Coiling

[Arignumb]

I've been experimenting with a lot of different coils and builds here and there but I guess a couple of recurring questions are:

I know the "wider" the channel for the electricity to flow, the lower the resistance (26g being thicker than 28g, twisted being thicker than not, parallel being thicker than not, dual coils being wider than singles, etc.). These might sound like stupid questions that are pretty common sense but

1) what exactly is the physics of the vapor being so different in terms of heat from say a .3 ohm dual coil where the coils aren't touching and a .3 ohm dual coil 2-strand parallel? and

2) how does coiling without letting the coils touch and coiling with them touching, say microcoils, differ?

3) On the topic of wicking, does having a large cotton cloud make vapor production different from having a smaller one? and

4) how does a tighter fit of the wick in the coil differ from a looser fit?

I don't know; I started off with .9-1ohm single micro coils and lately I've really been liking the 2-strand parallel single clocking in around .6 and the sleeper dual at around .5.

 

[itskohler]

From my limited knowledge...
1. Vapor production isnt just about ohms. Its about how effective you can get juice to travel through your wick and make contact with the coil. The larger the surface area, the more juice can vaporize, the more vapor will be produced.
2. kinda the same answer as above.
3. That all depends on what atty you're using and what type of coils. I have never tried using cotton clouds, normal wicking works just fine for me. Maybe someone with more experience can help explain that for you.
4. This depends on your juice. Loose is generally better than tight, for the purpose of moving juice along your wick to the atty. Think of your wick as a highway. Too much congestion and everything slows down, not enough room to travel and you can get juice fast enough.

 

[dice57]

I've been experimenting with a lot of different coils and builds here and there but I guess a couple of recurring questions are:

I know the "wider" the channel for the electricity to flow, the lower the resistance (26g being thicker than 28g, twisted being thicker than not, parallel being thicker than not, dual coils being wider than singles, etc.). These might sound like stupid questions that are pretty common sense but

1) what exactly is the physics of the vapor being so different in terms of heat from say a .3 ohm dual coil where the coils aren't touching and a .3 ohm dual coil 2-strand parallel? and

Main advantage of micro coils that are tension wrapped, one gets damn near exact consistency and ohms per loop, making hitting target ohms easy. More consistent, repeatable coils. Free hand wrapped coils lack the consistency and generally need space to avoid hot spots.

2) how does coiling without letting the coils touch and coiling with them touching, say microcoils, differ?

Tension wrapped micro coils are generally more consistent, and the wires touching loops, if consistent, will help promote the total efficiency of the coil. Further by pulsing and squeezing coils, one can achieve an excellent heating from the center out. When using multiple coils, one can synchronize their consistent heating. Squeezing the pulsed coils together, also drops the resistance slightly, causing a faster heat up, so by tuning each coil, can get a more optimal vape.

3) On the topic of wicking, does having a large cotton cloud make vapor production different from having a smaller one? and

Wicking is a two point ordeal. First the density of the fiber through or around the coil has to be deveined. All fibers have slightly different properties and characteristic. Also keeping the fibers straight going through coil, often improves wicking potential. The other area of focus, is the wick density through the wicking ports, channels or juice decks. To much or to little can be the difference between a Damn Fine vape, and burning ones wick.

Wicking issues usually always come down to, play with it till it vapes right.

4) how does a tighter fit of the wick in the coil differ from a looser fit?

Both to tight or to loose will cause dry hit issues and charring ones wick. To much, one chokes of the fiber, to little and one can't wick enough juice to vape at watts desired, just right, try and remember how much it was.

like said previously, all fibers are different, for example, Rayon tends to contract after being broke in and vaped for a time, so one needs a slightly higher density going through the coil, Ramie fiber, on the other hand, will firm up a tad, like a muscle pumping up with blood, cotton will swell a tad, and to much in the wrong place can promote flooding, Hemp fiber will expand, but tis hard to choke off.

I don't know; I started off with .9-1ohm single micro coils and lately I've really been liking the 2-strand parallel single clocking in around .6 and the sleeper dual at around .5.

far as the whole //, twisted, timey whimey stuff, heck have done most of it, but when it comes right down to it, a consistent tension wrapped micro coils, built for the target ohm of ones APV, is a tough vape to beat, and frak, sure cuts down on the build time

Instead of doing twisted's I now select the gauge of wire, that will maximize my length of coil, while maintain the target ohms of the build. Though do have some ribbon to play with if I ever get bored.

Hopefully haven't added to the confusion, most everything will be discovered as one progresses on their vape path.


Vape long and Prosper.!!!

 

[Kaezziel]

Not much to add, 'cause Dice pretty much covered it... listen to the man, and he won't steer you wrong.
I'm pretty much around the same point that he is... I've done twisted wires and what-not, but now I just pick a bigger gauge or a different wire. 28g Kanthal for my Orchid RTA most of the time... 26g or 24g Nichrome for my drippers. I almost always run dual coils... I ALWAYS wick with rayon... it's just what works for me. You may prefer twisting 3 strands of 30g Kanthal.... everybody has their own opinion, and if it differs from mine, then it's wrong...

 

[Arignumb]

oh man thanks man! I learned and took in a lot from that post; it was really helpful

 

[dice57]

Always a pleasure to help out.

 

[jbnuke]

Hmmm I run 26 gage 8 wraps around 3/64 on my orchid... dual coil setup for around .5ohm.. and I can run that up aroud 50 watts no problem. Cotton wick here. A parallel coil does essentially the same thing as a dual coil setup. Cuts the total resistance in half. So what I have done in the past to get a good heat flux with thinner wire is run a dual parallel coil setup, which is gets you the same resistance as running a quad coil setup in a smaller area. What really makes the difference is heat flux. Its much harder to figure out, but is really the most important factor. Its the amount of heat produced at any given point along the coil. Too high and the liquid scorches. Too low and it wont vaporize efficiently. There is a calculator online that can account for that, sorry I dont have a link for it. Does that make any sense?

 

[wshanncap]

I've been experimenting with a lot of different coils and builds here and there but I guess a couple of recurring questions are:

I know the "wider" the channel for the electricity to flow, the lower the resistance (26g being thicker than 28g, twisted being thicker than not, parallel being thicker than not, dual coils being wider than singles, etc.). These might sound like stupid questions that are pretty common sense but

1) what exactly is the physics of the vapor being so different in terms of heat from say a .3 ohm dual coil where the coils aren't touching and a .3 ohm dual coil 2-strand parallel? and

2) how does coiling without letting the coils touch and coiling with them touching, say microcoils, differ?

3) On the topic of wicking, does having a large cotton cloud make vapor production different from having a smaller one? and

4) how does a tighter fit of the wick in the coil differ from a looser fit?

I don't know; I started off with .9-1ohm single micro coils and lately I've really been liking the 2-strand parallel single clocking in around .6 and the sleeper dual at around .5.

I played around with different coils a bit. Still do if I get bored. But really the elaborate builds aren't going to effect flavor much. The heat does effect the flavor but it is still a matter of ohms, watts and volts. I stick with a simple micro coil most of the time. 28G around a 3/32 drill. I started coil building with 24G around a 1/8 drill but switched to 28 because of the size of the coil compared to the deck. But in answer to your questions: 1 - I'm not sure. 2 - If I remember correctly, the coils touching increases contact area giving a faster ramp up time. 3 - More cotton only equals more cloud if you don't have enough cotton to wick properly to start with. Excess cotton is just a waste of cotton. 4 - If the cotton is too loose in the coil you you won't have enough juice on the coil and the hit will be weak. If it is too tight it will choke off the flow and give you dry hits. You want the cotton to slide through the coil with just a little tension...not enough to bend the coil or tear the cotton, but enough to feel a slight resistance as you pull it through. Hope this helps.

 

[dice57]

Hmm, frak, think I'm running 24 gauge in the Orchid, but then coils are vertical mounted, and it's the V3 clone base, with the Authentic chimney, in the Confun 30 mm tank, think I got that right

 

[Kaezziel]

Hmm, frak, think I'm running 24 gauge in the Orchid, but then coils are vertical mounted, and it's the V3 clone base, with the Authentic chimney, in the Confun 30 mm tank, think I got that right

So it's the FrankenOrchid, then... or somethin' like that...
I've got 28g duals, horizontal mounted, 0.4 ohms, rayon wicks in the Tobeco V2 version... I haven't done anything else with the chimney or tank replacement, just using it as it was the day I got it.... still a great little tank though! Just goes through juice like a fat kid goes through Twinkies

 

[dice57]

Truth be told, the Orchid was my first Authentic major disappointment. Felt it was unfinished and poorly thought out. The build chamber was to large of diameter for a 22 mm base, frak, my Magma drippers hold more juice than the Orchid, unmodified. Found only a frakenVersion was the only way to make it vape acceptable, or something like that. Frak, took 3 weeks just to find the right size allen wrench for it. 4 months later of beating it around, parts for to other rigs, and it's vape acceptable, and somewhat vape worthy

But then, am an old fashioned kind of guy, believe one should at least get dinner and a kiss before getting screwed, or at least chocolates.



Vape long and Prosper.!!!

 

[Kaezziel]

I never tried the authentic version... Tobeco V2 had deeper channels and bigger airflow, so I went with that... you're right about capacity though. I can go through 3 tanks before lunch

Some day I may bother with putting a KF glass on it, mod the chimney... bore out the air holes... I dunno... It works well enough for what it is, makes a damn tasty vape that outlasts most of my drippers. I may just leave it alone and use it for what it's worth... only time will tell, because rarely do I leave anything bone stock... I pretty much look at everything with the attitude of "Good start... but I can make it better!"