best mechanical mod

[ShapeNvape]

As the header tells i search for the "best" mech mod.

I haven't had one by myself but i got experince with siglei 100w , wismec rx200, vaporshark dna200. rda , rta

I was searching for a tube mod, and could'nt find any that was fitting me.
when i started to look into mechanical mods. I have researched a lot, both about safety and which stuff that upvotes a mechanical mod for me.

First of all, its new! A whole lot of learning and experince to get.

The price range is about 1-300 if it really is the MOD!

have to be tube mod

Top vent or other functional vent system.

Copper mod.

Firing button, would be nice if bottom placed. As i like the simple look of the mechs.

Minimal voltage drop.

I have as said researched a lot, and think i'm ready to try a mech mod.
Of course, nothing crazy to a start.

And i like some advice on batteries, what you prefer? Where is your sweet spot between AMP output and Mah.
i want as high amp, but still some mah for lasting, so i don't go in low zone all time and have to recharge before discharging it. What i found until now is the Sony Vtc batteries should be quite good.
And what are your experince about companies trying to get their amp limit up on the batteries which might not match with what the batteries are capable of in real life.


And what are your experince mech vs vw/vv considering vape amount/clouds

And is the Hybrids better? I'm aware of the issue that they use different atomizer but some of them seem to have an adaptar or such for 510 with no protruding pin.


Please share any info that you think could help a new mech mod owner, whom want the best experince with it. Which means both clouds/flavour but also more important safety.

 

[sonicbomb]

ECF member Baditude has a blog entry on the subject, which would be a great starting point.
(8) A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod | E-Cigarette Forum

If you intend to use a coil below 0.3 ohms then the Sony VTC4 would be a great choice. Above the that the Samsung 25R or the LG HG4 are both great 20 amp CDR cells.
Yes some companies inflate the spec on their re-wraps. Take a look at ECF member Moochs blog for battery information
Mooch's Recommended Batteries | E-Cigarette Forum
List of Battery Tests | E-Cigarette Forum

"Hybrid style" mechs do not offer any significant reduction in voltage drop and are more about aesthetics. They also have some potential safety issues, you need to make sure the atty you use hem with has a fixed positive 510 pin that protrudes at least 1mm.

I'm sure others can chip in with some recommendations for a copper mech.

 

[ShapeNvape]

They are aesthetics, i fell a bit in love with the design of the tugboat v2, but i think i will go for a normal, as i dont feel like it brings what im searching.

and i think i will go with the sony, i like builds around 0.2 right now but that is on a vw/vv device.

And lots of thanks for the informative answer, i'll have a good read when i get home !

 

[sonicbomb]

I just wanted to add that there is no such thing as a 'best' mech, only the one that is best for you. Copper has benefits of conductivity, but has the disadvantage of being soft and easily tarnished. I tend to go for SS for this reason. My personal favorite is a Stingray X clone which has a copper inner, and a SS outer (best of both) and a floating 510, is compact and has a very low voltage drop. Authentics are around $250 if you can find one, clones are around $25.

 

[Vaslovik]

For my part I'm hooked on Poldiacs and have 4 of them. I've had a lot of mechs, and the Poldiacs put them all in the shade.

 

[ShapeNvape]

Thanks, yeah thats why i put it like "best", i guess most of it come down to preference, but i guess there is different between the quality of the different products.

Again thanks Sonicbomb i will look at it, and you gave me one more thing to think about with the SS.

Vaslovik which one is your favourite of them?

 

[Ryedan]

and i think i will go with the sony, i like builds around 0.2 right now but that is on a vw/vv device.

Build resistance does not relate to battery amp requirements in VW mode. Resistance does affect battery amp draw in VV mode and mechanical mods.

Ultimately though it's all about the watts. In mech mods resistance and battery voltage define the watts you're vaping at, but resistance is key. In VV mode resistance combined with the voltage you set defines the watts output. Battery voltage also affects battery amp draw in VV mode but most of it is due to voltage set and resistance.

Read sonicbomb's first link for some great info on how resistance affects battery amp draw in a mech mod. Sony makes various batteries and they are not created equal. Sonicbomb's second and third links will I think explain that much better than I could

Hope you enjoy your journey into mech mod land

 

[ShapeNvape]

The first part i'm into with that mech have a maximum output of 4,2V that and then your coils resistance defines the wattage and Amp, its here i have to be sure that i dont over do my batteries. Please correct me if wrong.

I will read up on the batteries, when i get home, seems like there i something i have missed

 

[Vaslovik]

The first part i'm into with that mech have a maximum output of 4,2V that and then your coils resistance defines the wattage and Amp, its here i have to be sure that i dont over do my batteries. Please correct me if wrong.

I will read up on the batteries, when i get home, seems like there i something i have missed

Generally you can tell when your batteries are getting low from the vape you are getting. It is, however, best to have a 510 voltage checker handy. I carry one with me for work, along with 8 Sony VTC4 18650's. As for voltage drop it's not just how you wind your coil, there is some inherent voltage loss in the switch of a mech, and depending on which mech it can be higher or lower. In a high quality mech it's negligible, in the lower quality clone it can be significant.

My first mech was a Sigelei 24, and it was pretty bad that way. With the Poldiacs there is so little voltage drop that they still hit hard down to 3.6 volts and even lower, so you have to be watching that.

 

[sonicbomb]

The first part i'm into with that mech have a maximum output of 4.2V that and then your coils resistance defines the wattage and Amp, its here i have to be sure that i dont over do my batteries. Please correct me if wrong.

The resistance of the coil controls the amount of amperage drawn from the battery, and therefore the wattage delivered to it. Calculate the maximum amps used, based on a fully charged battery at 4.2 volts. As the charge decreases, so will the amount of power and amperage used.

I = amps V = volts R = resistance P = watts

To find the amp draw use I=V/R
Eg. divide 4.2v by 0.5Ω = 8.4 amps

To find the wattage use P=V²/R
Eg. 4.2v multiplied by 4.2v divided by 0.5Ω = 35 watts

Maths doesn't get much simpler than this, you can also model it in Steam-engine


Always check the resistance of a new build on a resistance meter or a mod with one built in to make sure you got the resistance you were aiming for, and that you don't have a short.
Recheck this intermittently as things can shift around in the atty over time and use.
A mech has zero safety features, so don't get complacent.

 

[Fyla]

If you can live with SS then i would recommend Vapourart GP mods.
They have one of the best + pins (GPin), simple and perfection. Switches are top notch. Overall great devices

 

[ShapeNvape]

The resistance of the coil controls the amount of amperage drawn from the battery, and therefore the wattage delivered to it. Calculate the maximum amps used, based on a fully charged battery at 4.2 volts. As the charge decreases, so will the amount of power and amperage used.

I = amps V = volts R = resistance P = watts

To find the amp draw use I=V/R
Eg. divide 4.2v by 0.5Ω = 8.4 amps

To find the wattage use P=V²/R
Eg. 4.2v multiplied by 4.2v divided by 0.5Ω = 35 watts

Maths doesn't get much simpler than this, you can also model it in Steam-engine


Always check the resistance of a new build on a resistance meter or a mod with one built in to make sure you got the resistance you were aiming for, and that you don't have a short.
Recheck this intermittently as things can shift around in the atty over time and use.
A mech has zero safety features, so don't get complacent.

Yes ohms law, i read that you have to stop at some point, when your battery loses power and goes down in V, but how low? Or is it clear by the amount of vape? So i wont discharge it.

Lets say i make a coilbuild 0.3 ohm resistance, i try it on my device and it says 0.26, so it is safe assuming i got batteries that would hold amp for this, i guess its around 18-19 amps. But i will calculate it in real life. After checking it on my other device, that there were no shorts and right ohm. I should be able to vape it on the mech, now you say the build change. I havent experinced this before, any examples? Maybe im to much of a freak that likes to build coils too often and try new builds

Anyway really thanks to you Sonicbomb, i feel like im ready to get a mech mod after you gave me some new information and confirmed what i knew was correct !

 

[ShapeNvape]

If you can live with SS then i would recommend Vapourart GP mods.
They have one of the best + pins (GPin), simple and perfection. Switches are top notch. Overall great devices

Is it worth to get the real? Or should i just go for a clone

 

[ShapeNvape]

And damn this gp mods looks sweet, which should i choose

 

[Brandon David]

I love a good mech. In your search, pay special attention to the reviews on switches. I have authentics and clones and with any of them, the switch is the make it or break it. Crunchy switches annoy me to no end. Personally, I like a recessed spring switch with a soft throw and no lock function. Some people prefer magnets. Some like having a lock. It's a rabbit hole until you find what you like.

 

[Completely Average]

Is it worth to get the real? Or should i just go for a clone

I almost always recommend finding a good quality clone for a first mech mod. The reason is simple, many people try mechs and decide later that they just don't like dealing with things like voltage drop, an inconsistent vape, and having to carry around spare batteries. If you spend less than $50 on a clone and decide you just don't like using mechs as much as you thought you would that's not going to be as painful to your wallet as spending $200+ on an authentic. Also, if you try the clone and really like mechs then it's a lot easier for you to make the decision to shell out a couple of hundred for a high end authentic mod.

 

[milandjikic]

After almost 3 years of using only mech mods, a true hybrids or classic ones with 510 connection i have to advise you. Do not buy a mech mod without locking mechanism. Had couple of them and no matter how carefully i treated them, how cautious i was carrying them around, each one ended up firing in my pocket. Never had any serious issues with that since my resistances are anywhere from 0.7 up to 1.3, dependable on the type of atomizer i would use in that moment, but if you are a cloud chaser, you can injure your self seriously if similar thing happens to you.
Mech mods without a locking mechanism should be banned for good IMHO. I had only one that never fired on me, some old thing from Vape4me, and the mod was called Morph2. But that thing had a top switch with buttong so stiff that you fingers would start hurting you after 5 minute usage, and the volt drop was just huge if not cleaned at least once a week lol.

 

[ShapeNvape]

im not much after the lock bottom, as i for rule never have it my pocket, if i take my mod with me its in my hand on a space between my seats in the car.

I really love huge clouds. And about cleaning of the mods anything speciel?
or easy to do with.

True about the money, but i dont know the quality of a clone, but i honestly rather pay for something that works, that something there always is a little issue here and there that just will annoy the hell out of me. But i dont know the quality difference if it is worth.

 

[WhiskeyTango]

Check out the Rig Mod with the Roughneck RDA. I just picked one up in copper and it is amazing. It is a true hybrid and is very well made. I've seen the 1:1 clones go for around $40 and are also very nice. The Stingray X is also one of my favorites.

 

[joeybear]

I have a lot of mech mods...prolly 40-50 authentics and 50+ clones. Out of all of them, there are maybe 10 or so I wouldn't recommend and of those, they're prolly 50/50 authentics and clones. Clones work just fine, for the most part, so don't let anyone tell you differently.