Diver V2 Rebuildable Atomizer by Atmistique **Discussion & Tips**
- Thread starter jmarkus
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- atmistique diver v2
- Status
welp, im in for a diver v2, enezlis 35mm flanged version. i really loved the diver v1 except a little bit of leaking, so excited to see if that issue got resolved with the new orings. seems like theyve got a similar cone design as the sophia for flavor, but wondering about wicking too much juice and not being able to control for that. those slots look big.
should have this baby in a week or two, fun!! come on people, get excited with me!!!
should have this baby in a week or two, fun!! come on people, get excited with me!!!
Last edited:
Is this a support group?
Hi, my name is John. I ordered a Diver V2, but will have to wait quite a while for the Helenic Post to get it delivered to me in the US.
Hi, my name is John. I ordered a Diver V2, but will have to wait quite a while for the Helenic Post to get it delivered to me in the US.
this interests me, but what does not is the resistance-nonresistance wire. is that necessary? how much extra wire is there going to the connectors? it doesnt seem like much. would there be any downside to maybe just bumping up the voltage to compensate? would anything get real hot?
some carto tanks look really nice, convenient, and hold a lot of juice. I just hate cartos.
some carto tanks look really nice, convenient, and hold a lot of juice. I just hate cartos.
I got one of these a week or so ago. I didn't pull the bundled premade coil apart (it was already in the ceramic cup with the positive lead trimmed down) but as far as I could tell it appeared to be one continuous piece of wire. In other words, I don't even think Atmistique themselves bothered with different types of wire.
From what I've heard, using a single strand of resistance wire works but causes additional heating and the extra heat can possibly crack the ceramic. You do get an extra ceramic cup, so either they're prone to breakage (probably when trying to insert or remove, I had a hard time with insertion) or they have a lot of them breaking apart after heating.
All I've got on hand is 32 AWG Kanthal so I'm going to try twisting 2 strands together for the "non-resistance" leads. It will be a challenge getting them through the holes, but if I can manage that it ought to work fine.
Off-topic, but mine also arrived without the engraved "A" on the tube. So much for things looking extra fancy...
I'm back to correct myself. Using non-resistance wire for the leads makes a HUGE difference! Also, I'm certain I was wrong about the pre-made coil. It had to be dual-wire. It's just hard to see the tiny little knots on an old crusty used coil =)
After my last post, I tried a coil with a single piece of 32 AWG Kanthal. It was not even close to the same as the premade coil, with muted flavor and inferior vapor production. Boosting the voltage had little effect. In the mean time, the bottom metal cap of my tank was heating up much faster than before. If you use resistance wire for the leads there's just too much heat being wasted away from the coil where you want it.
Fast forward to today. I made a coil out of a single strand of 32 Kanthal, but I used twisted double strands for the leads (effectively cutting the leads' resistance in half, to mimic non-resistance wire). It was a bit tricky feeding the twisted leads through the holes in the ceramic and the center pin had a tough time going in but it worked and what a difference it makes.
I've got a spool of 32 awg pure nickel wire on the way to make proper single-stranded non-resistance leads, but in the mean time this is working great. The moral of the story is using non-resistance wire is important. If you're worried about difficulty setting it up, I can tell you that and it's still easier to set up and get working correctly than my cobra genesis atty.
After my last post, I tried a coil with a single piece of 32 AWG Kanthal. It was not even close to the same as the premade coil, with muted flavor and inferior vapor production. Boosting the voltage had little effect. In the mean time, the bottom metal cap of my tank was heating up much faster than before. If you use resistance wire for the leads there's just too much heat being wasted away from the coil where you want it.
Fast forward to today. I made a coil out of a single strand of 32 Kanthal, but I used twisted double strands for the leads (effectively cutting the leads' resistance in half, to mimic non-resistance wire). It was a bit tricky feeding the twisted leads through the holes in the ceramic and the center pin had a tough time going in but it worked and what a difference it makes.
I've got a spool of 32 awg pure nickel wire on the way to make proper single-stranded non-resistance leads, but in the mean time this is working great. The moral of the story is using non-resistance wire is important. If you're worried about difficulty setting it up, I can tell you that and it's still easier to set up and get working correctly than my cobra genesis atty.
Last edited:
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
