogs (I'd rather risk computer failure than resume smoking.)
The recorded voltage output on the device that I made is 5.10 Volts constant. This means that you should use an Atomizer, or Cartomizer that is compatible in Ohms 3-5 Ohms (High resistance.) I'm using a Standard resistance at the time of writing this while using the handmade device, and it performs well, but I'm certain that it's killing the cartomizer prematurely.
**DISCLAIMER**
Provided you followed all steps correctly this guide will work 100% as intended. Any faulty actions that were taken, or instructions that were missed are yours alone, and I take no responsibility for any damage as a result thereof.
THIS GUIDE IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. ANY USE OF THE GUIDE, ITS MATERIALS, OR INSTRUCTIONS REMOVES ME OF ALL FAULT THAT MAY OCCUR. ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOURSELF, OR ANY OF THE MATERIALS, LISTED OR NOT IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND UPON USING THIS GUIDE YOU AGREE THAT ANY AND ALL DAMAGE OCCURRING AS A RESULT OF THE USE OF THE GUIDE IS YOUR CAUSE / CONCERN.
After it died I realized...CRAP - My VV isn't in the mail yet...so It was time to break out the brain, soldering iron, electrical tape, and wire, and give you guys yet ANOTHER of my (self proclaimed) Infamous DIY Tutorials!!!
This is going to construct your own "lightweight" DIY Passthrough. I call it a "Poor mans Passthrough" because...well, it's cheap, and an easy alternative compared to those sucky ... store bought 510 automatics. However, it is automatic, and doesn't use a button like the regular paid passthroughs do - but you'll find that you don't really need that... ^_^
This will create a stable ~5 Volt (Standard USB voltage ouput) passhtrough mod for you to vape in 'till new equipment comes, or the such. I'm sorry that I didn't provide pics, but truth be told there's not really much to put a picture up for. You'll see that once you've put one together. The only thing I could really show you is the final product, which I have provided a video of.
Materials:
1. Either
A. Soldering Iron
or
B. Electrical Tape
2. Either
A. Sldering Wire / Desoldering Braid - If you opt to use a Soldering Iron
or
B. Nothing - if you opt to use Electrical Tape
3. Ego-T, C, K, W, or Even VV - All you need is a dead battery container, and the 510 connection that pops into the top of it!
4. A USB Cable - ANY USB Cable will work!!! Whether it's for an old cell phone, printer, or pretty much ANYTHING else (provided it has a male USB end to plug into your PC!
Here is one similar to what I'm using:
Triple USB Passhtrough Charging Cable - Newegg
5. Wire Cutters
6. Needle Nose Pliers
7. Self Powered External USB Port - I say to use an externally powered source JUST in case something goes wrong so that you don't possibly short out a motherboard connection. Sure, it can take it - but once you put it on there, and blow it, you can't use that port again, and may possibly do FAR worse damage than that to your motherboard. Direct USB to wall charger USB chargers should work fine for this too as they have a regulator fuse, and capacitors within them.
How To:
1. Remove the top and bottom from your Battery Casing. Be careful when removing the top from the Circuit board for the button. There is a short (around two inches long) positive wire that connects to the base of your 510 connection, and we need that wire in its entirely, so do NOT yank it from the 510 Female Connecter!!!!!!
Trash everything except the case, and the top 510 connector - I can't tell you how to use other styles as I've not sued them, and have no clue where the negative is on them.
2. Cut the Female, or "Charging" header off of the USB Cable - When I say "Charging" header, I'm referring to the part that would go into the phone, camera, wireless adapter, or other device, NOT the male USB Header. On the cable I used it was a Female USB but yours may be a Mirco USB, or any of several other types.
3. Strip down the plastic coating on the USB cable by about an inch, or two. Be careful not to cut the uncoated wire that lies right beneath this protective exterior, you will need that.
4. Unweave the uncoated bare wire that is woven around all the other wires.
5. Strip the Red, and Black Wires that were contained within the Uncoated wire.
6. Connect the stripped red wire from the usb cable to the red cable coming from the center of the 510 Female that you removed from the battery/case earlier.
7. Connect the stripped black wire from the USB Cable to the outside wall of the Female 510 Connection.
8. Wrap the male with Electrical Tape, or cover with resin, if you're soldering. MAKE SURE THAT IT IS COVERED COMPLETELY AND SAFELY AS IT WILL SHORT IF IT TOUCHES THE INSIDE OF THE OUTSIDE WALLS!
9. Cut, or grind a small section of the Battery Casing out for the negative cable to pass through it to the outside wall of the female connector. Pushing the battery cover against the cable without cutting this slit may cause the wire to strip, and could potentially cause damage to your USB Ports, or possibly you!
10. Warp the Female Cable against the outside walls using electrical Tape, or soldering iron, and then wrap the battery cover, and as much of the 510 Female as possible with electrical tape to make sure that IF something comes loose it doesn't shock you!
11. Pop your Tank, Cartomizer, Atomizer, etc. onto the "Poor Man's Passthrough" and enjoy!
A picture's worth a thousand words; but I'm badass, so I'm giving you a video of it in action instead!!!
My apologies for the audio - I have HIGH powered fans on my computer, and the microphone on my webcam just LOVES them. Hence me adding captions.
Video HERE:
***NOTES***
This is intended as a temporary solution, and is by NO MEANS a guide for a permanent solution (although I may make it into one later, it's not at the moment. When / if I do I'll post an entirely new guide to prevent confusion. Use this device sparingly, and only in "emergency situations" when you have no other option besides smoking analogs (I'd rather risk computer failure than resume smoking.)
The recorded voltage output on the device that I made is 5.10 Volts constant. This means that you should use an Atomizer, or Cartomizer that is compatible in Ohms 3-5 Ohms (High resistance.) I'm using a Standard resistance at the time of writing this while using the handmade device, and it performs well, but I'm certain that it's killing the cartomizer prematurely.
**DISCLAIMER**
Provided you followed all steps correctly this guide will work 100% as intended. Any faulty actions that were taken, or instructions that were missed are yours alone, and I take no responsibility for any damage as a result thereof.
THIS GUIDE IS FOR EDUCATIONAL PURPOSES ONLY. ANY USE OF THE GUIDE, ITS MATERIALS, OR INSTRUCTIONS REMOVES ME OF ALL FAULT THAT MAY OCCUR. ANY DAMAGE DONE TO YOURSELF, OR ANY OF THE MATERIALS, LISTED OR NOT IS DONE AT YOUR OWN RISK, AND UPON USING THIS GUIDE YOU AGREE THAT ANY AND ALL DAMAGE OCCURRING AS A RESULT OF THE USE OF THE GUIDE IS YOUR CAUSE / CONCERN.
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