Battery Question

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IMFire3605

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May 3, 2013
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Generally Eleaf products, the vendor will a lot of times support a 30day warranty after date of purchase, after which, a device is under the manufacturer 90day warranty, which would be Eleaf you would need to contact.

Most batteries though are rated for 150 to 200 full charges, mod shutoff voltage we will say 3.0v to 4.2v, half charges, from say 3.7v to 4.2v will net about 250 to 400 recharges depending on how badly you abuse them. Eleaf iStick mods /w internal batteries with a lot of abuse, running full power and recharging a couple times every 1 to 2 days takes notches out of the mod battery life. The fact you got about 4months out of the mod, you got decent life, thus why I myself I do have a couple mods with internal batteries I barely break 15watts on them for out and about, after that, 90% of my mods use replaceable batteries, battery gives out the mod is still good, just put in another battery. I would be looking at a new purchase, maybe a Kanger Sub-box/Top-Box Mini, Sigelei 75w, Wismec just released a new 75w mod that is pretty.
 

MortisEx

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May 24, 2016
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Battery life also depends on the cycles you put them through. Flattening batteries is bad so if you run it all the way to cutoff every day this could be contributing. Also temp plays a big part in life, leaving it in a hot car or in direct sunlight on a table might also cut down the cycles. But it might be defective or old stock.
If you are willing to give it a go I saw a vid of someone replacing the batt with an 18650 MJ1 which is a 10A 3500mAh Panasonic battery. Looked pretty easy.
 

Baditude

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If you are willing to give it a go I saw a vid of someone replacing the batt with an 18650 MJ1 which is a 10A 3500mAh Panasonic battery. Looked pretty easy.
Not Recommended. :nah:

That's an ICR chemistry battery, which have been obsolete for vaping purposes for at least three years. Also, because of its low amp limit, its not a good choice for a variable wattage mod. Also not a safe-chemistry battery. Lots of reasons NOT to do the above.

You can see all sorts of people doing all sorts of things on YouTube videos. That doesn't mean they are safe or smart.
 
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ShepherdMom69

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Jul 4, 2014
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Not Recommended. :nah:

That's an ICR chemistry battery, which have been obsolete for vaping purposes for at least three years. Also, because of its low amp limit, its not a good choice for a variable wattage mod. Also not a safe-chemistry battery. Lots of reasons NOT to do the above.
Thank you. Thats out of my league anyway....

Heard back from MFS. No warranty so its junk. I will add it to the pile of vape equipment that was a bust. Been off cigs for quite awhile guess its time to kick the vape habit now. Wish me luck.
 

MortisEx

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May 24, 2016
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Depending on your electronic skill and experience and tools basic alterations are so easy and pretty safe. But everyone is different. You say it is a waste of time, I would find a sense of accomplishment from both completing the repair and reducing wastage and thereby helping the environment. I like fixing things, probably why I am a tradesman.
 
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Eskie

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Lots of great choices at reasonable prices these days for mods with replaceable batteries. Eleaf's very popular and affordable Pico offers 75W with a replaceable battery. Even manufacturers who typically avoid replaceables are putting some on the market, like an Innokin Coolfire 4 with a replaceable 18650 battery recently released.

Besides, if you only have one mod and it takes replaceable batteries, you can swap out the used battery for charging and replace with a freshly charged battery without waiting.
 
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MortisEx

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May 24, 2016
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Sydney Australia
Not Recommended. :nah:

That's an ICR chemistry battery, which have been obsolete for vaping purposes for at least three years. Also, because of its low amp limit, its not a good choice for a variable wattage mod. Also not a safe-chemistry battery. Lots of reasons NOT to do the above.

You can see all sorts of people doing all sorts of things on YouTube videos. That doesn't mean they are safe or smart.
Regardless of their choice of batt the method isnt difficult and you could use any batt you liked such as a 30Q, HG2 or a 25r or HB4 if you wanted to have lots of amps.
Also I heard mooch saying if you are careful then ICRs give a better power curve for mechs with much less drop before cutoff. I'll watch the "never heard of them" again as he may have been referring to a specific ICR model. What is noob safe is not always the best. Just like you wouldnt rec a beginner driver get a 911 turbo or a GSXR.
 
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